Stock suspension and fire roads - pretty impressive for stock (1 Viewer)

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Moby

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I had the first opportunity to spend a more lengthy amount of time on some fire roads yesterday and was pretty impressed for a stock suspension. Way better than the stock suspension on my GX460 (base not premium with air suspension), which would rattle my teeth out (hence the stock suspension came off as a priority with <1k on the truck).

The roads were not bad by any means but lots of washboard and definitely some more interesting sections that pushed the articulation some. It did so well that I was regularly catching and getting stuck behind all manner of pick ups - Chevy, Ford, Tacomas, etc. That were moving 10mph slower than I was (and I was not pushing the pace, just driving what was comfortable - with one exception where I hit 35-40mph on a straight flat section that was pretty washboarded out but no big craters or rocks). This was with stock tires as well.

The GX with Radflos and my tuning would have done better than the stock 200, and I still plan on upgrading the 200's suspension. But thought I'd pass this along for folks that only occasionally want use their 200s "off road" (if you can call fire roads that) and might be worried about how well it might do with the stock set up.
 
Given my height constraints I’ve been wrestling with this, I can’t fit a lift in my garage but from my extremely limited experience, the factory suspension appears to be enough for my needs. Always love hearing feedback from the trail!
 
I had the first opportunity to spend a more lengthy amount of time on some fire roads yesterday and was pretty impressed for a stock suspension. Way better than the stock suspension on my GX460 (base not premium with air suspension), which would rattle my teeth out (hence the stock suspension came off as a priority with <1k on the truck).

The roads were not bad by any means but lots of washboard and definitely some more interesting sections that pushed the articulation some. It did so well that I was regularly catching and getting stuck behind all manner of pick ups - Chevy, Ford, Tacomas, etc. That were moving 10mph slower than I was (and I was not pushing the pace, just driving what was comfortable - with one exception where I hit 35-40mph on a straight flat section that was pretty washboarded out but no big craters or rocks). This was with stock tires as well.

The GX with Radflos and my tuning would have done better than the stock 200, and I still plan on upgrading the 200's suspension. But thought I'd pass this along for folks that only occasionally want use their 200s "off road" (if you can call fire roads that) and might be worried about how well it might do with the stock set up.

Pictures? Stock tires?
 
I noticed that too when we first bought our 200. Unfortunately I ruined it when I had the factory coil spacers installed. Now it bounces all over the place on washboard dirt roads and even bumpy paved roads.
 
I noticed that too when we first bought our 200. Unfortunately I ruined it when I had the factory coil spacers installed. Now it bounces all over the place on washboard dirt roads and even bumpy paved roads.

Can you share more details? Was it aligned afterwards? Is it bump steer you’re experiencing?
 
I noticed that too when we first bought our 200. Unfortunately I ruined it when I had the factory coil spacers installed. Now it bounces all over the place on washboard dirt roads and even bumpy paved roads.
On mine there was literally no difference in ride before/after the OE strut spacer. Most people seem to report similar to my experience. I wonder if yours were installed correctly.
 
On mine there was literally no difference in ride before/after the OE strut spacer. Most people seem to report similar to my experience. I wonder if yours were installed correctly.

I’m not sure. It was done at a Toyota dealer although they have never installed them before. The ride difference is so different that after spending $500 for the install, I’m contemplating having them removed for the great ride comfort we had before.
 
Something isn’t right. If the install is accurate, your alignment might be significantly off.
 
I noticed that too when we first bought our 200. Unfortunately I ruined it when I had the factory coil spacers installed. Now it bounces all over the place on washboard dirt roads and even bumpy paved roads.

Not likely the spacer as it has no impact on preload or spring rate.

What did likely happen is that they didn't torque the suspension points per the factory service manual procedure. Specifically, the major pivot points of the suspension articulate on rubber bushings. These bushings are bonded to the inner and outer casings, and flex and deform, rather than slide for the suspension to articulate. It's important that when they tighten the bushings down, that the full weight of the vehicle is on them, so that the rubber bushings rest in a neutral state at ride height. What they likely did is torque the suspension while it was in full droop on the hoist. Essentially adding a ton of pre-load to the bushings (and suspension) such that it doesn't articulate nor dampen suspension movements properly anymore.

I would go back to the dealership, give them an earful, and ask for the suspension points to be loosened and re-tightened on the alignment rack. Then fully re-aligned. If it's been some time, be aware that this may prematurely wear the suspension bushings.

This is just a snippet of the FSM. Note the text in orange.
1596308776572.png
 
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Not likely the spacer as it has no impact on preload or spring rate.

What did likely happen is that they didn't torque the suspension points per the factory service manual procedure. Specifically, the major pivot points of the suspension articulate on rubber bushings. These bushings are bonded to the inner and outer casings, and flex and deform, rather than slide for the suspension to articulate. It's important that when they tighten the bushings down, that the full weight of the vehicle is on them, so that the rubber bushings rest in a neutral state at ride height. What they likely did is torque the suspension while it was in full droop on the hoist. Essentially adding a ton of pre-load to the bushings (and suspension) such that it doesn't articulate nor dampen suspension movements properly anymore.

I would go back to the dealership, give them an earful, and ask for the suspension points to be loosened and re-tightened on the alignment rack. Then fully re-aligned. If it's been some time, be aware that this may prematurely wear the suspension bushings.

This is just a snippet of the FSM. Note the text in orange.
View attachment 2390284
Good call, my money is on this being the issue.
 
I agree, the stock suspension is awesome on a graded or wash boarded road. However, it quickly gets overwhelmed when the wash boards start turning to whoops or on embedded rocks.
 
Pictures? Stock tires?

No pics, not that exciting. Yes, stock tires (for now)

I agree, the stock suspension is awesome on a graded or wash boarded road. However, it quickly gets overwhelmed when the wash boards start turning to whoops or on embedded rocks.

Yeah, when the craters got bigger I could start to feel the limits. Suspension and tires will be the first mods, but can't really start the process until fall. Suspension tuning is one of my favorite things to do, so having to wait is frustrating :)
 
Not likely the spacer as it has no impact on preload or spring rate.

What did likely happen is that they didn't torque the suspension points per the factory service manual procedure. Specifically, the major pivot points of the suspension articulate on rubber bushings. These bushings are bonded to the inner and outer casings, and flex and deform, rather than slide for the suspension to articulate. It's important that when they tighten the bushings down, that the full weight of the vehicle is on them, so that the rubber bushings rest in a neutral state at ride height. What they likely did is torque the suspension while it was in full droop on the hoist. Essentially adding a ton of pre-load to the bushings (and suspension) such that it doesn't articulate nor dampen suspension movements properly anymore.

I would go back to the dealership, give them an earful, and ask for the suspension points to be loosened and re-tightened on the alignment rack. Then fully re-aligned. If it's been some time, be aware that this may prematurely wear the suspension bushings.

This is just a snippet of the FSM. Note the text in orange.
View attachment 2390284

Thank you for this. The truck is actually at the same dealer for a radiator replacement so I’ll mention this to the mechanic.
 
^Curious if you've had any resolution or the problem remains?
 
^Curious if you've had any resolution or the problem remains?

I did. I asked them to see if the master mechanic originally performed the procedure per the factory service manual and instead of saying yes or no, they told me they loosened everything and re-torqued everything per manual yesterday while it was still in the shop. I only drove it home from the dealer so I can’t say I notice a difference. I’ll know for sure this weekend when I get it on some fire roads.
 

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