FJ80 Major Help! (1 Viewer)

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Hold up... My interpretation of:

is to check the fusible links for conductivity (resistance being its opposite, electrically) and see if you have a smoking gun there.
Follow the advice to replace them, yes, but you can possibly rule them out as THE issue if they don't test bad. Which means the diagnosis could continue today.

Not sure if I checked them correctly but

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Turn the dial one click counterclockwise so the dot points to the "arrow+symbol" (one symbol to the right of the one in the picture above).

Then test from one end of a wire to the other end. If it is good the meter should read "1"
 
The wingnut on the negative battery terminal looks loose. I don't think that will solve the problem but something that shouldn't be overlooked.

Your very right! Noted and corrected ✅ about to dive back into the engine hoping to solve it by tonight ! Leaving no stone unturned!
 
You're measuring resistance across the ring terminal? You need to check to see if the wire is broken...so from one end to the other end.
 
:popcorn:
 
Touch the two meter leads together and make sure your meter and meter wires are functioning. Once you know what happens when you do that you can test the links. When you check the links it should be similar to what happened when you touched the leads together.
To test the links do what you are doing in images 2 and 3 above.
 
not to hijack but I don't get the CEL and never have when starting. I've even changed the dash bulb and that wasn't it. That being said it might start even without the light, at least mine does. good luck man!
 
have you even determined what you're missing? an engine needs four things to run. fuel, air, spark, and compression. its probably safe to assume that you have air and compression but thats never guaranteed. crack a fuel line loose and crank the engine to see if you get fuel to spray out. if you dont then obviously you need to find out why the pump isnt working and go from there. if you do then you know your likely getting fuel (unless your injectors arent working... and we'll get there). if you do have fuel, check to see if you're getting spark. this is going to give you the direction you need to go rather than just blindly guessing at things. ive been through hell with my 3fe and have encountered a few things. this being one of them. and this has happened more than once with different causes. good luck.
 
This is what I got from the +B socket...is it ok if it’s over 12? @jonheld

View attachment 2370609
A few volts over 12 is expected in a 14 volt system, sure. 153 volts over, no. ;)

But to actually help you... Turn the knob to DCV 20 (DC Volts) and not the ohms setting you currently have it on.

Test again, and let us know.
 
not to hijack but I don't get the CEL and never have when starting. I've even changed the dash bulb and that wasn't it. That being said it might start even without the light, at least mine does. good luck man!
Then you likely have an issue with either the logic path from the ECU or the +12 feed to the CEL bulb.
In a stock configuration that has not been molested, the CEL illuminating in the ON position before you crank the starter indicates that the ECU is in a ready state. The fact that your CEL doesn't illuminate points to other issues with your truck and is likely not the issue here.
 
This is what I got from the +B socket...is it ok if it’s over 12? @jonheld
You need to learn how to use your meter correctly. Please read the instructions.
Your diagnostic connector is laid out exactly as I posted in my Excel diagram. The picture you posted from whatever website is incorrect.
 
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thanks everyone, first time using a meter .. never had to chase electrical problems like this before. Sorry for the lack , but definitely grateful for all the advice and help I’ll have the reading up by 2 im driving to pick up fusable link right now ... picking up two of them as instructed to always keep spares!!!
 

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