Union Joint rear heater riser pipe thing ???? Removal & leaking (1 Viewer)

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This might just be slated as nothing to worry about? So small, and i cannot tell if its the air rail connection or that head bolt leaking? Should either leak?
Any ideas on fixing that bent threaded connection? Maybe find a tap that size? Thanks again....View attachment 2437041View attachment 2437045
When you did the valve adjustment did you replace the cover gasket?
 
Regarding the leak...I’d keep an eye on it, but from whaypt I can see i your picture, I’m not sure I would be concerned. Maybe tighten the rail up a bit and the same with the head bolt.

Regarding the out of shape pipe, I’m thinking that the thread sealer will take care of any small leaks that may occur. Keep an eye on that too.
 
For the out of round pipe, you can try some schedule 40 steel pipe threaded at the same pitch. Especially if it is a tapered pitch you might be able to get it started then the pipe should push it back into shape. Another option would be to put the piece in a vice and try to push it back to round.

The parts are each called a "joint or union". The long 3-way one is joint no. 1 and the smaller 2-way one is joint no. 2. Both parts are unavailable new from toyota. Joint no. 2 is used for the rear heater, so if you don't need that, you might be able to replace joint no. 1 with a straight pipe that will fit.

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When you did the valve adjustment did you replace the cover gasket?

Yes I replaced the cover gasket and the 4 washer gasket things on each bolt. Does not appear to be leaking around the head cover.

Regarding the leak...I’d keep an eye on it, but from whaypt I can see i your picture, I’m not sure I would be concerned. Maybe tighten the rail up a bit and the same with the head bolt.

Regarding the out of shape pipe, I’m thinking that the thread sealer will take care of any small leaks that may occur. Keep an eye on that too.

I am a bit concerned because the the pipe will not even start threading back in.

For the out of round pipe, you can try some schedule 40 steel pipe threaded at the same pitch. Especially if it is a tapered pitch you might be able to get it started then the pipe should push it back into shape. Another option would be to put the piece in a vice and try to push it back to round.

The parts are each called a "joint or union". The long 3-way one is joint no. 1 and the smaller 2-way one is joint no. 2. Both parts are unavailable new from toyota. Joint no. 2 is used for the rear heater, so if you don't need that, you might be able to replace joint no. 1 with a straight pipe that will fit.

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Thanks for the info. I will try the steel pipe and vise technique before i give up on it. If i delete the rear heater or keep it, can i use brass plumbing pipe and fittings to replace the original or will that have some adverse effect with the coolant? (corrosion....etc). Once a short time ago I saw that the straight joint #87205 above, was still available from Toyota. Might have been one of those, in stock but not things to?

Thanks again for all the input everyone.
 
Thanks for the info. I will try the steel pipe and vise technique before i give up on it. If i delete the rear heater or keep it, can i use brass plumbing pipe and fittings to replace the original or will that have some adverse effect with the coolant? (corrosion....etc). Once a short time ago I saw that the straight joint #87205 above, was still available from Toyota. Might have been one of those, in stock but not things to?

Thanks again for all the input everyone.


If all else fails and you decide to delete the rear heater, this part from @ToyotaMatt can replace joint #1. YOu'll need to get a new piece of heater hose with a 90 deg bend and longer legs to clear the valve cover over to the valve on the firewall.


When I got rid of my rear heater, I just took joint #2 out and plugged the hole in #1 with a brass pipe plug. You may not have this option as your hole is f"ed up. The part above is a cleaner option. There are a couple of other steps that are outlined if you search "rear heater".

But, you may want to try the classifieds or cruiser parts for a used joint #1. There's no good reason to delete your rear heat over this, unless you really want to. My rear heater hard lines were rotted and leaking, so it was more of a pressing issue.
 
Look carefully at this pic.

the seal of coolant at the articulated Joint is made from a OEM o-ring ......

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@ToyotaMatt This is parts porn. I like it......so is that screw valve for bleeding off air (burping) or for isolating the rear heater circuit? I can't resist at this point. This stuff makes me happy!
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The threaded portion is a manual shut-off for summer time .

( this is a fully-restored / full functioning set up .......fyi )




i specialize in " Unicorn Parts Porn " :cool:

this is NOT any type of burping valve ?


that's me after a long day re-keying 60/62 locks :beer::beer::beer:



this is my XXX rated stuff here : :D

PM me please if i can further help ?

kindly matt .........


:cheers:

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@ToyotaMatt Are these said parts for sale on your site? I have not tried fixing my bent portion as i got distracted by the oil galley hole fix. It was easier than getting that Union/Joint No.1 pipe out without the right tool! I also need to decide on rear heater. So if i keep it stock i would get that union with the cut off valve, if i delete rear heater would i use the 90 pictured above? THANKs!
 
@ToyotaMatt Are these said parts for sale on your site? I have not tried fixing my bent portion as i got distracted by the oil galley hole fix. It was easier than getting that Union/Joint No.1 pipe out without the right tool! I also need to decide on rear heater. So if i keep it stock i would get that union with the cut off valve, if i delete rear heater would i use the 90 pictured above? THANKs!


YES , all the Joints and Unions are ,

Please send me a PM to further discuss

thanks
 
I ended up getting the horizontal rear heater joint back into the main no. 1 union yesterday. I was convinced the whole time it would not work, but after about a dozen different slight bends in my vise, i go it round enough to thread the other piece in. I just kept checking the roundness with the outlet hose end of the pipe and made small adjustments. Is the corrosion on the top end of the union something to worry about? Can i seal both thread connections with the high temp permatex sealer? What about the bvsv valve on the thermostat housing? Thank you all again for your help on this fairly insignificant task. Now i am debating the rear heater removal just to simplify and minimize future hose replacement.
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Looks good man. Good job.

Yes, I would use the sealant you have pictured on all the threads where coolant water will be.

That corrosion on the top of the vertical pipe is not a big deal...but still, I would take a wire wheel to it and then apply a dab of Anti-Sieze to it. Not absolutely necessary but a good idea.
 
Fine sand paper is what I used, emory 600 w/ oil (can be bought at an Ace). You want to take it off not burnish it w/ a wire wheel.
 
In the process of cleaning/sanding the pipe ends in various places. Thanks for the tip, it works well. I wire brushed the crap out of my wrist trying to make that thermostat housing cover glistening. Wish i had a blasting cabinet. Decided to keep the rear heater and switch out the two pipes directly under it. I should have all the hoses done soon and my first water-pump, thermostat, fan clutch replacement.
 
@FJ Noob 😂 I just read your post on that subject. I have removed every single hose, and many of the pipes, on this truck now. It finally stopped spitting all over me, but not without a final blast from those rear heater hoses under the driver seat. I think it is officially drained. I am now in need of 5 more hoses to have them all. The hose treasure hunt is on.
I think I'll do the manifold when i pull the trigger on the 2nd great hose removal. Fortunately there will be alot less going back in on that one!
 
late last night , this found me while keypunching all over for any thing random

i ordered 4 , its japan , but not a Toyota , heck it looks Toyota !



all the tech threads pitches etc are toyota spot on ,,,,,,, :cool:




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