Builds 1978 US Market FJ40 Factory Restoration (4 Viewers)

[dmaddox]

I didn't calibrate my gauge, its a cheapie off Amazon.
What I did to ensure it was ballpark, was I used a labeled 1.0mm shim:

It worked perfectly on the knuckle shims (a .3/.5/1mm shim measured exactly that), so I assume it would work perfectly on the tub steel thickness.

I then tried to locate an unadulterated (no paint, grind, bend) flat area of the original steel:

Easier with the Reel Steel quarter:

 

[dmaddox]

I'll add there if a visible and by feel difference in the old vs new steel. Further (obviously due to thickness), it is much more difficult to bend and cut the real steel fender vs. oem steel. Additives, sources, and history of 1978 stuff? I don't know and won't pretend to.

 

[tls3601]

Great attention to detail. I believe between ‘78 and ‘79 thickness changed. Late 60 and early ‘70 stuff was thicker than ‘78 as well, but not sure what date things went to the ‘78 thickness, maybe ‘73 or ‘74? Perhaps John @Living in the Past can chime in on this

 

[dmaddox]

I know that e-73 used a thicker guage and higher quality steel, and that things changed sometime in 74. All based on chit chat - no real data.

For the sake of this project, Real Steel (While not a 100% bolt on - and requires some massaging/fitment) is a good quality and thicker steel than oem 1978 steel.

 

[waiting for time]

I'll add there if a visible and by feel difference in the old vs new steel. Further (obviously due to thickness), it is much more difficult to bend and cut the real steel fender vs. oem steel. Additives, sources, and history of 1978 stuff? I don't know and won't pretend to.

Just use a smaller hammer it will shape the metal easier. As long as you take it slow the modifications will be invisible

 

[dmaddox]

I’ll see what I can do. I’ve been incredibly picky and self critical on the project. So I’ll post up the results soon. On this and the rest of the steel work. Thank you for the constant tips and ideas guys.

 

[dmaddox]

Hello all - I am looking for a 2nd opinion on a measurement.

On the rear sill, the distance from inside wheel well to the center of the two bolts on the lower ambulance door latch, from both sides.

This to ensure the rear sill is positioned perfectly.

No rush and thank you.

 

[waiting for time]

Hello all - I am looking for a 2nd opinion on a measurement.

On the rear sill, the distance from inside wheel well to the center of the two bolts on the lower ambulance door latch, from both sides.

This to ensure the rear sill is positioned perfectly.

No rush and thank you.

Just measure the total with and the with of your ambulance doors.

 

[dmaddox]

I have that measurement. I'm just asking for someone to double check - no worries. I'll figure it out.

 

[tls3601]

I have a ‘10/78, will try and get that for you this weekend. Center points between the two bolts, correct? Tom

 

[waiting for time]

I have that measurement. I'm just asking for someone to double check - no worries. I'll figure it out.

I wouldn’t trust mine as it has been taken apart by the PO, not sure how accurate it is.

 

[dmaddox]

Some updates as I work with Real Steel quarters and rear sill.

1. The quarter panels (I have worked with oem, Cool Cruisers, eBay nonsense and now Real Steel) are the best I have worked with. The quality of the steel (thickness/strength) - the curve around the rear is spot on, etc..

There is *some* massaging that has to take place (as mentioned, fuel door) and the lip for the rear that comes around the rear sill. However, I am very happy with the quarter panels.

Here, is tacked in - yes, the rocker will get attention - it is a mess:

Finished:

Now, for the complaint. The rear sill, a 350$ item. It, too is quality made, the braces, welds, etc.. are all great. The problem is the curvature of the end pieces that support the quarter panels. How can the quarter panels themselves be literally a perfect curve, and yet from the same company, the rear sill be off by so much?

I mean....I am having to cut/shape/re-weld the whole @#$% thing. It isn't even close - off by almost an inch!? Here, I held it up to the OEM quarter:

Ugh. I first noticed this issue, when trying to fit it into the quarter on the right side, (the quarter in the photos above) - and it wouldn't even budge. I had to hack it up to get it to fit.

Look at how wonky this curvature is.....further, when you hold up the OEM piece (on the ground in the photo) it is clear how incorrect this rear sill is. I mean....I'm pretty upset here. In the end, I have to cut off these curves, and re-manufacture them so the curve is correct. GRRRRRRR. Totally unacceptable.

I can go on, complaining. But, I will stop here, after having shoved the tub back into the garage and called it a weekend.

 

[dmaddox]

More photos of the poor angles on the rear sill.

Grinding to see if I can get it close (Before I realized how "off" it was):

Here you can see the "hump" or the point at which the angle begins:

So, I had to cut to manipulate the curve, will bend to the curve, grind the top and bottom and re-weld.

Another shot of how "off" it is:

 

[SteveH]

That is off by a bunch. Perhaps someone from Real Steel can chime in here and explain?

 

[tls3601]

Wonder if you should contact Real Steel, I believe CCOT also sells the same items. They should do something for you.

 

[dmaddox]

I shot an email to Real Steel, to see if they'd address. The "horns" are not even close. It is crazy to think their quarters literally follow the curve perfectly, and the rear sill supports are this off.

 

[dmaddox]

For those in the market - or following this build. THIS is why that cruiser is 40-60k. The one that is done correctly, with correct parts. There is just no other way to go about it. I (once again) was naive in thinking I could be into a perfect cruiser for 30k. Is just not possible. Even those really nice 30k cruisers - if solid/original/complete - worth it. No question.

 

[dmaddox]

I'm going to go out on a limb here.....and say that most (if not all) body panel providers operate within a pretty fat range of tolerances (some more than others), assuming that if people are skilled enough to hack out and weld in body panels, they can tweak the parts, too, if/as required.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Morning Dallas

your complete linkage kit was mailed out yesterday

 

[dmaddox]

sweet - looking forward to the setup!!