How long do tie rods ussualy last? (1 Viewer)

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I am in the prossess of sorting out a hum/vibration and uneven front driver tire wear. I noticed what feels like a little play in the tie rod on the steering box arm. All the others feel tight.

I am thinking I should replace all 4 with new oem ones. I replaced all 4 with oem ones about 6 years ago but for me that is 120,000 miles ago. Is that about the right life of a oem tie rod end on these trucks? Or should they last longer than that?

I am also figuring on new wheel bearings which I also replaced with new oem about the same time ago. I keep them greased and the look good but go figure.
 
Hi, Our tie rods last longer on the cruisers that don’t go much in the woods etc. With the streets In the south constantly being repaired Due to pot hole etc. I am replacing more tie rods than I used to. If your using larger tires than stock and arb lifts and heavy bumpers tie rods will need to be replaced more frequently. Even using Toyota or 555 Japanese made. Mike
 
I am in the prossess of sorting out a hum/vibration and uneven front driver tire wear. I noticed what feels like a little play in the tie rod on the steering box arm. All the others feel tight.

I am thinking I should replace all 4 with new oem ones. I replaced all 4 with oem ones about 6 years ago but for me that is 120,000 miles ago. Is that about the right life of a oem tie rod end on these trucks? Or should they last longer than that?

I am also figuring on new wheel bearings which I also replaced with new oem about the same time ago. I keep them greased and the look good but go figure.
I just replaced all wheel and trunion bearings which got rid of 95% of my vibes up front. Next will be tie rods. I was looking earlier and marlin makes a good kit with 555 rods or you can get upgraged steering and drag link for 100 more. I think I am going to go that route.

 
I just replaced all wheel and trunion bearings which got rid of 95% of my vibes up front. Next will be tie rods. I was looking earlier and marlin makes a good kit with 555 rods or you can get upgraged steering and drag link for 100 more. I think I am going to go that route.

That looks nice but I am going to stick with oem stuff. I am using truck for less and less "hard core" wheeling and more "travel". Kind of a ashame since it has become "pretty good" wheeling. I had it on a trail yesterday for the first time since going to 35s and Marlin crawl gears. I was simply trying to get up to a mountain lake to go camping, just me and the dog. The old mining road got kind of rough. Mining roads in Montana mountains are not much of a road. Nothing major but water running down the trail and legitimate 2' ledges and rocks while being very steep. The truck just went right up, hardly slipped at all, didnt really even pick a line and never need my lockers. No drama at all.
 
I ordered a 555 kit from Kurt (cruiser outfitters). I find they're predominately purists, but have done their research to supply equivalent or upgraded parts when compared to OEM and are usually able to deliver lower prices.

 
I changed both the tie and drag links a few years back, I reckon the ones I removed were original and around 200,000 on them, I have now changed to HD bars and joints with grease nipples.

regards

Dave
 
I changed both the tie and drag links a few years back, I reckon the ones I removed were original and around 200,000 on them, I have now changed to HD bars and joints with grease nipples.

regards

Dave
What joints are these that have a grease nipple?
 
I just replaced all wheel and trunion bearings which got rid of 95% of my vibes up front. Next will be tie rods. I was looking earlier and marlin makes a good kit with 555 rods or you can get upgraged steering and drag link for 100 more. I think I am going to go that route.

Looks like a good kit and allows the original steering dampener attachment vs. the ubolt aftermarket stuff. I've been putting off doing this and this may be the kit that I'll go with as well. Price isn't bad either for the complete kit.
 
The Marlin ad reads like a fantasy story. They act as if we can’t buy a DOM drag link, tie rod and 80 series rod ends elsewhere and put together the same “kit” ourselves.

Rod ends other than Toyota’s might be built well but, from my experience with my own rig and that of friends, the after markets can’t compete when it comes to the type and amount of grease they use and this deficiency becomes more of a problem for longevity when the rubber boot deteriorates sooner than oem. A dry rod end doesn’t last very long.
 
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Thanks guys. Mine are oem with 120,000 miles. I am going to go out with a lever and check again for any play. But I am suspecting it is my wheel bearing and maybe the spindles are worn allowing the outer bearing to spin. Sucks but the truck has 320,000 on it. So I figure it might be time for new spindles. Hopefully someone I trust can tell me if the japan made aftermarket spindles are good.
 
Thanks guys. Mine are oem with 120,000 miles. I am going to go out with a lever and check again for any play. But I am suspecting it is my wheel bearing and maybe the spindles are worn allowing the outer bearing to spin. Sucks but the truck has 320,000 on it. So I figure it might be time for new spindles. Hopefully someone I trust can tell me if the japan made aftermarket spindles are good.
More like your inner bearing spinning. I got joint Fuji spindles from Cruiser outfitters three years ago for that exact reason. So far the spindles are working out.
 
The Marlin ad reads like a fanta story. They act as if we can’t buy a DOM drag link, tie rod and 80 series rod ends elsewhere and put together the same “kit” ourselves.

Rod ends other than Toyota’s might be built well but, from my experience with my own rig and that of friends, the after markets can’t compete when it comes to the type and amount of grease they use and this deficiency becomes more of a problem for longevity when the rubber boot deteriorates sooner than oem. A dry rod end doesn’t last very long.
I'm new to the 80 series, but I looked at the cruiser outfitter's sight and the tie rod alone is $229 not including the tie rod ends or relay rod and ends. The marlin complete kit with ends, relay rod w/ ends is $249 complete. The tie rod ends are 555 according to the site. How is this a bad set-up? Just trying to get good info so I can make a good choice for my 94 FZJ80 with stock suspension. I am planning an OME steering stabilizer as well.
 
That looks nice but I am going to stick with oem stuff. I am using truck for less and less "hard core" wheeling and more "travel". Kind of a ashame since it has become "pretty good" wheeling. I had it on a trail yesterday for the first time since going to 35s and Marlin crawl gears. I was simply trying to get up to a mountain lake to go camping, just me and the dog. The old mining road got kind of rough. Mining roads in Montana mountains are not much of a road. Nothing major but water running down the trail and legitimate 2' ledges and rocks while being very steep. The truck just went right up, hardly slipped at all, didnt really even pick a line and never need my lockers. No drama at all.

Pictures or it didn't happen....

2ec.jpg
 
I'm new to the 80 series, but I looked at the cruiser outfitter's sight and the tie rod alone is $229 not including the tie rod ends or relay rod and ends. The marlin complete kit with ends, relay rod w/ ends is $249 complete. The tie rod ends are 555 according to the site. How is this a bad set-up? Just trying to get good info so I can make a good choice for my 94 FZJ80 with stock suspension. I am planning an OME steering stabilizer as well.
I didn’t mean that Marlin’s kit is no good. What I meant is that it reads as if it’s the savior. You can buy DOM rods from Slee also or make your own but I found that making my own first set didn’t really save money. My most recent tie rod was purchased from Front range off-road for like $100 or something close to that.

I believe in Joint Fuji products and I ran their rod ends for four years with no problems steering 37’s over many miles of boulders. several months ago I peeled back the rubber boot on a couple of the joints to find that the rubber was not nearly as pliable and the grease was nearly dry compared to day one. How do OEM rod ends last 100k plus miles and all those years? The answer is better grease and rubber.
 
What joints are these that have a grease nipple?


The bars are heavier and there are heavier ball joints with a grease nipple instead of the normal non serviceable versions, the drag link the same. I grease them twice a year at the same time as the propshaft.

regards

Dave
 
The bars are heavier and there are heavier ball joints with a grease nipple instead of the normal non serviceable versions, the drag link the same. I grease them twice a year at the same time as the propshaft.

regards

Dave
Maybe you could provide a detail or two about brand names, size, where you obtained these parts............... etc ?
 
"How long do tie rods usually last"

Original TRE's on my stock 80 at 362,000 miles (doesn't go off-road). Replaced the boots a few years ago and regreased them. They were easier to move by hand than new TRE's for sure, but decided not to replace them at that time. Tires wearing evenly, no noises from the front end, and she tracks straight down the road. FWIW.
 
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Maybe you could provide a detail or two about brand names, size, where you obtained these parts............... etc ?


From a company called Euro 4x4, they are not cheap and being in Europe the cost of shipping would generally mean stateside don't bother purchasing from them.


regards

Dave
 
I'm new to the 80 series, but I looked at the cruiser outfitter's sight and the tie rod alone is $229 not including the tie rod ends or relay rod and ends. The marlin complete kit with ends, relay rod w/ ends is $249 complete. The tie rod ends are 555 according to the site. How is this a bad set-up? Just trying to get good info so I can make a good choice for my 94 FZJ80 with stock suspension. I am planning an OME steering stabilizer as well.
I went with the Marlin's based on the same economics. They did come with 555 ends. The only drawback is the rods don't have a ground flat for tightening the nut which would have been nice.
 

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