Something's not right - it should run maybe 20-30 min max then time outUpdate 8:53pm fan still running..........clearly longer than it should at 1.5 hours. Going to disconnect it
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Something's not right - it should run maybe 20-30 min max then time outUpdate 8:53pm fan still running..........clearly longer than it should at 1.5 hours. Going to disconnect it
That's approx what the original one did, when it did kick on.Something's not right - it should run maybe 20-30 min max then time out
Maybe @ToyotaMatt has a solution. Even when crazy hot it never ran too long.That's approx what the original one did, when it did kick on.
So I just disconnected the battery, the relay clicked and shut off. I'll be troubleshooting it for the next few days in between work....
Huh..... I’ve already said this earlier in this thread! Age and a dash a Woodford/rocks will do this!I’ve sunk around $50 into new relay/control box/temp sensor...... still not functioning off the temp sensor! Mine runs approx 30 minutes after shutdown when grounded, which isn’t bad but I’m gonna install a toggle switch to disable when I want (got an existing PO dash hole anyway )
I’ve sunk around $50 into new relay/control box/temp sensor...... still not functioning off the temp sensor! Mine runs approx 30 minutes after shutdown when grounded, which isn’t bad but I’m gonna install a toggle switch to disable when I want (got an existing PO dash hole anyway )
If your relay and timer are working properly after you momentarily ground the wire for the sensor, then your only problem is in the sensor. These use a snap switch. It is either on or off. They are cheap and available on Amazon. Just get a 160 or 175 degree snap switch, mount it so it's case is grounded, allow the very tip of the switch to lightly touch the intake manifold near the carb, connect the single wire to it and you are good to go.
Grounding did nothing. Not sure on relay. Thanks.If your relay and timer are working properly after you momentarily ground the wire for the sensor, then your only problem is in the sensor. These use a snap switch. It is either on or off. They are cheap and available on Amazon. Just get a 160 or 175 degree snap switch, mount it so it's case is grounded, allow the very tip of the switch to lightly touch the intake manifold near the carb, connect the single wire to it and you are good to go.
In my '79 Mitsubishi truck that I owned, I had an issue with a glass fuse. It LOOKED fine so I was looking farther up the electrical chain for the issue. The fuse had opened at the end where you could not see the break. Drove me nuts for a while. Bottom line is ALWAYS use VOM to check the integrity of the fuse.Inline fuse also replaced even thought it looked just fine . Opinions? Thanks guys.