- Thread starter
- #41
Here is the body tub wet blasted, epoxy primed and ready for some more body work prior to painting.
Builds Another FJ40 to FJ45ish Thread (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter franken45
- Start date
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rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Pretty solid skills! This definitely looks like a fun build let me know if you ever need an extra set of hands.
Who shot the primer?
Who shot the primer?
- Thread starter
- #43
Thanks! It s a fun build for sure and further along than I have had time to post. The guy who did the wet blasting actually did the the first coat of primer in the picture. It was a deal I couldn't turn down. I think he charged me like 60 or 80 bucks more to shoot it with primer on top of what it cost to wet blast it. I was really happy with his work and with the price. I have a sand blaster but I hate sand blasting and so this was a no brainer for this part of the project.
Looking forward to putting those new seats in the rig. Measured them tonight and I think they are going to work pretty well with the setup for my full roll cage. Thanks for meeting today to make the handoff on those seats.
Looking forward to putting those new seats in the rig. Measured them tonight and I think they are going to work pretty well with the setup for my full roll cage. Thanks for meeting today to make the handoff on those seats.
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- Thread starter
- #44
Shooting lizard skin noise and heat insulation on the underside of the cab. Several coats of this to deaden sound and heat and protect from the crap on our roads in the winter.
- Thread starter
- #45
Cab on the frame. The tires are a worn out set of 37’s for scale. I put them on for later help figuring the fit up for body panels, bump stops , etc. Plus, I had them sitting around.
- Thread starter
- #46
I realized there are some details that I probably should have posted as reference related to the modifications to the radiator bracket for use with the FJ80 power steering box. As you can see I had to relieve the radiator bracket and then weld in new support structure. I used 4130 chromoly for the modification for extra strength.
- Thread starter
- #47
Here is my solution for plumbing the pressure side of the Toyota 3b power steering pump to the later FJ80 power steering box. I could not locate a factory hose for this application so I bought aeroquip hose and the appropriate fittings from Earls and fabricated my own pressure side hose. For some reason it took me a while to come to this obvious solution so I’m posting it here as one example of how to deal with the problem..
Awesome build. Can you pls share part numbers on fittings?
- Thread starter
- #49
I don't see that I have the part numbers right now but its pretty easy stuff to find. JEGS, Summit and Earls should all have this stuff at decent prices.I used steel AN6 hardware for the line and connected that to an AN6 to 16x1.5mm inverted flare fitting which was identified specifically as a power steering adapter. The hose was identified as high pressure power steering hose by Earls. There appear to be at least two styles of these adapter fittings. One has a rubber O ring and one just has a hard seat inverted flare. You want the one with the regular inverted flare without the O ring. I had to use a 90 degree AN fitting on both ends to route my hoses the way I wanted them routed. You pretty much have to use at least one 90 degree fitting at the pump due to clearance issues. I tried to find these locally at my local hydraulic shops and it was a waste of time. Best to just take these specs and order what you need from your favorite speed parts seller. I hope this helps.
- Thread starter
- #50
A little paint and a test fit for the hood, fenders and front bib. Actually, there were quite a few steps in between here but I figure everyone has seen enough body work pics to last a lifetime. So I didn’t add those here.
- Thread starter
- #51
Test fit for the hard top, doors, etc. things are fitting up just fine thankfully. Next is disassembly of the doors to redo those and then build the internal roll cage.
47coeman
Love those 45's
What is the distance from the bottom of the cab to the floor at the door, and how are you going to get in and out.
- Thread starter
- #53
32 inches from the ground to the actual floor board. The roll cage has a grab handle. I just finished welding that up. I’ll post a pic when I take one.
- Thread starter
- #54
Here is the roll cage before paint. For those that wondered about get into the truck you can see the grab handles I mentioned. They work nicely.
47coeman
Love those 45's
TNX for the reply, mine is 35 with no running trans or motor. I have guesstimated to add about 1200# in that process with all of the things to Complete it. Ran I t across the scales yesterday and so far it comes in at 2440# so it should be under 4K in weight. The question with that number of added weight aprox 1200# what is your opinion on the spring crunch may see. 60 rear in front and a Chev 63” in the rear springs. I also have a handle to assist in getting in.
- Thread starter
- #57
I honestly have no real idea about how much the truck might drop with the extra 1200 pounds. I put my engine into the truck fairly early to get the weight on the frame. Hard to really say but it sounds like you must have a spring over as well so you have a lot of lift any way you cut it. Best of luck with your bulid.
47coeman
Love those 45's
Ya it is spring over, calculating changing to spring under it may get it to low. So the things I will do is 4” with weight possible of reaching the springs a bit maybe get a inch or two if I am lucky, shorter shackles get me a little. Let’s say a total of 6” overall. That will got me to 29” from ground to cab, and I was hoping for 24 maybe I can live with that, and TNX’s for your input.
- Thread starter
- #59
Starting to get the new wiring harness routed. Long way from home at this point. This is a generic painless wiring harness so some mods are required. I could not find a land cruiser specific harness unfortunately.
47coeman
Love those 45's
Wondering if you could get me some measurements off of your windshield if it is the stock one. I have been told the 66-75 were the same. My rig was a 70 so I am in your ball park. What I need is the placement of the windshield motors and the exact measurements of the holes that the motors go through the windshield. Of course the spread or distance between them center to center. Second where they are layed out as to distance from the edge of frame where the glass goes in. I sold mine W/O taking that into consideration. I have a safari window I am using and want to use the original set up because of my roll cage has been fabed with the units I had. Your help would be really appreciated. My rig is Skips 35 in this section if you are interested.
Best Skip
Best Skip
