- Thread starter
- #41
No I did not. I do not believe I will be using it. The seal against the fender is tight even without the bolts being tightened or the clips being seated.
Beige fender pads for LX450? (3 Viewers)
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At www.partsouq.com you can put in your vin number. That helps when trying to find color specific parts.
Cheers
Cheers
Which often supersed, in vehicles of this age, to whatever colors may still be available.
- Joined
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Thanks for all of the info. The 4Runner -B5 pad is gray I believe... I like the match. Im working on the same LX flare as you are. Im going to get one.
- Thread starter
- #46
Thanks. Looked it up on www.partsouq.com, contacted Amayama and confirmed they are not supplied to Toyota (by the manufacturer) in beige any longer. Had to find the closest match based on available colors... thus the 4-Runner B5.
- Thread starter
- #47
Also for what it's worth... If you are reinstalling cladding like I am, I wanted to make sure I was using the correct 3M tape... so I contacted 3M.
3M called me today and let me know that the product they supply to Toyota/Lexus is their EX4000 line (most likely EX4011). This is not available to the consumer, and the closest equivalent is the 3M molding tape (06384). It only comes in 1/4" and 1/2" so it will need to be cut down as most of the tape on the cladding is 3-4mm or 1/8".
3M also recommended using their adhesion promoter (06396) to get the best possible bond to the cladding.
I ordered both but still might wind-up using the 1/8" VHB tape that I purchased a few months back. Not sure what 3M part number it is, but I suspect it will work well-enough.
3M called me today and let me know that the product they supply to Toyota/Lexus is their EX4000 line (most likely EX4011). This is not available to the consumer, and the closest equivalent is the 3M molding tape (06384). It only comes in 1/4" and 1/2" so it will need to be cut down as most of the tape on the cladding is 3-4mm or 1/8".
3M also recommended using their adhesion promoter (06396) to get the best possible bond to the cladding.
I ordered both but still might wind-up using the 1/8" VHB tape that I purchased a few months back. Not sure what 3M part number it is, but I suspect it will work well-enough.
- Thread starter
- #48
Now starting the long/tedious task of cleaning and re-adhering the cladding clips. I’m guessing that 75% of the clips broke off during removal.
- Thread starter
- #49
Almost thought I had lost some of the clips until I realized that not all of the possible locations contained clips.
As a matter of fact if you look at the door there are areas where they skipped punching holes for some reason.
If I had not noticed this I may have accidentally glued clips back on into the wrong places.
As a matter of fact if you look at the door there are areas where they skipped punching holes for some reason.
If I had not noticed this I may have accidentally glued clips back on into the wrong places.
- Thread starter
- #50
If you look closely you will see a number that is etched into the plastic that has a number on it that corresponds with the clip number to be used in that row
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
QFT / another 1st-hand example - pulled ~15yo 80 flares, no body paint wear.
-Pulled Bushwhacker Tundra flares from truck, were dealership/Rock Warrior part - I have wear into the paint since grit slides behind their single-side gasket.
- Thread starter
- #52
I see value in adding the tape to the other side of the fender pad, but am also concerned about adding difficulty to positioning the flare and/or potential gap created by the adhesive tape. In some ways I wonder why Toyota decided it was necessary for a pre-2000 Land Cruiser but not necessary for 2000+ 4-Runners.
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
^^^ You think necessary was the change, I bet build cost / ease of assembly was the deciding factor.
The single tape / Bushwhacker way is chachi AF - I’m running flareless ATM on the tundra until I blend paint/feather in where the gasket rubbed. I can show you what ~5yrs of flares does - my OE paint is clearly down into the primer on all 4 corners of the Tundra.
You’re comparing a $55-60K 80 platform in 1997 dollars to a ~$40-45K unit in 2020 dollars.
Look at a 1997 4runner - aside from a few creampuffs, most look worse than the average 80 from then - build quality cost $$.
The single tape / Bushwhacker way is chachi AF - I’m running flareless ATM on the tundra until I blend paint/feather in where the gasket rubbed. I can show you what ~5yrs of flares does - my OE paint is clearly down into the primer on all 4 corners of the Tundra.
You’re comparing a $55-60K 80 platform in 1997 dollars to a ~$40-45K unit in 2020 dollars.
Look at a 1997 4runner - aside from a few creampuffs, most look worse than the average 80 from then - build quality cost $$.
Dissent
Questioning my life choices...
Dear lord that's a LOT of holes! The project looks great, keep posting up pics!
- Thread starter
- #55
For anyone curious how the white fender pads look on a white LX450... here is your comparison. Looks like bathroom caulk to me. Not a fan.
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
The top 2 pics look totally passable to me (but I also just can’t get excited over flares) - TBH.
Don’t get me wrong, your paint looks nice & the overall 450 looks quite creampuff-ish - I just am 180* out from you in that I don’t snorkel & flares are just there to let you know you should pull’em.
But more power to you, you’re determined to find a quality way to your end-desire.
.........(as an aside, I saw a med slate silver 4Runner (the last body style before the current funky bumper/grill ones) - in the grocery parking lot - the gaskets were like champagne gold compared to the flares & body)
———————————
You’re already painted, but I dig flareless/weld shut / no liner FZJ’s - classy IMO.
Cleaner lines.
But in years coming, I bet alot of guys will thank you for running this down so exhaustively.
Don’t get me wrong, your paint looks nice & the overall 450 looks quite creampuff-ish - I just am 180* out from you in that I don’t snorkel & flares are just there to let you know you should pull’em.
But more power to you, you’re determined to find a quality way to your end-desire.
.........(as an aside, I saw a med slate silver 4Runner (the last body style before the current funky bumper/grill ones) - in the grocery parking lot - the gaskets were like champagne gold compared to the flares & body)
———————————
You’re already painted, but I dig flareless/weld shut / no liner FZJ’s - classy IMO.
Cleaner lines.
But in years coming, I bet alot of guys will thank you for running this down so exhaustively.
Oh boy...Just read though all three pages of this because my LX450 is currently at the body shop awaiting a repaint of the lower body mouldings and flares. We decided not to pull any of the pieces and mask/paint on the truck for fear of clips breaking, but we did pull all of the old fender pads/gaskets to do so and now I'm in the same damn boat trying to find an alternative to black. Unfortunate for me, I won't be able to match the rear flare section that is unique to the LX450 unless we leave that section and hope to find something that matches close enough. @mtkreitz, do you have any finished photos of your project yet with the 4runner pieces? I'm wondering if that's what we'll need to do as well. I keep hoping to run across someone who's holding onto some of the OE stuff...but I think that's a pipe dream at this point.
- Thread starter
- #58
No finished photos yet. Been getting all the clips glued back-on the panels and 3M VHB tape ready. I need to double-check the tape thickness to verify that 45 mil is the right thickness or if I need to find something a bit thicker... I should be able to get them all installed this weekend. I will post up pictures once complete.
- Thread starter
- #60
I believe there was an engineering failure at Toyota (or Lexus) in-regard to the cladding mounting system. In all my years of working on Toyota's I have never seen something like it. The cladding was definitely designed to stay attached to the vehicle, but like all things Toyota, there has to be a way to disassemble/service it.
The plastic clips 90467-11103 appear to have been "designed" to break off at the attachment point to the cladding mounting tab. The plastic is thinner and perforated (red arrows) as-if designed to break off cleanly, leaving the cladding mounting tabs attached to the cladding. Unfortunately as any person who has de-flared will surely agree, that does not happen (more than 50% of the time) and the mounting tabs on the cladding detaches before the clip breaks.
If you retain all of the cladding mounting tabs (like I did) they can be reattached to the cladding with epoxy. This is actually how they are attached to the cladding at the factory. It was interesting to see writing on the inside of the cladding (in English) that read "Ready for epoxy". I can assure you the cladding had never been removed previously. As a matter of fact, had I known the pain this would have been... in retrospect... I would not have removed them and did as @ELSIE80 is doing.
It would be great to have STL files for each of the different cladding mounting tabs in the event one was lost or broken. I had to scavenge one for the drivers fender from a wrecked LX450 (thanks Jackson), but I too had thought about having one 3D printed.
It is a lot of work (for sure) to reattach the cladding, and its not because I love the look. I mean I don't mind it, and I think the flares make it look a bit more aggressive in-stance... I guess I just want to keep the truck close to what it was (aesthetically) since I do not wheel much anymore.
The plastic clips 90467-11103 appear to have been "designed" to break off at the attachment point to the cladding mounting tab. The plastic is thinner and perforated (red arrows) as-if designed to break off cleanly, leaving the cladding mounting tabs attached to the cladding. Unfortunately as any person who has de-flared will surely agree, that does not happen (more than 50% of the time) and the mounting tabs on the cladding detaches before the clip breaks.
If you retain all of the cladding mounting tabs (like I did) they can be reattached to the cladding with epoxy. This is actually how they are attached to the cladding at the factory. It was interesting to see writing on the inside of the cladding (in English) that read "Ready for epoxy". I can assure you the cladding had never been removed previously. As a matter of fact, had I known the pain this would have been... in retrospect... I would not have removed them and did as @ELSIE80 is doing.
It would be great to have STL files for each of the different cladding mounting tabs in the event one was lost or broken. I had to scavenge one for the drivers fender from a wrecked LX450 (thanks Jackson), but I too had thought about having one 3D printed.
It is a lot of work (for sure) to reattach the cladding, and its not because I love the look. I mean I don't mind it, and I think the flares make it look a bit more aggressive in-stance... I guess I just want to keep the truck close to what it was (aesthetically) since I do not wheel much anymore.
