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Everything looks normal so far. Crank is solid at 350 pounds of torque. It aint moving.Still can’t turn the crank? Maybe put something under the front of the engine for support, and see if the crank will turn.
Everything look normal at the timing chain too?
No. Piston #'s 1 and 6, 2 and 5, 3 and 4 are on the same angle of the crankshaft so they travel together.Am I thinking of this right, should all the piston pars be an equal distance down from the head surface, so if you had a bent rod, that piston would be off?
I'll go measure the depth of each. Broken crank sounds bad. And expensive.No. Piston #'s 1 and 6, 2 and 5, 3 and 4 are on the same angle of the crankshaft so they travel together.
That being said, I went back and looked at the pics. Unless it's a horrible optical illusion, #1 and 6 should be at the same elevation and so should 2 and 5.
I think you may have a broken crank between 2 and 3.
I'll go measure the depth of each. Broken crank sounds bad. And expensive.
#1 = 1 3/4
#2 = 3 9/16
#3 = 9/16
#4 = 9/16
#5 = 3 9/16
#6 = 1 3/4
I think that's better news, or no?
Yeah, that’s what I was meaning. The piston pairs (not pars ) should be at the same depth.No. Piston #'s 1 and 6, 2 and 5, 3 and 4 are on the same angle of the crankshaft 2 and 3.
I was almost hoping for a bad head gasket, or something that would at least put the "why" to rest.Only way I can fathom a broken crank would be a hydraulic'd cylinder. Engine starting to stumble....person 'revs' engine to revive it.
What has me stumped....is we still can't reconcile the coolant on top of the head and that fact that the engine only ran a few short seconds.
That's great news!#1 = 1 3/4
#2 = 3 9/16
#3 = 9/16
#4 = 9/16
#5 = 3 9/16
#6 = 1 3/4
I think that's better news, or no?
And the crankshaft not turning at this point is a head scratcher.What has me stumped....is we still can't reconcile the coolant on top of the head and that fact that the engine only ran a few short seconds.