The "Official" 1HZ/1HD-T/1HD-FT Airbox/Intake Mod Thread (2 Viewers)

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I raptor coated it today and will be putting it on tomorrow unless it doesn’t clear the injector lines and needs to be modified
I have been curious about a front inlet manifold like this. Please report back once it all goes in!
 
D9CCFD72-4AF5-4226-ACFD-4C8D573140CE.jpeg
Well it does fit but I’m gonna rework it just a little bit because I’m not liking the clearance between it and the injector lines
 
Nice work. I have a chunk of pipe and a cut manifold I was going to do the same with. Any one interested throw me a PM.
 
Hi all, I purchase a 4-inch stainless snorkel and airbox from Radius fabrications last Thursday. I was wondering if anyone has installed an aftermarket airbox to there factory 1hdt turbo. From my measurement, the turbo size is 70mm and my airbox is 4 inches. Wondering what sort of bend's and tubing you guys have used to join it all together. Also what you've done with the factory sensor I believe it is that plugs into the standard airbox.

Cheers Bryce.
 
Hi all, I purchase a 4-inch stainless snorkel and airbox from Radius fabrications last Thursday. I was wondering if anyone has installed an aftermarket airbox to there factory 1hdt turbo. From my measurement, the turbo size is 70mm and my airbox is 4 inches. Wondering what sort of bend's and tubing you guys have used to join it all together. Also what you've done with the factory sensor I believe it is that plugs into the standard airbox.

Cheers Bryce.

Do they not provide the piping and couplers for the airbox when you're paying that much?!?
 
So I just got done fitting the TORFAB airbox to my 1HDT with G Turbo Green Wheel running 20ish psi. The box shipped with a 3in outlet to the turbo and 4 in inlet drawing from the fender so I had to go out and get a fab shop to make a different front plate to make it a 4in outlet. I was worried about still leaving efficiency on the table with a 3in outlet as it seems the best is 4 in and 4 out. The results are nice and I'm very pleased other than having to get a 4in outlet made myself. I was led to believe because of the previous conversation on this thread that the box was already 4 in and 4 out.

RESULTS:

Obviously there was no scientific tracking going on but I'm fairly certain my EGTs dropped 50-100 degrees overall and before I could hit 1250 with ease and now I'm pretty stable at 1100 with my foot in it hard. Boost before the box was set at 18psi spiking to 20-21psi and now not touching fuel or the boost controller I am now boosting to 22-24psi (im guessing due to the amount of vacuum created by the stock airbox). This was the last piece to my puzzle before I go to a much larger turbo.

This was the box with 3in outlet.

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Here is the box after the new 4in outlet was made and pipework fitted. Also as you can see the new plate has a barb so that I could continue using my Racor catch can. I was initially worried the silicon elbows may collapse under boost but so far it has not. It must be flowing quite well. Much more compressor noise can now be heard which puts a smile on my face.

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So I just got done fitting the TORFAB airbox to my 1HDT with G Turbo Green Wheel running 20ish psi. The box shipped with a 3in outlet to the turbo and 4 in inlet drawing from the fender so I had to go out and get a fab shop to make a different front plate to make it a 4in outlet. I was worried about still leaving efficiency on the table with a 3in outlet as it seems the best is 4 in and 4 out. The results are nice and I'm very pleased other than having to get a 4in outlet made myself. I was led to believe because of the previous conversation on this thread that the box was already 4 in and 4 out.

RESULTS:

Obviously there was no scientific tracking going on but I'm fairly certain my EGTs dropped 50-100 degrees overall and before I could hit 1250 with ease and now I'm pretty stable at 1100 with my foot in it hard. Boost before the box was set at 18psi spiking to 20-21psi and now not touching fuel or the boost controller I am now boosting to 22-24psi (im guessing due to the amount of vacuum created by the stock airbox). This was the last piece to my puzzle before I go to a much larger turbo.

This was the box with 3in outlet.



Here is the box after the new 4in outlet was made and pipework fitted. Also as you can see the new plate has a barb so that I could continue using my Racor catch can. I was initially worried the silicon elbows may collapse under boost but so far it has not. It must be flowing quite well. Much more compressor noise can now be heard which puts a smile on my face.

What did you do with the piping from the box to the turbo, completely silicon? did you reuse any of the oem pieces? Its a great looking compact piece
 
What did you do with the piping from the box to the turbo, completely silicon? did you reuse any of the oem pieces? Its a great looking compact piece
It has a 2.75 to 4in silicon elbow at the turbo + a small piece of metal 4in joiner pipe with a slight bend + 4in 90 degree elbow at the box.
 
Thanks @torfab I'll look into that mod, I saw someone else did something similar. I figured the lid mod would help mitigate any airflow restriction from the Safari snorkel. On top of that i'll be adding a pre-filter so there may be additional restriction from that.
 
Do you have an upgraded turbo? The snorkel will kill the turbo if it's upgraded. That's your main restriction at this point. Look at the Nitro troopy that we installed the 1HD-FT into. We put an air control valve on his airbox so the airflow isn't restricted by the snorkel
 
It's a stock CT26 at 10 PSI (Gturbo OEM replacement). Carl's truck? Is that on your FB? Seems like a good idea, I think he has an upgraded Gturbo if I recall, I ran with him in Moab last year.
 
You should be fine at 10psi, but it might be a good idea to check vacuum while under full power to see your numbers between the turbo and air box. It's a turbo killer, because the turbine wheel will suck itself forward and kill your bearings/seals.

Amazon product ASIN B07CT821B1
You can also install one of these between turbo and filter housing and you can check highest vacuum any time
 
Thanks, appreciate the insight. I'll report back with some data once I have the vacuum gauge installed.
 
Originally inspired by @J2P I went with the Duramax air box on my 1HDT. I believe the one I got was from a 2005 model. It came with the 90 off the box along with the flexible pipe which was helpful. Here's what I got to start with.

Bo8hO4j7LwnMd7O6nnbkTorujVScdVof13hrH85jFqFvk2W01ThHD_7Tvo2JE-oSf_eaIY3qrJQKHGvjXIJ2AhjHKs0iiBEgmOHWsXyuA1ZATnWb-00xkp13JivtVxhK_Gy8unjhG1YN3J0Exc015JC7mmVB5fwrET59IfkY31Eq5ZonYvA_SAURqX0ZPNDFxc6TBftBFkuL1VMSmujqttloB3KHFn2KhBEnSA9nup5ImnWRdeD94jcWfC5OodW0syZgYWt2mf-I4Durt5kMZb3Y2_6HVk5T5pi6oHwk1O2gYi5-oYCAFtrN9InEOwq_fj_j2CRQ3yo7TPZe2QDkDpO0aKTGHXjmdCyzmgvLe-o_Jjtku8cQ3YBirgZFXTMexmrXeI3Xz3cA97aOui70-hBxcNT-9cPyOpjGeGqZ9xx6mtSwWvAhhuoaVcRAji-Oa3h7SZAWHi7ONRYk9J0_2058dRqvHldecubIEAjFIFKFm_EjK87sEYciFnzuGnRIqAXGKQNRz-jHXI0PKGIHvENYjvWjc19nrS_OpcMjVRH4hjkYk6NSdQ-TqQich7dqlNPs3uJ05OreRryZgYwY1i5b8mFsApV4gUquku6BTsquOjk1UI6v3fQ5-jUU89Ui1eqfjOqguEFFskGJXMGpcQRpN50QfRd20Rhbuv0xdUlFUR4ufzJPsw=w1600-h1200-no


I trimmed off the bottom and bought a 4" to 3" 90 reducer (I have a MMP turbo, so the 3" is what works for me).

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I didn't want to drill new holes in the wheel well to mount the box, so I bent aluminum flat bar and used the factory mounting locations. Here's the box trimmed and upside down to show the flat bar under the box.

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Small bent piece of flat bar at the front right location

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Fixed with the two mounting points to the box:

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Installed...

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It's not quite done I guess. I'm going to pull it back out and paint the aluminum flat bar and I still need to close the fender gap to the air box. I also plan to clean up the wiring, so i'll get the wiring done first and then figure out something to close the gap. I have military spec terminals coming for the battery, and a bus bar that I'll mount somewhere for power connections.

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