Builds 1985 JDM 3B Engine Rebuild and Other Stories (3 Viewers)

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New fog light switch: these will power the front lights on the ARB:

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New stop lamp switch:

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Glove box hinge:

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Glove box striker:

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A single new register... all the other ones have been replaced to the “open/close” style:

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New defroster vent ducts for each side of the dash (these are unisex):

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And a new parking brake switch:

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New HVAC control assembly. Mine does not have AC (it’s an FST, after all):

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And the back lit lamp for the controls:

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Installed:
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Amazingly how smooth a new HVAC control assembly is new. It comes with all of the pivots pre-greased with OEM body grease. I add a bit more.

All of the cables were replaced as well.

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You can see how they attach to the control assembly itself:

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And the sucker built and ready to be installed:

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Ok. Back to the build. Enough parts porn for today. :)
 
What, no RHD to LHD swap while you're at it?!?
 
Next was a new combination switch/stall. Old one worked fine but the color on the positions were all gone and, well, it is a 35 year old part.

Old one goes into the bag for a rainy day:

The switch is manufactured by Tokai Rika which is an old Japanese electronics/switch company... basically anything electric that allows human-machine control and interface...They pretty much make all of the switches for Toyota

You can read about their product line here:


Hello,

This is interesting. LHD combination switches do not have grommets, whereas RHD ones do.

It is good to replace the old switch. Aside from fading, lo/hi beam terminals lose contact as they age and all of a sudden high beam is gone.

Keep up the good work.






Juan
 
Much of the subsequent posts are going to be new OEM parts I’ve been collecting for years now.

Many of the components you see here are basically updated part numbers from the old -90K00 nomenclature to the -60000 numeralization. This standardized and rationalized the 7x series within the -60000 Land Cruiser numbering system.

Most of the suppliers are still the same, as well.

The rear scuff plate used to be chrome metal. Not a fan. Newer 7x trucks use a nice ruggedized version.

And of course, the holes line up perfectly in the rear body member. Direct fit.

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That rear scuff plate is so much better than the chrome version. Does the end caps also come that way too?

Edit: Nevermind. I see it is one piece unlike the three piece chrome version. Quite an improvement.
 
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New dash reflectors:

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Decided to go with a black dash bezel assy vs the color-matched version. Gives it a bit more utilitarian look. This is a direct fit and comes from later 7x trucks:

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New parking brake handle cover in black:

Hello,

A couple dumb questions.

I noticed the reflectors are all black. In pre-1999 models, they house the glow and air filter warning lights. Does your truck have these lights? I understand soft top implies extra simplicity of sorts.

Do reflectors for warning lights have different part numbers?

Regarding the center panel, it bolts on a bulkhead/bar that in turn bolts to the rest of the dash, using two bolts. Make sure the bulkhead/bar bolts are properly torqued before installing the panel. Otherwise, vibration/rattle will tear it to pieces.

I learned this the hard way: a mechanic forgot one of the bolts, and I broke two panels before I noticed it was missing.

Looking forward to see the completed dash and interior.





Juan
 
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That rear scuff plate is so much better than the chrome version. Does the end caps also come that way too?

Edit: Nevermind. I see it is one piece unlike the three piece chrome version. Quite an improvement.

The end pieces are actually now integrated into the pinch weld fascia piece that covers that over.

I’ll take a pic tomorrow Matt... pieces just arrived recently from Toyota.
 
Hmmm 2 weeks work for you, 2 years + for me. Learning with every post
 
The interior installation has begun. This is good stuff now. Putting a jig-saw puzzle together.

First off was the tilt steering. The swap went fine and everything was as it should be. Took a bit of wiggling, cursing to get the key cylinder in, but with a bit of pick-work, that eventually gave in too.

This little snap ring is a PITA... for the upper intermediate shaft:

it.
Had to compress the bracket onto the shaft to get the groove popped out.

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This is the break-away bolt... it sheers to allow the bracket to collapse in case of an accident:

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When it reaches its desired torque rating, the head of the bolt snaps off leaving a weird cone-like head.

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Not for accidents but, that little bolt is actually a theft deterent device so the ignition switch and generally steering wheel lock can't be removed with ease. It has to be removed with a chisel to start unscrewing it. Ive had the pleasure of having to remove probably a couple of hundred of them while doing ignition recalls.
 
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