You really start cooking with fire when you find the Isotope of Chinesium, radioactive and only responds to Swedish Nut Rounders
Wheel Bearings Service w/Pics (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter TheForger
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You really start cooking with fire when you find the Isotope of Chinesium, radioactive and only responds to Swedish Nut Rounders
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Ah ok... so you guys end up threading the bolt into the axle first THEN using that outside bolts to pull it out more!! Now I get it.. I was trying to figure out how that was working thinking you did it something similar to like a steering wheel puller..
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Yup, the two outer bolts keep the hub in place while the center bolt pulls the axle shaft out.
Yup I got fancy and tapped the outer holes. Gotta justify the Starret tap handle somehow!
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Great write-up and excellent pics. Wondering if the cone washers should always be replaced. I have the other OEM components to replace my 2005 100 front bearings but did not get new cone washers.
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I would recommend it. Mine were OEM and had obviously stretched out beyond their acceptable limits. Give your local dealer a call and ask for (12x) 42323-60030, they're cheap enough to get locally
you mean, like this
View attachment 2392484
somewhere along the line it bent because it's mild steel and because someone gave er to much wah
I found this picture of that bad boy in use, in case it helps anyone:
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
Tapped threads for those outer bolts is money. My dumbass just drilled holes for them, so there was enough play that they bent...
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Tackled this today as well. Replaced front rotors, races, and wheel bearings. Used Cruiser Outfitter's bearing kit along with the C-clips. Purchased new cone washers, washers, nuts from local Toyota dealer. This was my first time doing this. It wasn't as hard as I thought it would be but ran into some issue with the races.
I did get little stuck on the inner (larger) race. I was able to knock out both inner and outer races and got the new smaller (outer) race in by using the standard 72mm bearing/race set tool. But, I couldn't get the new larger race in since the bearing/race set tool I have doesn't go that high. I think it's 88mm or 89mm (basically 3.5 inch).
So, I went to Home Depot and looked for something with 3.5 inch diameter. Found 3.5 inch black plumbing PVC pipe. It was the perfect size. They sell 2ft (or 3ft, I can't remember but it was $7). Brought it home, cut it to size, and used it to set the larger race with hammer/wood. It worked perfectly! I'm sure there's other easier ways to get this done...lucky for me, this worked.
Sharing this for those contemplating about changing out races. It wasn't that bad.
I did get little stuck on the inner (larger) race. I was able to knock out both inner and outer races and got the new smaller (outer) race in by using the standard 72mm bearing/race set tool. But, I couldn't get the new larger race in since the bearing/race set tool I have doesn't go that high. I think it's 88mm or 89mm (basically 3.5 inch).
So, I went to Home Depot and looked for something with 3.5 inch diameter. Found 3.5 inch black plumbing PVC pipe. It was the perfect size. They sell 2ft (or 3ft, I can't remember but it was $7). Brought it home, cut it to size, and used it to set the larger race with hammer/wood. It worked perfectly! I'm sure there's other easier ways to get this done...lucky for me, this worked.
Sharing this for those contemplating about changing out races. It wasn't that bad.
Good work on getting it back and serviceable. The bearing pack job that had been done previously looked terrible.
Just for reference for folks doing this job, if you buy a 16oz tub of wheel bearing grease from Timken or another, you should end up using at least the entire pound of grease when doing both sides. The last time I did this job I believe I started with two pounds and ended with half a pound remaining.
@TheForger, your CV's look like the C-Clip groove is rounded out, which is what is causing your C-clips to jump.
Just for reference for folks doing this job, if you buy a 16oz tub of wheel bearing grease from Timken or another, you should end up using at least the entire pound of grease when doing both sides. The last time I did this job I believe I started with two pounds and ended with half a pound remaining.
@TheForger, your CV's look like the C-Clip groove is rounded out, which is what is causing your C-clips to jump.
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Yes, I made sure to lightly file the ends of the splines that face the c-clip groove going all the way around the shaft. This proved to work very well by allowing the new clip to seat properly and hopefully not pop out anymore. I made sure to remove as little material as possible to not increase the groove thickness too much, but just enough to properly seat a new clip.
Agreed, thanks for bringing up the grease topic. I used an entire tub of Mobil1 wheel bearing grease for my bearings, hub cavity, light coatings on the spindle before replacing the hub, and lightly coating the inside of the new flange so it would slide over the CV easier.
I used a tube of Mobil1 Synthetic Grease with the Slee Spindle Grease Tool to grease the needle bearings. I would approximate around 3/4 was used to do both sides. I don’t ever recall those bearings being serviced in the past so I made sure to pump in as much as it took before the nastiness that came out the backside looked the same as what was going in.
And Quicksilver High Performance Extreme grease where I specified “marine-grade” (brake backing shield, dust cover, etc...)
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I like that solution a lot! I’m a fan of inexpensive solutions
I didn’t even bother with the race tools.What I did was set the new race in the hub, get it started by gently tapping it with a plastic hammer all the way around until aligned properly, and then used the old race on top of the new one to knock it 98% in. I made sure that since the new race has the “Timken” branding facing into the hub, the old race I put on top needed to have it facing me so that the edges would match (I hope that makes sense...). Only thing to keep in mind is once the new race is almost completely seated, the old race can get stuck in there so I did the last 2% with my brass dowel.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
See now this is what I was thinking of making. Figure I can bet a 2" or 3" wide piece of flat steel from Lowe's/Home Depot for cheap and weld it together into one larger piece. Have myself a drill press and tap set to get things lined up and then was thinking about just welding some nuts to the ends of the outer bolts to go over the studs (of course they would have the inside cleaned up with no threading). Then do the center bolt and have a nice puller for fairly cheap.
Awesome write up and pictures.
"Snap ring size C 2.6mm; Adjusting nut @ 65ft/lbs + locking nut @ 47 ft/lbs = 13lb breakaway"
I think FSM instruction say to tighten to 6.5 N m *
Almost posted this...
Realized the units posted were different from what I used (N m) when done recently.
Pay attention to the units for torque specs
It’s important to displace all the grease and get as tight a fit as possible for the snap rings. Any longitudinal play at all between the shaft splines and the flange can be too much. Once the sawing action begins it will wear splines and then wear the ring groove bigger. It’s a big cause of mystery clunks. Also, forces splines to wear prematurely, and axles are expensive.
JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
FSM says tighten adjusting nut until 42-67 Nm (or 9-15 lbf) breakaway is achieved. Not sure where you're getting 6.5 Nm.I think FSM instruction say to tighten to 6.5 N m *
Almost posted this...
Realized the units posted were different from what I used (N m) when done recently.
Pay attention to the units for torque specs
