Replacing the Alternator on the GX470 (2 Viewers)

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peytonkristen

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Location
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I bought my wife a 2008 Lexus GX470 about a month ago. It's a one-owner, like new with 80,000 miles, has all maintenance records from the dealership, and seriously.... is like new. Not a dent or scratch or any wear.

So yesterday the alternator goes out before I've had a chance to do much of anything to it, much less get a good look at it, mechanically speaking. All the records indicate recent service on everything but the timing belt and water pump and that's planned in the near future.

In looking for references for the alternator job I don't find much. So I thought I'd add a little about how I did mine.

I took the alternator out through the PS fender well (unlike some of the videos and apparently the FSM and others instructed).

Tools needed (that I can remember).. Sockets: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm. Phillips Screwdriver, several various extensions and accessories. An air ratchet with extension and knuckle is helpful.

To begin:
1. Unhook the battery.
2. Remove all of the covers over the radiator, top of engine, and left side over air canister.
3. Remove overflow tank (its just in the way)
4. Release pressure on serpentine belt by way of tensioner.
5. Loosen lug nuts on PS front tire
6. Jack up and secure with jack stand, remove wheel (don' forget to chock rear wheels).
7. Remove front splash guard (in front of strut tower)

At this point you can see the Power Steering Pump through the hole above the frame. This is where most of the magic happens.

8. Remove the front skid plate.
9. There is a hose directly in front of the lower alternator bolt that is held in place by a bracket. Loosen the bracket so the hose can be moved a few inches. The bracket is held by a 10mm bolt/phillips head.
10. Through the holes in the Power Steering pulley you can access the nut and bolts that attach the Power Steering pump to the backet. Remove these to access the pump bracket. The pump will not come all of the way off until the bracket is removed. Loosening the pump allows you to access all of the bracket bolts.
11. There are four bolts holding the Power Steering bracket. I did the bolts facing left with 14mm sockets and extensions. Knuckles help on the lower one. The bolts facing forward were loosened with ratcheting wrenches. There is very little room and I actually used a large box-end wrench over the open-end 14mm wrench as an extension here. Remove the bracket completely and the pump will move out of the way enough to allow the alternator room to come through the hole.
12. Unhook the electrical on the alternator. One is a plug and the other is a nut. Under the alternator is a bolt holding the wires in place, remove this from underneath the truck.
........Continued......
 
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13. Under the truck, push the hose out of the way enough to remove the lower alternator bolt. Remove the remaining nut and bolt for the alternator. Space here is tight so you may have to get creative with the tools on hand.
14. Push the Power Steering pump out of the way and turn the alternator so it comes through the hole in the fender well. This may take a few tries but it will come out.
15. There ya go... Now just reverse everything, putting in your new alternator and you're done. Easy as that... haha.

No, this wasn't easy. It wasn't too hard either. It took more time trying to figure out what to do next more than just being difficult. It took me about 4 hours but I think I could do it now in about 2 hours.

HERE IS A GREAT LINK ON TESTING THE ELECTRICAL TO DETERMINE IF THE ALTERNATOR IS BAD OR NOT.
RockAuto October Newsletter :: Early Edition

I'll post some pics from my phone. Hope this helps the next guy.
 
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Pics

1101161305.jpg

Pic of hole where alternator will come out. Power Steering pump is loose and hanging with the bracket removed.

1101161306.jpg

Pic of Power Steering pump bracket after removal.

1101161308.jpg

Pic of hose obstructing lower alternator bolt. Bracket is loose allowing hose to move out of way.

1101161309a.jpg

Old alternator is out. Threaded hole is visible where bracket for electrical wires is attached.
 
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Great write-up. Bookmarked for future reference. Thanks!

What alternator did you replace the bad one with?

@DanKunz I believe you have a recommendation on a higher amp alternator. Do you have the link for it?
 
Its in my build thread
 
Great write-up. Bookmarked for future reference. Thanks!

What alternator did you replace the bad one with?

@DanKunz I believe you have a recommendation on a higher amp alternator. Do you have the link for it?
I just used the remanned Denso from Oreillys. It's the same, 130 amp alternator, that came factory. Plus, it has a lifetime warranty.

Rockauto has the same one but it is about $30 cheaper. I didn't have time to wait and thought it best to get something like this locally.
 
Just knocked this out on my 07 GX, it's definitely not a fun alternator job but it's doable in an afternoon.

Ratcheting wrenches, and good socket extensions and wobbles, are a must for this. You definitely have to get creative for half of the bolts.

Thanks for the DIY!
 
I have a lot of things. Stock is 130. The truck uses 90. I added more than 100 more.
 
I have a lot of things. Stock is 130. The truck uses 90. I added more than 100 more.

Got it, so to power fridge, communications, lights, etc? Just so the alt can handle powering all that stuff then I take it.

So is National a better/tougher/longer lasting brand for an alt?
 
Power running stuff and to charge dual batteries. All the other stuff is off the battery. Plus a 60A stereo circuit, etc.
 
Hey Dan, was it plug n play? Or did you have to run a heavier gauge positive cable for that output ?
 
All new cables, buses, etc
 
I bought my wife a 2008 Lexus GX470 about a month ago. It's a one-owner, like new with 80,000 miles, has all maintenance records from the dealership, and seriously.... is like new. Not a dent or scratch or any wear.

So yesterday the alternator goes out before I've had a chance to do much of anything to it, much less get a good look at it, mechanically speaking. All the records indicate recent service on everything but the timing belt and water pump and that's planned in the near future.

In looking for references for the alternator job I don't find much. So I thought I'd add a little about how I did mine.

I took the alternator out through the PS fender well (unlike some of the videos and apparently the FSM and others instructed).

Tools needed (that I can remember).. Sockets: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm. Phillips Screwdriver, several various extensions and accessories. An air ratchet with extension and knuckle is helpful.

To begin:
1. Unhook the battery.
2. Remove all of the covers over the radiator, top of engine, and left side over air canister.
3. Remove overflow tank (its just in the way)
4. Release pressure on serpentine belt by way of tensioner.
5. Loosen lug nuts on PS front tire
6. Jack up and secure with jack stand, remove wheel (don' forget to chock rear wheels).
7. Remove front splash guard (in front of strut tower)

At this point you can see the Power Steering Pump through the hole above the frame. This is where most of the magic happens.

8. Remove the front skid plate.
9. There is a hose directly in front of the lower alternator bolt that is held in place by a bracket. Loosen the bracket so the hose can be moved a few inches. The bracket is held by a 10mm bolt/phillips head.
10. Through the holes in the Power Steering pulley you can access the nut and bolts that attach the Power Steering pump to the backet. Remove these to access the pump bracket. The pump will not come all of the way off until the bracket is removed. Loosening the pump allows you to access all of the bracket bolts.
11. There are four bolts holding the Power Steering bracket. I did the bolts facing left with 14mm sockets and extensions. Knuckles help on the lower one. The bolts facing forward were loosened with ratcheting wrenches. There is very little room and I actually used a large box-end wrench over the open-end 14mm wrench as an extension here. Remove the bracket completely and the pump will move out of the way enough to allow the alternator room to come through the hole.
12. Unhook the electrical on the alternator. One is a plug and the other is a nut. Under the alternator is a bolt holding the wires in place, remove this from underneath the truck.
........Continued......

Thank you. Great write up.
 
So I just spent a few hours doing this job, and found a much easier way to get the alternator out than to remove the power steering pump bracket, or sway bar. I have attached two images, and the bolts you remove have red arrows pointed at them. They hold what I believe are lower radiator hose lines in place, and once removed allow you to gently push them out of the way to fit the alternator through. You do not need to remove the sway bar, however, removing the right front passenger tire is still advisable. Hopefully doing it this way save people a lot of time and headache. Thanks.

Dave
 
Old thread, new entry...

Just replaced my alternator moments ago. Drove up on ramps, dropped the skid plate and sway bar (just the pivot brackets), disconnected the battery, popped the serpentine belt, disconnected all the brackets and wire guides mentioned above, removed the power steering pulley, yanked the alternator and disconnected its wiring, then installation was the reverse. Took about an hour. Don't bother removing the wheel or messing with the power steering pump mounts, just pop the pulley off (17mm nut). Alternator fits through the bottom if all those hose brackets are removed and the sway bar is rotated out of the way. Not the easiest alternator swap (2000 Ford Ranger) but not the most difficult (1991 Honda Civic).
 
Also a Sequoia alternator is another higher amp alternative If you want to stick with Toyota OE.
 

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