1974 FJ40 just the DRIVER side front wheel wobble 🤔 HELP!!! (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jun 8, 2016
Threads
18
Messages
105
Location
BATON ROUGE LA
So I’m getting a wobbly front wheel JUST on the driver side. It happens at 40-55 mph but seems to go away after my speed keeps climbing. I’ve checked and snugged up everything externally and only have noticed a little play at the Sector Shaft where it comes out of the Manual Steering Box.
I’m running a 4” Rough Country lift with 5” extended shackles on BF Mud Turrain 33x10.5x15 on OEM Steel Wheels.

HELP!!!
 
Have you lost a wheel balance weight?
Swap front and rear tires and see if it goes away or moves.
Did you check for play in your wheel bearings?
 
Have you lost a wheel balance weight?
Swap front and rear tires and see if it goes away or moves.
Did you check for play in your wheel bearings?
I have checked wheel bearings and they are nice 👍🏻. I have also swapped wheels all
Make sure your U-bolts (axle tube to skid plate) are secure.

Rocky
Make sure your U-bolts (axle tube to skid plate) are secure.
I’ve check u bolts all good
Rocky
around and have even swapped lug bolts. Still shimmy’s 😬
 
Does the other side 'wobble' as well?

Have you checked the caster? With a 4" lift, it would need correction to get it back into spec. The extended shackles may or may not be enough.
 
knuckle bearings? tie rod end?

are you looking out at the wheel to see it "wobble" when you are driving? is some one else looking at the passenger side wheel?
both are tied together with the tie rod, I don't see how 1 can "wobble" without the other unless it is a bearing issue are wheel issue which you said were swapped around
 
3_puppies

I did look at driver wheel while driving and had my wife drive to look at P side wheel and maybe a slight wobble but nothing like the DR side wheel. I’ve checked the Tie rods GOOD. I haven’t looked at Casters. I will be rebuilding the Center Arm Box in hopes it’s the problem. I will keep you guys posted 😉

BTW is there anyway to tell if Caster Bearings are bad besides tearing into the knuckles 🤔
 
5” extended shackles
Your "wobble" will ultimately be tied to these shackles and the lack of caster.

Even after you correct the caster the upper shackle bushings struggle with the added leverage from the long shackles to resist side to side movement and will add to that “wobble” feel at speed.



Good luck and stay safe until you get it figured out.
 
J Mack

You are probably correct. I did put my OEM front shackles on and went for a drive “ still wobbles”🤨
Do I need to put Caster Shims facing front or back. I’m not sure? 🤔
 
Last edited:
Thick side to the rear to add caster.

This is incorrect, To add positive caster the thick end of the shim should be facing forward. The thick side of the shim towards the rear will move the caster reading towards the negative. Positive caster is what you want, it will allow the vehicle track down the road, give better driveablity and allows the steering wheel to recenter after a turn. B4 adding shims you should know what your caster is, otherwise it's just a guess. A lift and longer shackles can effect caster towards the neg, because of the arch of the spring and the location of the frt end on an FJ40 frt spring, also longer shackles have a tendency to will flatten the spring. Both rotates the axle towards neg caster.

If your getting a symptom of "death wobble", it could be many things like, loose u bolts, worn shackle bushings, loose shackle bolts, worn frt end parts, wheel balance or a combination of all the items.
 
Since it is on the driver's side, stick your head out the window and look for what else is moving that shouldn't be when it wobbles (or put a gopro camera on it). It is either associated with the spring / hanger / bushings / frame or the steering box and linkage or both. Having worn bushings on the sector shaft would do it. Don't try to tighten the adjuster nut on the box with worn out bushings. You may end up cracking the steering box casting.
 
Pin_Head

I have checked just about everything under the front (exceptions being the bushings where the springs mount to the frame and the knuckle bearings). As above the only two things that look bad are the Center Arm Box which is leaking grease and the Steering Box which is also leaking. I broke down the Center Arm Box today but everything looked great exception for the seal which was leaking. I will be putting a new rebuild kit in it as soon as it arrives in the mail. If that doesn’t do it I think my next move is going to be checking out the Steering Box.
 
The point is that you can’t tell what is bad just by looking at it. You have to look at it while it is wobbling and analyze the motion or get it up on a lift and push stuff around with a 6 foot pry bar.
 
It would set it on stands on the front at correct height for "level" and actually measure with angle finder to confirm or eliminate this condition.

Bob in CO
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom