Builds bcomnes' 1991 3FE FJ80 Build (1 Viewer)

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No warning just sudden oil pressure drop, i spun two rod bearings, semi easy fix just by pulling the oil pan but could have been much worse. pull the pulg out, get a grub screw and tap the whole and red locktite it in, its not a given it will pop out but theres no warning and you will be stuck dead in the water if you have it happen
 
Looks like this is a good thread:

 
looks like a good thread. no need to remove the heater tube or put the little cloth nugget in the hole though either
 
Yeah, more details in a this problem thread:


Seems heat related. I suspect this aftermarket starter thats in it is getting heat soaked. Once everything cools off, it cranks and starts great.
 
Finished the vapor canister fix today. Installed the Duralast Vapor Canister VC120. Hardest part was getting the old hoses off.

I capped the now un-used intake downpipe with a vacuum cap, and re-used the old mount for the OEM canister on the VC120. The VC120 is a bigger diameter, so it doesn't fit flush inside the old mount.

What I did to re-use the mount:

- buy longer M6 bolts to clasp the two mounting brackets to the new canister
- Attatch one side of the lower bracket to one side, and the other side of the upper bracket to the opposite post. Mounting feels extremely stable.
- I replace the old hoses with new fuel line hoses.
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I also just got some magnet sticks and mirror on a stick, and was able to properly observe the galley plug for the first time.

Looks dry, but getting that project onto the TODO:

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I had the oil pan gasket (12151-61011) replaced the other day. Was a bit out of my capability right now, technically not allowed to do wet work at my current rental so I took it to Pro Auto in St. George.

So far very happy with the results:



I'm still getting some oil accumulating on the bell hosing, but its a lot less than before. It could be another (slower) leak, or just leftover oil from the oil pan leaking its way out. Not sure.

Only other wet spot is under/around the spark plugs. Do those leak? Any other common 3FE leaks?

Things have slowed down enough to actually make a oil dye test worth while.


Oh also, while I was getting the oil changed, I threw on a neodymium magnet oil pan plug:


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I had the oil pan gasket (12151-61011) replaced the other day. Was a bit out of my capability right now, technically not allowed to do wet work at my current rental so I took it to Pro Auto in St. George.

So far very happy with the results:



I'm still getting some oil accumulating on the bell hosing, but its a lot less than before. It could be another (slower) leak, or just leftover oil from the oil pan leaking its way out. Not sure.

Only other wet spot is under/around the spark plugs. Do those leak? Any other common 3FE leaks?

Things have slowed down enough to actually make a oil dye test worth while.


Oh also, while I was getting the oil changed, I threw on a neodymium magnet oil pan plug:


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Your engine side gasket could be leaking. It is right below the spark plugs. Or valve cover gasket. Or oil galley plug is starting to go. All are in area of plugs. Plugs should not be leaking.
 
> Or oil galley plug is starting to go

That part was dirty but dry. Definitely monitoring this.

> engine side gasket could be leaking

Possibly, need to research this and investigate more.

> Or valve cover gasket.

Just replaced this along with the lifter gaskets (I think thats what they are called? The little round ones).
 
Changed out the sway bar bushings today. Very easy, just some WD4, and a socket and impact wrench. Newbie question I had was if I needed to jack the car up to do it, and the answer is no! Sway bars are not weight bearing. Also, detaching sway bars on trails for extra flex/clearance seems to be a common tactic, but most of you probably know that.

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I used 48815-30050 for the front swaybar and 48815-30080 for the rear swaybar. The rear one seemed slightly too big, compared to the front bushings, but generally appear to be serving their purpose fine. It could be because I have a full float rear axel and it needs a different bushing? Are you supposed to grease these before putting them on?
 
Changed out the sway bar bushings today. Very easy, just some WD4, and a socket and impact wrench. Newbie question I had was if I needed to jack the car up to do it, and the answer is no! Sway bars are not weight bearing. Also, detaching sway bars on trails for extra flex/clearance seems to be a common tactic, but most of you probably know that.

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I used 48815-30050 for the front swaybar and 48815-30080 for the rear swaybar. The rear one seemed slightly too big, compared to the front bushings, but generally appear to be serving their purpose fine. It could be because I have a full float rear axel and it needs a different bushing? Are you supposed to grease these before putting them on?
I don't think you need any lubrication on a rubber bushing, no.
 
Did some Father’s Day wheeling. Nothing to crazy since I was solo.

It was 103-5F and fully exposed out and the temp gauge wouldn’t stabilize anytime I had the ac on. It kept getting closer to red, so backed off the ac and would turn on the heat/blower and it would stabilize.

Bummer. New rad and an extra fan maybe could help here?

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