New to the platform. Looking at a ‘77 (1 Viewer)

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It all depends on the price.. but while some see solid, I see a fair amount of rust repair. Doglegs, the entire rear sill. Looks like it's creeping into the rear quarters as well. $8k for a fair amount of rust (at least to these Southwest Colorado eyes) with an engine swap seems about right.

yes the rust is there for sure. It also has rust on bottoms of doors. It’s fairly significant on the drivers side door with a pinhole through the outer skin. I’m going tomorrow to give it another inspection, drive it and possibly bring it home.
 
I will only say on price that it is less than $8k. Once the deal is done I will elaborate.
 
$5k sounds more reasonable with the rust you say is present - good luck!
 
Here are the part number for the hub caps. 42621-60010 solid. 42621-60020 for the hole for free wheeling hubs. 42601-60072 for the wheels. Shop around for the best prices.

thank you!
 
I noticed the firewall VIN tag is not in the location ive seen in pictures. Did the location vary?
 
77 would be on the passenger front fender. Looking at the fender around where the battery sits should see it. Held on with two sheet metal screws.

great, thanks!
 
I'll start by saying that nothing about this scares me, in particular, it seems like an OK starting point if the price is right. I have a V8 converted 75 - it was less rusty, but I bought it with a VERY badly done V8 conversion, then re-did it correctly. I paid around 7k as I recall, but I probably overpaid for what I got. I wanted a relatively clean body (next to impossible on the East Coast) so I paid a premium for it. I'd rather fix mechanical stuff all day than do body work, but it will all depend on your degree of comfort with a welder.

The V8 looks like it's probably in the right place on this one - assuming the rest of the drive train is Toyota. Measure the distance between the corner of the passenger side valve cover and the firewall - should be roughly 3 inches between the back of the valve cover and the firewall. It's tough to say for sure from the picture. Unless they used a 60-series transmission top cover, there will be a slight bend in the shifter to clear the heater.

Check all the welds around the engine and transmission mounts carefully. For a V8 conversion to be done correctly, the mounts needed to be cut off and moved. I've seen some trucks with really terrible booger-weld jobs holding the engine in. With as much rust as the truck has, I'd be looking closely at the frame. It may be fine, it may not be, but carefully inspect the frame, spring mounts, and rear cross member behind the back wheels.

As others have said, I'd probably want to ditch the headers for some stock Ram's Horn manifolds - clears up a lot of space in the engine bay and the Ram's horns actually flow pretty ok. I'd use that as an opportunity to completely re-route the exhaust - I don't like exits in front of the tire - tends to smog up the inside of the truck (especially if the top is off) and is begging to be crushed by a rock. Usually, even with an auxillary tank there's room to squeeze the pipe by and out the back driver's side between the spring and the axle.

I'd 100% add a fan shroud, it will help with cooling and also keep you from cutting your fingers off.

If you do wind up buying it, don't hesitate to shoot me a PM with questions around the V8 stuff. I know about half as much (or less) than a lot of the guys on this forum but I've been wrenching on my rig for about a decade now and I've learned a lot along the way.
 
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Thanks for the great info! Ill check these things out today.
 
I brought the ‘77 home today. Thanks for all who helped with lending knowledge. It gave me alot of things to check that I may have overlooked. The engine/trans and power steering conversion all appear to have been done very well and I found out the crate 350 only has 10k on it since new. I got a stack of receipts of all the work done by a reputable local hot rod shop. The frame also looked flawless.

below are some pictures of the engine trans mounts from underneath and a couple at it’s new home.

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That looks like the conversion was done well. Do you have any pictures of the PS conversion?
 
Not now, but I can take some tomorrow.
 
Congrats!

Transfer case mount looks to be an Advance Adapter conversion. The front mount is bizarre, not a setup I’ve seen before. Bolted through the frame and tied to the mounts and under the oil pan? Like an extra cross member? Definitely not one I’ve seen before.

Looking forward to some more shots and details.
 
PS go find the thread about preserving patina on this forum. I bet with some elbow grease you could bring that truck back to red.
 
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Thats my plan. They are only original once.
 
You can sure buff it , personally I like the oxidized patina , maybe it was park in a doorless shed and the front end see the sun more

Home made engine mount is not the best design , but if it is solide you will be fine.

Why a panhard bar on the front ?
 
Search for EStein on here. He has a red 40 that was a badly faded as yours and it cleaned up nicely.
 

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