This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Honestly that’s something I would be okay with. If everything checks out I have the option to resell and fund my current LJ78 or keep it and try to modify it to make it my daily rig! It’s just hard to decide between keeping the LJ78 or selling even though it’s heavily underpowered and not so reliable with the stock motor.
Thanks for your expertise. Yeah it’s a smoking deal if everything checks out. I can see little bit of rust on the foot panel area but I’m not sure if that can be removed. What would be a good offer for this guy... $9000?
So I just communicated with the guy and he said he’s not willing to take offers at the moment until next week so unless I am willing to pay asking price he doesn’t want me to come. I said I’ll still check it out and pay if it’s good to just hold my spot, so fingers crossed.
Assuming it's not rusty, i would give him what he's asking.
Yeah I think as long as drive terrain, engine, body has no rust I’m think the same. If it doesn’t work out I can end up selling for little more or the same price since it got a lot of interest at the $9800 mark.
i'd worry most about the frame for rust. Body rust is bad too, but frame rot is the worst.
Yes for sure, I meant to say that but yeah frame rust I’m not taking. Little body rust might be worth it.
bets of luck man. post up here if you get it. I have and LX myself and other than a couple things the previous owner lied about, i love it. One big deal that i'll warn you about is the viscous coupling. I don't know that this happens often, but mine was seized. Here's one way to check. on flat road, durn the wheel and let off the brake. the truck should move freely. Mine did not, it was like someone was pressing the brakes when the wheel was turned. I ended up having to remove myf ront drive shaft andf lock the center diff (which is how i'm driving it now) until i can get it fixed. it's a huge pain.
thanks for your advice! What is viscous coupling if you don’t mind? Also to check it do I need to spin the wheel on drive while holding down the break and let go and see how the car moves?
it's like a LSD inside the center diff. it's unnecessary and most years of that specific transfer case didn't' even come with one (like in the 100 series). if seized, people usually just remove them altogether (which i will be doing as well, when i have time). I did not need to do that to check on mine as it was VERY obviously seized in my case. i couldn't turn my wheel more than 5 degrees or so before the truck would stop. Your mileage may vary. when turned to lock, if you hit the gas on pavement, you'll hear the tires grunt and squeal if the VC is seized. I don't know how common this issue is, i am only making a big deal out of it because mine was seized when i got my truck. The on you're looking at has half the mileage as mine so hopefully it's a non-issue for you!
I have the same truck (including color) that I purchased this year (similar mileage, but in even better shape and with mods). If the odo is showing Km, the lockers engage and there’s no rust, just buy it. Shoot him an offer, but I wouldn’t haggle. It will become someone else’s win if you don’t buy it.
