What's original on my Jun 71 engine? (1 Viewer)

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Location
Houston, TX
Been trying to figure out what is original on my engine and have given up. This is a 1971 jun 40 with a F-247543 block. I am pretty sure the previous owners have done some modifications and I am trying to get this closer to a version of stock.

Things I can tell:
- Carburator is a single barrel. A bunch of the wiring looks janky and non-stock (see small 1/8" hard line over the header.
- F155 sticker is still on there.

Any info or if anyone can point me to a thread that might help, that would be great. I can take more photos if needed.

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The engine looks to be older. The block number is older than 1969 Land Cruiser Engine Numbers according to the SOR chart. The dizzy is older also carb is not correct for a 71.
JP
 
Looks pretty close to my 1971 Fj40. Minus you having a single barrel carb and what looks like a vaccum advanced distributor.

The hard line over the block is correct, that's the fuel line to the carb. It looks to be bent differently to fit a 1 barrel carb vs a 1971 2 barrel carb.

Your ignitor is fliped upside down.

Your pcv valve I belive is the older kind that's fitted onto the engine oil fill tube.

But all the other wires and vaccum hoses look okay.. At least from what I can tell.

Here is my Fj40 when I first got it 3 years ago. I was adjusting the valves in the pic.

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… Been trying to figure out what is original on my engine and have given up. This is a 1971 jun 40 with a F-247543 block. I am pretty sure the previous owners have done some modifications and I am trying to get this closer to a version of stock...

Some info and pictures that may help.

SOR carburetor identifier page ...

Pictures of my March 1972 engine bay restored & mostly stock.

Pictures of May 1970 engine bay as it sits in my outbuilding.
(I will never get to this project and need to sell it but that is a topic for another post).

The top portion of the battery tray and old style die cast fuel pump may still be available from Toyota.

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Here's an option to explore for a carburetor.

I've gone through the effort of rebuilding vintage Toyota carburetors for the '72 and another rebuilt and waiting in a box for the '70.
I was tempted to try one of these Chinese knockoff Toyota carbs, about $70 complete, brand new w free shipping but already had bought an old Toyota carb.
With the rebuild kit, I'm probably into the old carburetor for $120 plus at least a full day of work.
At the time the knockoffs were about $100, now around $70.

Just installed a Chinese knockoff of a mid 1970's Carter 2 barrel carb on a Jeep CJ7 that I'm building.
Bought it from Maxspeedingrods.com
$62 including shipping, All new including the electric choke and vacuum actuators.
Looks great, works great, Plug & play the thing started right up and runs beautifully at any speed.
Adjusted the idle jets and the choke position, that was it.

The FJ40 model is not an exact year match for your '71 but may free up some time to work on other parts of your truck.

Good luck.

Cleg

Knockoff FJ40 carb.jpg
 
The small 1/8 inch hardline going over the valve cover is correct. It is a vacuum line and usually is routed along with the fuel hardline.
 
The small 1/8 inch hardline going over the valve cover is correct. It is a vacuum line and usually is routed along with the fuel hardline.

I was just about to ask that.

This is awesome. Thanks for all the help. I guesss there was a heart transplant in the past at some point.

But, it sounds like there is more stock in the bay than I anticipated, just stock for 1969 (or 67). I can focus on cleaning up hard, and electrical components. And flip the igniter. Or did I miss something?
 
I was just about to ask that.

This is awesome. Thanks for all the help. I guesss there was a heart transplant in the past at some point.

But, it sounds like there is more stock in the bay than I anticipated, just stock for 1969 (or 67). I can focus on cleaning up hard, and electrical components. And flip the igniter. Or did I miss something?

Looks pretty original.
Your oil filler pipe has a side connection on it for what looks like a crankcase vent hose that is not on the May 1970.
By '72 the oil fill was through the valve cover.

I think the inline fuel filter should be before the fuel pump along the frame rail below the battery tray.
In the picture from my 1970 it is positioned in the line from the pump to the carb but I think that is incorrect as is the garden spigot water shutoff valve protruding from the back of the cylinder head.
 
Yep, distributor is the non-smog vacuum advance from prior to 1969/70, but it's a good home run, it will give about 24 degree mechanical advance, then vacuum advance (on demand) to over 40 degrees- - -keep it.
 
You should check to verify the vacuum advancer is still good (holds vacuum and rotates the breaker plate that the points are mounted to).
 

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