Builds KDJ95W-GKPSY Journal (1 Viewer)

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Here is a thought on the 1KZ - If you can find one - Go to a Latin grocer and ask if they know any mechanics. For my L049 I had a Salvadoran fellow do the work as he worked on many 4D56s before immigrating here. The same would be true for 1KZ
 
Here is a thought on the 1KZ - If you can find one - Go to a Latin grocer and ask if they know any mechanics. For my L049 I had a Salvadoran fellow do the work as he worked on many 4D56s before immigrating here. The same would be true for 1KZ

Just for clarity... His is the 1kd. Direct injection version of the 1kz. But your point is still valid.
 
Any chance you can take a video of the truck running and share it? Alternatively, have a look online at see if yours sounds similar. 1KD's are known to sound a lot more knocky and ticky compared to the prior gen 1KZ engine due to the direct injection. The only other things I can think of is if timing is off. Unplug the crank position sensor and see if it runs any different? It should be noticeably different at idle?

The suction control valves at the back of the pump are also a likely failure point, but I'm not sure I recall them causing a knock to be the symptom.
 
Good to know on both the amazon kit and the upper arms. How did they ship the arms to you? Duty extra? They look like the ticket for sure. Guess I better start saving...

Still leaves you with the knock. Hmm. Wonder if techstream could tell you anything about what the engine is doing? I haven't tried hooking it up to my 1KZ yet. Yours is even more advanced - maybe it could provide some feedback in terms of running parameters? I'm not sure.

$720CAD for the pair of jba UCAs + $90CAD to DHL for duties once they were at the border. Shipping was fast. Pretty expensive overall. I'd try and go for a cheaper option in hindsight.
Even tho the UCA's have the UBJs pressed in, you still need to press in the UBJ adaptors on the spindle. So its the same amount of work unfortunately. I actually ended up paying someone to press the adaptors in as my little ball joint puller coudnt do the job.

I couldnt get techstream to work. The fact that these cars dont have OBD2 is amusing.
I'm confident that I'll figure out the knock. Right now, I just dont have the time and energy to keep smashing my head against the wall.
 
Any chance you can take a video of the truck running and share it? Alternatively, have a look online at see if yours sounds similar. 1KD's are known to sound a lot more knocky and ticky compared to the prior gen 1KZ engine due to the direct injection. The only other things I can think of is if timing is off. Unplug the crank position sensor and see if it runs any different? It should be noticeably different at idle?

The suction control valves at the back of the pump are also a likely failure point, but I'm not sure I recall them causing a knock to be the symptom.
Cool I'l check that out and report back. And hopefully get the sound nice and clean on video. It could very well be the case that I am just paranoid and the knock I hear is not a big deal.
 
Re UCA good to know. Yeah definitely spendy, but nice arms just the same...

As far as idi versus Di, I concur. Definitely louder. I had a mitsu 4m40 for a long time. When I got a 4m41 with direct injection I was surprised at how much louder it was.

Going back to idi with the 1kz, it is definitely a different sound.
 
I definitely enjoy my KZ turbo/engine sound. Can't really say the same for the 1KD. But the 1KD shines in stock form power wise.
 
That sounds pretty normal to be honest. Direct injection sounds like that. My BMW N54 motor sounds like a diesel some times with the noise of the high pressure fuel pump and DI.

It sounds good up in the rev range as well. And that's on a cold engine. I'd guess it'd quiet down a tad once more too. Enjoy the motor. They'll run 300,000 miles pretty easily. Tons floating around with that miles. I have a little over 250,000 miles on my 1KZ.
 
That sounds pretty normal to be honest. Direct injection sounds like that. My BMW N54 motor sounds like a diesel some times with the noise of the high pressure fuel pump and DI.

It sounds good up in the rev range as well. And that's on a cold engine. I'd guess it'd quiet down a tad once more too. Enjoy the motor. They'll run 300,000 miles pretty easily. Tons floating around with that miles. I have a little over 250,000 miles on my 1KZ.

Thanks for the feedback Beau. Made me feel alot better. Currently I'm looking for a glow plug adapter to do a compression test. After that, I'll feel alot better.
 
Meahwhile I got some rubber mats to match my BFGoodrich KO2s. Installed a signal booster. Ready to head out for my elk.
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Then, as we were driving back leisurely, a goddam boulder came off a truck from the opposite lane. Almost shot my buddy in the face. Good thing he was wearing sunglasses as there was dust-size pieces of glass everywhere.
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I went to
ProSight Auto Glass
230 MacKay Rd, North Vancouver, BC

They took some pictures, handled all the insurance paperwork and told me to wait a while as they figure out where to source the windshield. Their database was saying they had a windshield in stock, but it turned out to be for a sports car. Then, a Toyota dealer in California was claiming to have a windshield in stock, but for some reason kept delaying the shipment. Eventually I suggested to contact Rocky Mountain Imports and import a windshield thru them. Thats exactly what happened. ICBC mafia paid for all of it.
Price of the imported windshield by itself was 700$ CAD.
 
Also at some point when I was back in the city, just by chance I noticed the nuts of the long UCA thrubolts (installed couple of weeks ago) were gone. Very scary experience.
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I ordered a bushing replacement kit from the JBA website as well the nuts for the North American equivalent tacoma from the local Toyota dealer. I made sure to use some threadlocker this time, as well as proper torquing specs (vehicle must be on he ground and have all its weight on its suspension for almost all torquing specs). So far so good.
 
Now its back to work and I've been ripping around snowed-in backroads long forgotten. Got stuck a couple of times and had to drop tire pressure down to 10psi to get out. For some reason I dont think my center diff locks. I need to figure out a way to check that. Also must get chains. Winter so far has been pretty mild but as soon as it drops under -20C I need to start using the company pickup as the Prado will no longer start easily and I dont wanna risk getting stranded 100kms in the bush everyday. Currently looking at diesel heater solutions to pre-heat my coolant. Very expensive stuff.

PS: I also got a Garmin Inreach mini. Its a satellite sms messenger that you can connect to your phone via Bluetooth. It's not a fullrpooof solution as it needs clear skies to function but its alot better than nothing.
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The truck shouldn't struggle to start in those temps at all. My experience is more with the KZ engine that I have, but that fires up no problem in -10c weather. Maybe one crank longer at most. Are your glow plugs in good condition?

Also, does your center diff light on the dash flash or go solid? Flash means trying to lock, solid means it's locked. Do you have a rear diff lock as well? Normally that can only be locked after your CD is locked.
 

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