Determining if this rust will be an issue (1 Viewer)

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Cool - thanks for that. Will definitely do so. I do plan to go OEM for the filter, but any reason not go with Wix or NAPA?
Those two brands have been shown to be the kiss of death for Land Cruiser Engines. Seems odd, but there are 10 documented cases (still "unproven") but enough for me to stay away from and I've been a lifetime Wix user.
 
Change heater hoses and heater valve that is all original, any hose with cotter pin is factory.
 
Hi All,
However, one of the things that I'm also looking at is the rust underneath the vehicle as well.

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3rd pic down in your first post shows the inner side of the LF wheel and the knuckle. The large ball that the knuckle rotates on is dry, has some "rusty" kind of areas. That area should be slick with grease or shiny and wet. There is a square plug on the upper right of that knuckle (in that picture) that gets removed and you pump grease into that hole. It needs to be a moly grease such as Valvoline Palladium.

If there was oil dripping out of that area, we would tell you that you have "birf soup" and need new internal seals. You may still need that, there's just not enough grease or oil in there to produce either condition.

So....Check ALL fluid levels and do a complete baseline of the truck of changing all fluids and filters to create a "new" baseline. Make sure you keep records of what you do and when you did it and what part numbers you use. And DON'T use a WIX oil filter or a NAPA Gold.

I've been doing some additional research on this.
What are your opinions on getting new cv joints vs just the rebuild kit? How would I know which one I should get?

I'm also wondering if I should bring a grease gun and some moly grease to lube it up when I pick up the car. I have to fly up to Oregon to get the vehicle and then drive it back down to Los Angeles ~ 1000 miles.
 
I've been doing some additional research on this.
What are your opinions on getting new cv joints vs just the rebuild kit? How would I know which one I should get?

I'm also wondering if I should bring a grease gun and some moly grease to lube it up when I pick up the car. I have to fly up to Oregon to get the vehicle and then drive it back down to Los Angeles ~ 1000 miles.
Check ALL fluid levels.
Engine Oil, Transmission Oil, Transfer Case Oil, Front and Rear differential Gear Oil, Brake Fluid, Power Steering Fluid, Coolant level and type and cleanliness. You can take it to an O'Reilly's parking lot and ask them for tools to assist, or you can go to the area, buy some Harbor Freight Tools, and carry them back with you. Same with fluids. The most critical fluids will be the engine oil and coolant.
If any are low, make sure you add the CORRECT TYPE of fluid. Coolant must match in color. (unless it's brown)

Drive it.
Make a list.

Always do things in this priority order:
1) Make it run
2) Make it stop
3) Make it drive
4) Make it safe
5) Make it reliable
6) Make it pretty

Whether or not you need a kit only or will also need the Birfields will be determined with driving it. I drove mine for 25K miles before I dug deep into my list. Prior to that, all I did was cleaned off tinting from front windows, replaced windshield wiper, fixed Left mirror
 
What Bilt4me said and sure, bring the grease gun it if you can. 1000 miles is a lot to drive if you don't know its true condition.
 
Do what Bilt typed. Check in luggage with tools. Oil and Zerex Asian coolant can be had at Walmart.

Is this thing driven occasionally?
 
Do what Bilt typed. Check in luggage with tools. Oil and Zerex Asian coolant can be had at Walmart.

Is this thing driven occasionally?

Not sure - my friend picked it up and kinda wanted something else so really unsure of the history. He said it runs and drives but no history from PO. Looks like I'll spend a day up there checking the fluids at an O Riley's or something similar.
 
Well, you suggested a 40, so I figured you'd be OK with a clapped out junker that won't pass emissions :hillbilly: What is the age cutoff for CARB?
Not sure - my friend picked it up and kinda wanted something else so really unsure of the history. He said it runs and drives but no history from PO. Looks like I'll spend a day up there checking the fluids at an O Riley's or something similar.

How far has your friend driven it? Any issues during long test drives?
 

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