Project Guidance, fixing a Bunch O Stuff (2 Viewers)

[6894kevin]

High Pressure Steering Lines 1FZ 93-97 [44411-60430-U] - $50.00 : CruiserParts.net, Toyota Landcruiser Parts

CruiserParts.net High Pressure Steering Lines 1FZ 93-97 [44411-60430-U] - Fits 1FZ Land Cruiser 1993-1997 FZJ80.

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80 Series 1FZ Power Steering Cooler and Hose Upgrade Kit

80 Series 1FZ Power Steering Cooler and Hose Upgrade Kit (PSC-1KIT)

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Power Steering Gear Box All 1990-1997 80 Series [44110-60211-R] - $449.00 : CruiserParts.net, Toyota Landcruiser Parts

CruiserParts.net Power Steering Gear Box All 1990-1997 80 Series [44110-60211-R] - Rebuilt FJ80 FZJ80, HZJ80, HDJ80 LHD steering boxes. These steering boxes are completely rebuilt with new seals and bearings. Each unit is tested before shipping.

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a quick search on parts and dang... I cant swing 800 bones right now, might need to wait on this.

I'll at least do the low-pressure lines

 

[ZackR]

Looked up the 4 part numbers for the trans cooler hoses from an old post that Onur made a while back and the hoses are that expensive but also 2 are showing unavailable. That could be true or not as I haven't gone to the dealer yet, BUT I also read people were using regular auto parts store hose.... Thoughts??

I went with NAPA for the power steering hoses. As @Azca mentioned once that area is opened up take advantage and tackle the power steering hoses and transmission cooler hoses since it will be much easier (I used bulk Gates trans cooler hoses, not expensive). I thought about doing the power steering pump but mine is still working just fine so I left it alone.

I'd also suggest a visit to the local DIY car wash bay to clean that area as best as possible before you tear anything apart.

As for belts they are easy assuming you install them correctly. A lot of folks have tried to route them incorrectly over the idler pulley and then its a hassle.

 

[6894kevin]

I might be in the same boat, my steering system is working so I might just replace the cooling lines and maybe the high-pressure line (both aftermarket) and rock on. It would be nice to know its all upgraded and new but that might have to wait for the next project mainly due to funds...

Correct me if I'm wrong but the steering assembly itself can be all done from the wheel well and underneath correct? So if I replace the lines then I can save for the box and won't have to pull stuff apart again to replace it

 

[ZackR]

If the power steering pump is working and not leaking then leave it for now.

Oh and if you haven't guessed already this job will make a mess so line up plenty of rags, paper towels, cardboard, etc.... plus safety glasses and gloves.

 

[6894kevin]

LOL yeah, I've actually been saving cardboard for a while..

 

[6894kevin]

Any preferences on fluid?

 

[jpoole]

The power steering pump area is congested and hard to access so removal of parts is a necessity but I don't think that having the radiator itself out is that essential to the work. Pulling the battery and battery box is pretty easy and as I recall provides most of the needed access, though disconnecting a few other items in the area may also be required. In any case, this isn't a disagreement with the above it's just to say that while it would be more efficient to do it all now it's not that big of a deal if you tackled some of the power steering stuff later as you don't have to pull the rad. again to do it. For instance, I left my rad in when doing HG replace, power steering replacement, oil pump reseal, etc. and would have removed it if it seemed relevant but easily worked around it.

A big factor here is that if you are newer to this type of work smaller/quicker jobs are a better idea. They are less intimidating and there are fewer systems to troubleshoot if problems show up after the work. It's also easier to remember where things go if you put them back together more quickly after you remove them. Finally, if you take too much stuff off at once it's a lot more to organize, keep track of and sequence on re-assembly...

 

[ZackR]

A big factor here is that if you are newer to this type of work smaller/quicker jobs are a better idea. They are less intimidating and there are fewer systems to troubleshoot if problems show up after the work. It's also easier to remember where things go if you put them back together more quickly after you remove them. Finally, if you take too much stuff off at once it's a lot more to organize, keep track of and sequence on re-assembly...

On this note - take a bunch of photos with your phone, before, after and during the process. Also I subscribe to the cardboard box with holes poked in in method to keep track of nuts and bolts as they come off. It makes it easy to write down where they came from.

 

[6894kevin]

So hopefully order a few more things this week. New Rad and decided to aftermarket on the high and low power steering lines.

Any suggestions on fluid for the steering?

 

[ZackR]

So hopefully order a few more things this week. New Rad and decided to aftermarket on the high and low power steering lines.

Any suggestions on fluid for the steering?

To simply things I use the same thing as I do in the transmission (both require ATF). $18/gallon at wal mart.

Valvoline Maxlife ATF

 

[6894kevin]

Got my Toyota OEM radiator and it does come with a cap, if there was any confusion. It looks undamaged and was way heavier than I expected. Just have to get a few more things before I start

Any recommendations on preparing the area for easy bolt removal. Im cleaning with simple green and wanted to spray penetrating oil just don't know if one is better than another

 

[6894kevin]

This is what I was thinking of using, any better suggestions? I'm always up for hearing about 1st hand knowledge, never really used this kinda stuff before

 

[ColoradoBoy]

This is what I was thinking of using, any better suggestions? I'm always up for hearing about 1st hand knowledge, never really used this kinda stuff before

View attachment 2369179

I use this all the time- It's good to soak any bolts that you will be getting after once a day for a few days to really get good penetration, if the parts are heavily corroded...

 

[6894kevin]

Thanks man, that's the plan I'm taking a long weekend at the end of the month and want to do this daily for a week before I start.

 

[6894kevin]

Houston......... I think I have a problem

Okay so for the past week I've been using degreaser on areas I know I'm going to be working on.

One area is making me have second thoughts. I initially thought my distributor oring was an issue but I've noticed oil is on the top radiator hose just below the cap??????

I've read that there is the serviceable o-ring that I was planning replacing and a 2nd gasket that is internal.... AND since it looks like oil on the top radiator hose which is below the cap does this mean the internal one is the issue

Anyone have guidance on this

 

[Tedward]

Fan and wind blows oil and whatnots all over.

 

[6894kevin]

This is what I'm thinking about for all the things I'm going to be tackling and would love feedback from those who are more experienced. The following is what I'm planning on doing step by step if something is out of order or I missed something please let me know.

The first thing is Pull in to the garage

1. Drain oil and remove the oil filter
2. Drain radiator @ peacock once low remove block bolt and drain block coolant with remaining radiator fluid
3. Remove lights/shroud/fan/ belts/radiator and battery with the battery box. I will be following the video by @OTRAMM (Would removing bumper help at all for access?? It’s a TJM T17 and shouldn’t be hard to remove)
4. Drain Power steering fluid
5. Remove high and low-pressure PS lines
6. Replace battery cables with the upgraded kit (thinking it will be the most open at this time) from @Fourrunner
7. Replace distributor O ring
8. Install PS high and low lines (lift front to bleed and catch remaining block coolant)
9. Install ATF fluid and bleed PS system with front lifted (turning wheel lock to lock) Will this be okay with no battery to start? I assume it doesn’t need to be running to bleed correct?
10. Lower back to the ground
11. Remove front crank bolt to access Oil pump seal and replace (should be good and drained by now)
12. New oil filter, plug gasket and refill with oil
13. Push Outside (Driveway has a bit of a slope so the front will be higher, hopefully, that helps when I refill the coolant)
14. Remove thermostat (will be replaced with new) and close up housing for free flow through the block? (is that correct????)
15. Flush Block with the hose and clean overflow tank
16. Do block flush with distilled water (How do I force jug water through the system to clean out garden hose water??????)
17. Replace Block Drain plug with new @NLXTACY wits' end block drain plug
18. Replace new thermostat
19. Reinstall fan/shroud/belts etc..
20. Install New Radiator (or should this be step #19??)
21. Install battery box and battery
22. Add coolant to the system
23. Hopefully, she starts
24. Bleed air from the coolant system
25. Check for leaks

Thanks for any help or guidance, still kinda nervous about this!

 

[6894kevin]

First success...hopefully stopped the speedo gear from leaking

 

[PZLCruiser]

Looks like your well prepared. Go for it!

I also got the cable kit from forerunner and was looking at what it was going to take to put in last night. Instead of undoing all the nicely wrapped wire loom im thinking of just cutting and capping the main leads to be replaced as close to the wrapping as I can. Then install the new cable kit and zip tying to the outside of the loom where needed. Most of the ground cable can just come out and go in. Let me know what your thoughts are.

 

[jpoole]

Nice list and you'll be glad to have it as a rough guide as you proceed. A few thoughts came to mind when reading it:

3. I'd keep the front bumper on to avoid one more task and to use as a place to stand at some parts of the process. Bumper off plus the right step/stool(s) could be best but I just wouldn't want to deal with the extra hassle unless there is another reason to take the bumper off, like rust treatment or something.
9. I'm not sure the PS will bleed without the motor running but could be wrong and it doesn't matter anyway. You can fill it and move on then come back to topping it up once the engine's running. I don't typically follow the "bleeding procedure" and just watch to keep the reservoir topped up for a few days as I'm going to be checking all fluids for a few days after work like this anyway.
16a. The problem with tap water is that it can be mineral rich. Those minerals or whatever in the water can fall out and leave deposits/scaling/build up over time and can increase the conductivity of the coolant which leads to increased internal corrosion.
16b. In order to try to get it all out before that happens I've started using a shop vac. I reverse the flow of the shop vac so that it's a low pressure, high-volume blower and then stick that into different passages of the cooling system and allow it to blow for a while in each. You could also do this with vacuum once it starts to get more dry. You can leave this in the upper rad. hose blowing into the block for some time while it dries the block out. I'm not sure how much water is left behind after blowing but if you combine blowing with a follow up distilled water fill/drain there should be very little tap water left.
16c. I'll also add that if you use the 50/50 premix you can adopt a similar maintenance practice that I follow and think has some value. Every Spring I loosen the rad cap and then pop an end of a lower radiator hose off. This drops right at 2 gallons of coolant out of the cooling system. While it's draining I remove the overflow tank (just lift it straight up) then flush and clean it. I also remove the rad. cap and clear out the ports (below the little metal flapper valve) with a water hose and clean up the overflow lines/cap. I then put it all back together, refill and handle my other spring maintenance items. In short, this is an easy way to do a partial coolant change and to clear out the easy to access system areas. Total coolant capacity is just over 3.5 gallons I think so with this annual drop/fill I'm changing about half of the fluid. My 80 had some rust inside the cooling system when I bought it and multiple flushes/vinegar soaks/etc. didn't get it all out. Every year there is still some rust residue in the overflow tank when I do this process and early on the rad cap was getting clogged periodically. In cases where you have a dirty cooling system a maintenance practice like this may be a good way to use time and heat cycles to continue to clear out the system.