Build - Time for LS swap... (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Apr 30, 2020
Threads
2
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157
Location
San Antonio, TX
Hey everyone.. so it’s now my turn for a ls swap on my 91. 3FE just isn’t cutting it. So I picked up a DBW 2004 5.3ls with a 4l60E and had relatively low mileage so I couldn’t pass it up. Got everything from the yard to do the swap.. gas pedal, ac and power steering lines uncut so it’ll be easy to mock up what I need and bring to a hydraulic shop to fab it up.

Anyhow engine got delivered last week and promptly started to remove upper intake, exhaust manifolds (yard even left the mid pipe that has the cats uncut.. unbolted everything so those bends and cats could be reused in fabbing up the exhaust). Waterpump on order as well as the tensioners and idler pullies easy to do it now. Rear main seal will be replaced as well as that oil plunger thingamajigger.

Going to go with mechanical fan route that bloc did using a 2014 Chevy Silverado 2500 fan clutch and a 19” fan from the vans.

Things on order:

- Marks 4wd adapter: MFK1195AE
- Muscle car oil pan kit on order: NAL-19212593
- Summit Fan Kit: SUM-380457-SH
- Dirty Dingo LS Street Rod Complete Adjustable Engine Mounts: DD-LS-SR-CM
- ACDelco 15-40520 GM Original Equipment Engine Cooling Fan Clutch: Amazon
- ACDelco 15785087 GM Original Equipment Automatic Transmission Control Lever Cable: Trailblazer Cable - PN 15785087
- Delphi AS10017-11B1 - Delphi Ignition Knock Sensors: DFP-AS10017
- Fel-Pro BS40640 - Fel-Pro Rear Main Seal Cover Gaskets
- Fel-Pro MS98016T - Fel-Pro PermaDryPlus Intake Manifold Gaskets
- Wix Filters 33737 - WIX Filters Fuel Filters
- GMB OE Replacement Water Pumps 130-7340 (Used Gen4 waterpump)
- Melling Oil Pumps M295: MEL-M295
- Corvette Servo: 700R4 4L60E Corvette Servo
- Denso Supra Fuel Pump 950-0155

I know I'll also need some assorted intake hoses and pipes, heater hoses, fuel line and assorted connections..

Will the 91/92 radiator still work as they moved to a 3 core design 93 and up?

So some stuff I need clarity on as I’ve been researching on everyone’s swaps is stuff like the exhaust manifold... seems like in the beginning center exit was the thing and cleared great and now I seen the hooker cast ones with rear exits working best. Opinions?

Going with these exhaust manifolds:
- Hooker LS Cast Iron Exhaust Manifolds 8501HKR

I also read somewhere that the trans cable from like a Trailblazer works best so I plan on getting this one:
- ACDelco 15785087 GM Original Equipment Automatic Transmission Control Lever Cable

I need to find that thread to switch out the brake switch? I saw somewhere someone had used a different one but I can't be sure.

I've seen where the corvette pedal works a lot easier and just need to swap two pins.... colorado pedal same thing. Some have made the truck pedal fit but had to make their own bracket..

I plan on working the harness, been watching tons of youtube videos on cleaning up the LS harness and as long as you lay it out as if it’s on the engine you have a better idea on what you’re doing. I just need to get the EWD for a 91 so if anyone has one saved would be great. I’ve seen 93 on up but nothing for 91/92.

I'd like to give myself 2 months to complete this project as I plan on using this as our travel vehicle so we'll see... 3 young kiddos keeps ya mighty busy lol..

Anyhow I will try to keep this updated best I can...

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Late update (16 Nov 21) to parts I've gone with:

- I ended up going with a 2007 5.3 (gen 4) water pump since the outlet won't interfere with the intake tube. (I believe thatcabledude gave me that tip)
- AC Delco gen 4 thermostat housing

- Holley Terminator Xmax stand alone ECU
- GM Genuine Parts 10379038 Accelerator Pedal with Position Sensor
- Holley EFI 554-121 Air Temp Sensor

- Low Dollar Motorsports 7/16”-20 UNF Female 100 PSI Pressure Sensor PN: 7990100-716

- CJ Tatton 2" front DC drive shaft (so far it's working but order was sloooowww)

- ICT Billet LS Truck Intake Manifold Rear Brake Booster Vacuum Port Plug 4.8L 5.3L 6.0L LQ4 551927-PLUG

- GPI racing aluminum radiator (it's working so far)

- 2003-2017 Chevy Express 2500 Fan Blade AC Delco 99876GS

- Added OEM steam port tube

- Gates K060923HD FleetRunner Micro-V Serpentine Drive Belt

- Gates 20230 Premium Molded Coolant Hose ( works great for lower rad hose just needs a little trimming)

- ACDelco 12588670 GM Original Equipment Timing Chain Damper Kit with Bolt, Retainer, and Spacer

- Cloyes C-3220 Timing Chain Kit

- ACDelco 36299 Professional Idler Pulley with Bolt, 17 mm Insert, Dust Shield, Retainer, and Spacer

- ARP 2342503 Stud Kit for crankshaft balancer

- Belt Tensioner, Industry Number, 38159

- Automatic Serpentine Belt Tensioner and Pulley Assembly - Replaces 38158, 88929140 - Fits Chevy Avalanche, Silverado, Tahoe, Trailblazer, GMC Sierra,

- Sonnax 4L60 4L60E 4L65-E & 4L70-E Pinless Accumulator Piston Kit

- Borgeson 925121 6AN Steering Box Hose Adapter Kit

- Russell 648060 -6AN adapter for power steering pressure side

- Radiumauto 14-0121 (M14x1.5 inverted flare to 6AN male adapter)
 
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in!
 
Funny you should bring up this swap, last weekend i drove up to the mountains, elevation is right around 7000 feet. On that drive there are more then a few 7% up hill grades, and as i was climbing one of those 7% grades, i get passed by a late 80's Yugo, so i start thinking to myself, maybe it's time for an LS swap.
 
Funny you should bring up this swap, last weekend i drove up to the mountains, elevation is right around 7000 feet. On that drive there are more then a few 7% up hill grades, and as i was climbing one of those 7% grades, i get passed by a late 80's Yugo, so i start thinking to myself, maybe it's time for an LS swap.

Yup... running 35's and not regeared... 3FE can't handle it on any hill grades.. so many more benefits to swapping... parts readily available nationwide.. LS is pretty dependable and power galore..
 
I'm in the middle of doing one in my LX450.
I using The land cruiser shops moor mounts. No cutting, grinding or anything, they just bolt right in.
 
I'm in the middle of doing one in my LX450.
I using The land cruiser shops moor mounts. No cutting, grinding or anything, they just bolt right in.

lol now see... I didn’t come across this info before lol.. oh well. But didn’t include 91/92 though don’t know if they’re any different than 93-97.
 
So when I ordered my Marks4WD adapter I had thought I had the 6 bolt one in the cart and well when it got here, rather quick shipping too from Auz land, I was looking for the 6 bolt adapter... doh... I had the wrong adapter kit in the cart when I ordered...

So I'll be calling them today to have that part shipped. I was also missing that shaft extension piece..

Other than that, parts have been arriving almost every day... Gaskets, oil pump, Hooker manifolds, fuel lines and AN fittings, etc.... A few more things to order like random exhaust pipes to do the exhaust then send out the PCM to get flashed....

Who have you been sending your PCM to get flashed if you've done a LS swap? I'm here in San Antonio and heard Fuel Injected Specialties (FIS) can do it.
 
Before you remove the 3fe, label wires you will likely reuse. Like your temp sensor, oil pressure, starter wires etc. I recommend getting all your wiring planned out before you remove any nuts and bolts. Make yourself a nice wiring diagram. This will make the swap much faster. Also get some nice heat shield material for under the floor and firewall. Get a bunch of wire loom, solder, different color heat shrink, wire of different color and size, assorted wire connectors, and a label maker. Make sure you replace the oil pick up tube oring. The stock radiator will be right on the edge of working or not.
 
Before you remove the 3fe, label wires you will likely reuse. Like your temp sensor, oil pressure, starter wires etc. I recommend getting all your wiring planned out before you remove any nuts and bolts. Make yourself a nice wiring diagram. This will make the swap much faster. Also get some nice heat shield material for under the floor and firewall. Get a bunch of wire loom, solder, different color heat shrink, wire of different color and size, assorted wire connectors, and a label maker. Make sure you replace the oil pick up tube oring. The stock radiator will be right on the edge of working or not.

Thanks for all the tips. Everything will be new for the oil pan, pickup and oil pump. it's basically getting a refresh without the heads coming off.
 
Called Marks 4WD to let them know I needed to order the 6 bolt adapter cuz I accidentally ordered the kit without it and to also let them know I was missing the shaft extension part. They needed a picture of the contents that was shipped so I’m waiting for them to investigate the issue.
 
Marks4WD indeed realized the extension shaft was not included and will be sending that out as well as my 6 bolt adapter. Just waiting on getting confirmation it’s been shipped out.

in the mean time been tearing down the motor to clean and paint. Primer stage at the moment... Valve covers will be black wrinkle and block I’m looking for that grey industrial look. Then accessories can start going back on and replace oil pan.

9CD0D652-0012-404D-952F-4778381068AB.jpeg
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Ive been collecting parts for my swap coming up. I have a 6.0/4L80E to drop in, bought Mark's adapter for the T case and some engine mounts from Land Cruiser Shop that are designed to work with my configuration (no guess work on engine location). I have the summit racing version of the Hooker 8501 manifolds. Still need to figure out an oil pan, Land Cruiser Shop says they have been using the F-Body pan, but they are pricey and the GM muscle car pan seems easier to find cheap...

Im interested to see what you do with the wire harness, this is the one part I havent had time to research yet and planned to figure out when the time comes. Any info you come up with will be helpful.
 
Ive been collecting parts for my swap coming up. I have a 6.0/4L80E to drop in, bought Mark's adapter for the T case and some engine mounts from Land Cruiser Shop that are designed to work with my configuration (no guess work on engine location). I have the summit racing version of the Hooker 8501 manifolds. Still need to figure out an oil pan, Land Cruiser Shop says they have been using the F-Body pan, but they are pricey and the GM muscle car pan seems easier to find cheap...

Im interested to see what you do with the wire harness, this is the one part I havent had time to research yet and planned to figure out when the time comes. Any info you come up with will be helpful.

Nice. Kinda wish I would've came across a 6.0 but I got a pretty good deal on this low mileage 5.3. Same here, been collecting parts and now it's show time. Running the same Hooker manifolds. I'll be using Dingo motormounts and have a friend that can burn those in for me as well as help me route my exhaust. I went with the GM Muscle car oil pan set up.

At first I was going to have someone do the swap for me but as I watched more and more YT.. it didn't seem that hard and a lot of folks have already paved the way. Right now I have my harness on a 4x8 laid out and I'll be starting to de-pin what you don't need. I believe I can get the EWD from alldata that will show me from what I need from the toyota harness. If you plan to go that route or purchase a LS harness, get some quality loom and electrical tape or that fabric tape. I also seen some YT videos on those chinese LS harness and so far for a pre-made harness it has been working for them... I plan to do mine myself though.
 
Quick little update...

6 bolt adapter and spline extension piece is scheduled for delivery today from Marks4WD. I can then get ready to pull the old motor out and start getting it prepped.

In the mean time waiting for the rest of my adapter parts, motor has been cleaned and mostly buttoned up. AC and steering bracket needs a little cleaning and matching grey paint. Intake will go on during the last install of motor and trans.

corvette servo has been added to the 4L60E while it’s out.

Rear interior of the 80 has had some sound deadening added... working my way forward.

Also been slowly picking away at the harness

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BFC8D65B-C5A8-43CD-ACB7-4E7B1804B8AB.jpeg
 
I have the pedal from the donor truck... however looking for more of another version that is more straight as the Silverado kicks to the right. I’ve heard the Colorado pedal works.. maybe the corvette and just swap the sensor?

looking for something like this
2E054E02-681C-4340-BF22-F6C30E975DE7.jpeg
 
I used the silverado pedal. You should be able to cut the OEM toyota pedal and weld it to the base of the GM pedal. Thats what I did. Building the bracket to hold the GM base is tricky though. Not much room to mock-up and measure. Mine used the two OEM bolts that originally held the toyota pedal and one bolt from the plastic piece that protects the wiring harness in the firewall.
 
I used the silverado pedal. You should be able to cut the OEM toyota pedal and weld it to the base of the GM pedal. Thats what I did. Building the bracket to hold the GM base is tricky though. Not much room to mock-up and measure. Mine used the two OEM bolts that originally held the toyota pedal and one bolt from the plastic piece that protects the wiring harness in the firewall.

Thanks! that was my next choice to hack up the factory and mate it to the GM one... was just trying to avoid that.
 

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