Builds New project, 1969 fj40 (14 Viewers)

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projectTuRD

SILVER Star
Joined
Aug 9, 2016
Threads
32
Messages
641
Location
California
Hi,
I am feeling very fortunate today.
about 25 years ago I sold my last fj40, a 72,
not realizing it would take me this long to get another one.
They’ve increased in value so much that I felt I couldn’t justify it until I found (to me) the ‘perfect’ one.
I wanted a relatively rust free, and uncut original example.
I prefer the earlier years for some reason, appearance wise.
I found this on Craigslist while not really even looking.
there was some light drama trying to go look at it, but afterwards it seems it was meant to be.
1969 fj40.
some rust, bondo, undercoating.
it’s all there though, and runs and drives.
looking forward to a long term ‘patina’ project.
goals are to get rid of the tan paint and resurrect as much of the blue as possible.
Disc brake front end.
Clean up the wiring and other maintenance items.
Drive when I want, enjoy it.
It’s a long time Bay Area vehicle, if anyone has any stories or knowledge about it, please share.
Thanks for looking!

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Looks like a nice survivor! And we don't need to alert the bezel police :)

I've never seen eyelids on one of these. I may get flamed for this, but I kind of like it!

I'm just starting work on a 1967 that I picked up a month or so ago. I'd be interested in following your disc brake journey.
 
Can you share the frame number ? I also have a 1969. Was it a decent price or do you think it was rather high ? No worries as they will continue going up.
 
Can you share the frame number ? I also have a 1969. Was it a decent price or do you think it was rather high ? No worries as they will continue going up.
I don’t have it in front of me, but when I do, I will.
I feel I paid a very fair price based on what I had been seeing online.
 
Not only are Rancho 5000 shocks the arm pit of all shock absorbers, but your's have a bigger problem. Get rid of the red rubber shock boots. Water enters the boots through the top breather holes, gets trapped inside, then rust the shafts, then the rust passing through the top seal wipes out the shock.
 
Not only are Rancho 5000 shocks the arm pit of all shock absorbers, but your's have a bigger problem. Get rid of the red rubber shock boots. Water enters the boots through the top breather holes, gets trapped inside, then rust the shafts, then the rust passing through the top seal wipes out the shock.
That’s on the list for sure. I had to chuckle at the boots 😉
 
My ‘68 had about the same amount of rot in the rear sill when I got it. No biggie. But what’s up with those Fred Flintsone holes in the floor. I’ve never seen the inside of a toolbox from that angle!:eek:
 
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My ‘68 had about the sa amount of rot in the rear sill when I got it. No biggie. But what’s up with those Fred Flintsone holes in the floor. I’ve never seen the inside of a toolbox from that angle!:eek:
Definitely going to need a patch panel. Not too worried about the rest of the rust for now anyway.
going for a patina driver, not so much sanitary resto.
 
I got to poke around for ten minutes or so today, also transferred title and got a new registration sticker.
the rear lights are barely connected, just twisted, no tape, wire nut or anything 🤣
They’re getting replaced with stock units ASAP.
The signals don’t work, the front ones come on but don’t blink. The rears aren’t connected to the signal wire, just the running light wire.
Are the ‘bullet’ lights in the front bib only supposed to come on at the first detent then go off when the headlights come on?
I’m still unsure where the hood prop rod goes so for now the hood gets leaned up against the windshield.
the biggest setback is the top cap is the wrong year.
At some point I’ll have to find the correct one but it’s not that big of a deal yet. Just not looking forward to it.

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That is a thing of beauty!
 
Found an hour or so to try and deal with some electrical issues.

Everything ( front and rear) would come on with the first detent (marker lights), headlights would turn off at second.
I re did the terminals at the fenders and got everything to work except for the headlights. Probably why they had them on the marker light terminals.

The turn signals stay on (don’t blink) but maybe because the rear lights are led and not enough resistance? I thought they would fast flash. I’ve read that grounds can be an issue, or the flasher relay?
I played around with the rear lights and am ready to install new oem ones when I order them.

I removed the aftermarket electric horn and trailer wiring that was cut off at the front bumper.

I pulled the cluster out and reinstalled a couple bulbs that were hanging, and reinstalled it how it was supposed to be (wasn’t clipped in at the bottom so it stuck out of the dash a bit.

I also removed the eyelids and vacuum line spacers that held the bezel off the bib a ways (?!).

Slowly getting to a baseline of sorts.

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The bib spacers are supposed to be there!
 

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