Binding at full lock when steering (1 Viewer)

[bart007]

Hey guys, long time lurker, first time poster. I have a 95 80 series with about a 5" lift, it was already on the vehicle when I got it. I did a caster correction using offset bushings and added 36" Iroks. First time out, I just about wrecked from the steering being very stiff when starting to turn and more of a steering lock up when going to full turn. Heres what I have done so far, I removed the new steering shock and check steering afterwards, no change. Rebolted the steering shock back, I did note the tie rod does rub the control arms at full lock. I figured, well there it is. I decided to convert to front Y steering using one ton steering components and have ordered everything for that swap. Today while I was adding a 1" Dobson spacer to the front for leveling purposes, I checked the steering while the left frt wheel was off the ground. Steering went full lock to lock with no issues. Now I am wondering if my binding is from something else. Any ideas? thx

 

[voodu3]

If you have a 5” lift and only off set bushings for caster correction there is no way your caster is anywhere close to spec. With that much lift you need At least 10* of caster Correction. Does it have stock radius arms? Have you had it aligned? I bet if you get the caster corrected you won’t have the steering interference. Read this thread Compiling/comparing lift and caster data
It will help with sorting it out. I went through this after my lift it will make huge difference once you get it dialed in.

 

[shocktower]

You need a set of @Delta VS radius arms to get correct caster in you front end , and offset bushings are crap you probably need a different front drive line to make up for the all the bind you put in to the drive train that dude @NLXTACY might have some

 

[LINUS]

Without being a “buy this part” -guy:

I’m a broad stroke, get smaller answers from ot.need smaller sentences.
Just saying as you’re new, - that and cels give stupid (font/indent/para-graph) -cursors.

-I’d like to know whose exact mods & whose corrections (or what degree fixes you’re on) -now to start small / cheap unless you just want ‘fknal answer parts’ for whatever lift specs we can help you from.

That & basics :
- have YOU greased the U-joints or -hit at- all the zerks?
-What other jobs have you done?
-Time yet spent under your own 80?

 

[bart007]

I’d like to know whose exact mods & whose corrections (or what degree fixes you’re on) -now to start small / cheap unless you just want ‘fknal answer parts’ for whatever lift specs we can help you from.


That & basics :
- have YOU greased the U-joints or -hit at- all the zerks?--

I havenr greased the frt drive shafts at all (yet to get to that area) I have packed and cleaned the frt wheel bearings

-What other jobs have you done?

I bought this about 2 months ago and the first month was spent under the vehicle taking care of all of the obvious issues I noticed. Such as, all new rear control arm bushings, ABS delete and new brake lines, new rear brake rotors, new frt and rear extended brake lines, new frt calipers. New O2 sensors, new shocks all around, extended sway bar mounts frt and rear, new steering shock, new 1" coil spacers in the frt for leveling purposes, modified the frt bumper, new 16x10 wheels and 36" Iroks, offset castor bushings from Ironman 4x4.

-Time yet spent under your own 80?

see above, all of the work has been done by me and will continue to be done by me.

 

[bart007]

If you have a 5” lift and only off set bushings for caster correction there is no way your caster is anywhere close to spec. With that much lift you need At least 10* of caster Correction. Does it have stock radius arms? Have you had it aligned? I bet if you get the caster corrected you won’t have the steering interference. Read this thread Compiling/comparing lift and caster data
It will help with sorting it out. I went through this after my lift it will make huge difference once you get it dialed in.

Thanks for the response, I checked my castor with an angle gauge and at first quick glance assumed it was close. I will recheck today and spend more time with my readings. I read through that thread and was hoping I would not need a set of $1000.00 plus arms to get this right. I have not had it aligned yet, it is currently not drivable as is until I can get it close but I am using stock radius arms with new bushings. Thanks again

 

[Coyomog]

When I installed my front lockers it became obvious that the power steering pump was weak. You may have the same issue and it is becoming visible because of the added load of the oversized tires. (You have probably increased your contact patch by 30% over stock tires).

I replaced the steering pump and now can easily turn lock to lock with the t-case in low range and the front diff locked.

 

[BILT4ME]

Simple question:

I assume it has front and rear lockers. Is the front locker disengaging?

 

[bart007]

When I installed my front lockers it became obvious that the power steering pump was weak. You may have the same issue and it is becoming visible because of the added load of the oversized tires. (You have probably increased your contact patch by 30% over stock tires).

I replaced the steering pump and now can easily turn lock to lock with the t-case in low range and the front diff locked.

That was exactly my first impression, mostly due to the fact, when I raised one wheel off the ground, it would steer fine from lock to lock with no binding. I also noticed a bottle of P/S fluid stored in front of the battery and evidence of what looks like the P/S fluid leaking from the top. My concerns was, there was no noise or other strange issues coming from the pump or gear. It does look like the pump will be a decent job to change.

 

[bart007]

Simple question:

I assume it has front and rear lockers. Is the front locker disengaging?

It has the triple lock function and I am assuming its unlocked, no indicator lights are on. I drove this about 5 miles after the tires with few issues, then I installed the offset castor bushings to get the return to center feel back in the steering. After the bushing install is when I noticed the changes. I never drove this veh. before I started the mods Ive done, who knows, the steering may have been jacked up on it from way back.

 

[bart007]

Well, I checked my caster with a degree finder and both sides were right at 4 degrees which is about 3 degrees from where it should be, based on the lift. This should not affect the steering while sitting though. It will steer w/out binding when either wheel is off the ground, one at a time. No issues going lock to lock, but with both wheels on the ground I can hear the steering pump whining some like its against the bump stops. Im thinking I may have a pump that is going bad.

 

[bart007]

Replaced the P/S pump today with no changes to the steering. Still hard when turning, still easy when one wheel is off the ground. One thing I noticed is, when driving it wants to return to center almost too quickly. Like steering against straight line driving. If you lock the wheels to one direction, jack both wheels off the ground, the wheels will self center on their own. This is with the engine running, doubt it would do this when not running. Iam now suspecting bad trunnion bearings. I did pull the front drive shaft but have yet to drive it, trying to eliminate any transfer case issues.

 

[Kay9Cop]

I know you said the lights were off in the dash, but it sounds like the front is locked. Lift the front end and turn one tire.

 

[thatcabledude]

Sounds like the diff is locked.

 

[bart007]

Sounds like the diff is locked.

Yep, you are exactly right. I decided to check the front again before driving with the frt driveshaft removed. I jacked both wheels off the ground and turned one wheel only to see the other wheel going the same direction. Checked the transfer case and CDL switch again, no indicators showing a diff was locked. Figured must be a wiring issue, removed the rt frt wheel and dug through the POs wiring mess when he replaced the locking motor. Seems he wired the frt locker up to a 3 way switch mounted on the console and wired the CDL switch around the window lock switch. I also found a severed wire on one of the harnesses to the motor. The frt was in a locked status but was not showing on the dash. Once I repaired the wiring and figured out the 3 way switch, I was able to unlock the front and it now drives like I figure one of these should.