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Down the rabbit hole... 1995 FJ80 Progress Thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter mrbeethoven
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The fill plug is on the upper right in that pic. The square head plug.
They look a bit dry.
Get a couple tubes of Valvoline Palladium and a cheap harbor freight grease gun and put about half a tube in each side then drive it and see if the look changes.
Clean off the plug with a wire brush, clean off the dirt, unscrew it and stick the grease gun nozzle in there and pump away. Depending on the gun it could be 40 pumps or 200 pumps.
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Over time you will see a "line" of grease that shows a fill level on the ball.
Right now, you're pumping into a cavity that can handle a full tube if empty without actually packing the birfield. It takes a second tube per side to pack it but that's also disassembly.
If you are pumping away and it continues to puke out through the plug hole, stop. But actually push the nozzle into the hole when filling, as that will help it squish around inside there. This method you can't really overfill it.
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I hear a high pitched whine while running.
There are a few things it could be.
Simple first to more expensive and difficult.
1) do you have cogged belts on the fan/alternator?
2) could be the bearing in an idler pulley is starting to go out. There is one on the alternator set and one on the AC set.
Depending on you deafness and type, you may be able to use a long thin rod to touch one end to the bolt head of the idler pulley and the other end to your cheek bone in front of the ear to hear or feel the vibration of a bearing going bad. (Done while engine is running, look out for moving parts!)
3) alternator brushes are getting worn and it's starting to whine under load. Replace with a reman Denso unit from RockAuto.
Post a pic of the alternator belts with engine off.
Post a video of the engine running and start on one side of the truck under the hood and move slowly across and around the front of the hood, up and down around the engine while pointing the camera at things like the alternator, idler pulley, AC compressor, and exhaust manifold. This will allow us to see and hear changes in noise to better pinpoint an area.
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Definitely change your belts to OEM (they're cheap) and it will eliminate a noise / vibration.
The belts that are on it are fine until you can get to it. They're just noisy.
It also sounds like you may have a crack starting at the wye pipe on your exhaust down pipe where the two come together just before the catalytic converter. Many have had an exhaust shop weld it. I paid a guy $20 to do it for me. Eventually save up for a replacement exhaust system. (Search "Bosal for $200" to find a thread with complete parts list)
Alternator sounds OK.
Otherwise, I hear no out of the ordinary ticks, clangs, or knocks. It sounds good.
Looks like you have the typical leaks associated with the 1FZ:
Valve Cover Gasket
Spark Plug Tube Seals
PCV Valve grommet
Oil pump seal
front main seal
distributor o-ring
Power steering hoses
Transmission cooler hoses
Also do oil fill port cap (or at least a new seal on an OEM cap)
New PS Reservoir Cap (includes a new seal)
None of these look urgent, just things to put on the list.
All in all, I think you got a great deal and nothing is catastrophic on this one!
Look into changing out vacuum hoses and maybe a new intake hose for the future.
Here's where I get the majority of my stuff:
toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com
www.partsouq.com
The belts that are on it are fine until you can get to it. They're just noisy.
It also sounds like you may have a crack starting at the wye pipe on your exhaust down pipe where the two come together just before the catalytic converter. Many have had an exhaust shop weld it. I paid a guy $20 to do it for me. Eventually save up for a replacement exhaust system. (Search "Bosal for $200" to find a thread with complete parts list)
Alternator sounds OK.
Otherwise, I hear no out of the ordinary ticks, clangs, or knocks. It sounds good.
Looks like you have the typical leaks associated with the 1FZ:
Valve Cover Gasket
Spark Plug Tube Seals
PCV Valve grommet
Oil pump seal
front main seal
distributor o-ring
Power steering hoses
Transmission cooler hoses
Also do oil fill port cap (or at least a new seal on an OEM cap)
New PS Reservoir Cap (includes a new seal)
None of these look urgent, just things to put on the list.
All in all, I think you got a great deal and nothing is catastrophic on this one!
Look into changing out vacuum hoses and maybe a new intake hose for the future.
Here's where I get the majority of my stuff:
Toyota Online Parts | Genuine Toyota Parts | Toyota Parts Online | OEM Toyota Parts
Find Toyota OEM parts, Genuine Toyota Replacement Parts online, Toyota accessories online. This Toyota parts catalog includes discounted quality parts you can trust because they’re made specifically for your vehicle.
toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com
As for the floor wetness, read up on clearing the sunroof drains (in the pinch welds down by the frame). All it takes is a zip tie.
And find the round plugs for the rocker panels, may have some water in there too.
I only glanced at the whole thread so please disregard if any of this has been mentioned before.
And find the round plugs for the rocker panels, may have some water in there too.
I only glanced at the whole thread so please disregard if any of this has been mentioned before.
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Awesome. May have to do it a few times. There are also rear drains. Driving through dust/mud/grime over time can also block the bottom exits.
Find those rocker plugs and drain/dry that out too.
You can use dielectric grease to re-lube any door seals if you think they are aging a bit. Rub on, wipe off excess the next day.
Find those rocker plugs and drain/dry that out too.
You can use dielectric grease to re-lube any door seals if you think they are aging a bit. Rub on, wipe off excess the next day.
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No, not the correct steering gear.
It's less expensive to rebuild the one you have and most likely you can just adjust it unless it's leaking a lot. There is a screw on top with a nut for adjustment. Search videos here in this forum. You can buy a rebuild kit for the pump and here is a highly detailed video of this.
Pass along this website to your mechanic. He definitely needs it if he's trying to buy parts for a 4-Runner.
Shocks:
Buy the original stock Tokico shocks from the sites I posted earlier. Bilsteins are expensive comparatively and won't give the life.
Exhaust leak:
You can drive it for years on the exhaust leak. You will get worse gas mileage because of it. However, the upside, is if you can't hear, it won't bother you!
(It's really not that loud.....I drove mine like that for two years with no issue. I only fixed it because it was my DD and I could hear it on the higway.)
How are the brakes? Specifically the front rotors? Do hey work OK? Do they feel like they work? Are the rotors grooved?
If you need new rotors, then I would say push towards a front axle rebuild.
Here's what I would do, in order, to spread out my cash flow:
1) New tires
2) New shocks
3) Fill the knuckles with Moly grease.
4) Adjust the steering box or replace it. There is a place recommended here to rebuild you box for you, but I think it's about $500, but you do the R/R on it. You can also look at a used box. See below.
5) Brakes: You don't mention anything about the brakes in his list but you mention they are soft. The brakes can be affected by the wheel bearings as well. They kind of go together in this list. Check the wheel bearings for play and adjust. (35 LB-FT on the inner nut while rotating and 45 LB-FT on the outer nut then lock down BOTH nuts with the star washer) If your FRONT brake rotors are shot, then you will need to have the front wheel bearings repacked. This will be about $300 for labor and a couple seals just for the wheel bearing repack. If brake rotors are needed, then it's pads, rotors, probably calipers, and hoses. (guessing $400 in parts + $200 labor. Yes, all that will need to be dug into again if you rebuild the axle later, but if it's about cash flow, do the minimum.
6) Fluid changes. Change the fluids in ALL. Engine oil, front and rear differential, transfer case, and transmission. The fluid EXCHANGE on the transmission is the way to go (not a fluid flush!) and this is done with about 5 GALLONS of transmission fluid and pumping it out through the cooler in the front. Just cost of fluid is about $100.
7) Airbag light. Follow the FSM to diagnose and re-set the airbag light. Odds are it just needs reset. (Labor to diagnose.)
8) Lube your shafts and check your nuts. Lube the U-Joints and yokes on the front and rear driveshafts. Make sure the nuts on the bottom of both front knuckles are torqued to 72 LB-FT.
Engine leaks and exhaust leak are a ways down the list to make it safely driveable.
Follow my order I posted in post #6. Safety is pretty high on the list.
Tires
Shocks
Brakes
Steering
Airbag (Airbags are not REQUIRED, but they can improve safety)
Two used parts folks that you could use for a good used steering gear are:
@arcteryx (texas)
@slow95z (georgia)
Just make it so you're not going to kill busloads of Nuns and Kindergartners!
