Builds Live in Texas, drive a pickup: HDJ79 single cab build (1 Viewer)

[bottombracket]

Went back to the turbo to put it on. I was waiting for an OEM turbo to manifold gasket, then realized, stupidly, that I had one in the engine rebuild kit. Look at the thickness of the OEM gasket compared to the aftermarket. Glad I used OEM, as usual.

Also stupidly, I realize that the steps in the FSM are indeed correct. You cannot put the turbo on with the manifold in place. Popped the manifold back off, bolted the turbo up to it, and dropped it in....and it didn’t fit.

Which is stupid thing number three: I put the motor mounts on upside down. I sat here in the barn for longer than I would admit trying to figure out just what the fark was going on. The turbo kept hitting the mount and I couldn’t get it in place. Finally, the astute @davegonz noted that I put them on upside down. Sigh.

Stupid thing number four: broke a mounting bolt. EZ out for the win this time.

Finally in place.

 

[bottombracket]

I popped on the OEM outlets just for fun. This thing is begging for a front mount intercooler.

 

[bottombracket]

Luke from MMP Turbos also threw in a straight compressor outlet adapter, just in case I need to run a top mount. I know that MMP has gotten a bad name on social media, but I couldn’t be happier with my transaction, and this turbo looks like it’s built right. Can’t wait to run it.

 

[davegonz]

Damn, all of those shiny new bits! Virusapocalypse has been good for something.

 

[davegonz]

Is that a thermocouple hole on the exhaust manifold? If not, you should drill and tap for one.

 

[bottombracket]

Dave, since I’m deleting all the EGR crap, I’ll put a thermocouple on after I make a blanking plate for the exhaust manifold.

 

[SNLC]

You are getting ahead of us now. Until we get the turbo and injection pump back from Australia there is not a lot more we can do.

Cheers

 

[davegonz]

Galen, will placement of the thermocouple at the EGR spot give you an accurate temperature? I figure that it might be cooler than at the spot where they all come together.

 

[bottombracket]

Ian, hope that h55 shows up today. That will keep you busy.

Dave, would it be hotter as it is closer to the block? Will need to look into it, but I recall others have drilled it over the EGR.

Back to part numbers:

After over-vacillating for way too long on whether or not to use the oil cooler cover with freeze plugs or not, I just went with the freeze plugs. I need to find a big ass wrench to seat the oil cooler filter screw.

I am still waiting on new check and relief valves and their associated crush washers.

For some reason, I’ve been dying to put the new dipstick on. I found the correct O-ring in my stash and plugged it in. I have no idea why that’s so satisfying, but damn, it is.

 

[SNLC]

Is that oil dip stick tube new?

Cheers

 

[bottombracket]

Ian, yes, 11452-17011. Lost the bag it came in so I couldn’t post the part number.

Got the new dipstick, too.

 

[SNLC]

Ian, yes, 11452-17011. Lost the bag it came in so I couldn’t post the part number.

Got the new dipstick, too.View attachment 2243387

I couldn’t find that for the FT, I came up with NLA. Thanks for the part #, I need that. We got a new dipstick.

Cheers

 

[bottombracket]

Yeah, I’m finding all sorts of little variations. I was able to get a new 12V/55amp alternator from @lowenbrau. Different part numbers, but virtually the same. TheN I discovered that there are two alternator bracket variations. I need 16381-17010, marked with a “1”. I had purchased 16381-17020, which has a “2” mark. Ordered it.

 

[bottombracket]

Last chore of the day. I’ve had a hard time deciding when to draw the line of cleaning versus quitting while ahead. I’ve decided to just leave the oil pump and timing case in place, but the crankshaft pulley was so disgusting I just couldn’t let it go. It had non-JIS bolts holding the pulley on, and it literally looked as if someone had driven through mud. The entire interior cavity of the pulley was caked full of mud all the way up to the center splines. I chipped and scraped and wire wheeled everything, got it semi-clean, and hit it with some chassis saver. I swear this is the last thing I’m painting.

Picture #2 is included because it just looked cool.

 

[77mustard40]

Galen, have you moved your scheduled surgeries to the ranch so you can work on this in between? Progress is never ending and looks awesome ... took me 10 days to finish the birf job on Ole Yeller

 

[SNLC]

Yeah, I’m finding all sorts of little variations. I was able to get a new 12V/55amp alternator from @lowenbrau. Different part numbers, but virtually the same. TheN I discovered that there are two alternator bracket variations. I need 16381-17010, marked with a “1”. I had purchased 16381-17020, which has a “2” mark. Ordered it.

View attachment 2243515View attachment 2243516View attachment 2243517View attachment 2243518

Nearly the same thing fitting a Terrain Tamer alt to a 1hz/1pz. Bolts right in but needs the FTE adjusting bracket to clear the alt housing.

Great stuff here in your thread Galen, lots of good info/part #’s. Which for me is always my second favorite thing about build threads. Watching it actually happen being my favorite.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Last chore of the day. I’ve had a hard time deciding when to draw the line of cleaning versus quitting while ahead. I’ve decided to just leave the oil pump and timing case in place, but the crankshaft pulley was so disgusting I just couldn’t let it go. It had non-JIS bolts holding the pulley on, and it literally looked as if someone had driven through mud. The entire interior cavity of the pulley was caked full of mud all the way up to the center splines. I chipped and scraped and wire wheeled everything, got it semi-clean, and hit it with some chassis saver. I swear this is the last thing I’m painting.

View attachment 2243619View attachment 2243620View attachment 2243621View attachment 2243622

Picture #2 is included because it just looked cool.

I know you don’t want to but you can’t check the oil pump clearances without tearing open the timing cover all the way. I am sure you have looked at the FSM, it shows how to check the oil pump with a feeler gauge to ensure it is all within spec. It is an excellent design and I am sure yours is fine, ours with 105,000 miles was on the high end of the specs but it does give piece of mind for us OCD guys. In my shop we also have a responsibility the home mechanic doesn’t have, so ya up to you.

Cheers

 

[bottombracket]

Kelly, I had a super mild sore throat starting Tuesday night and I didn’t have any cases to do Wednesday or today, so I decamped to the ranch with the dog and have been working on trucks for the past couple of days. It gave me a chance to get quite a bit done. I am 99.9% sure that I do not have coronavirus, just my usual Texas-based seasonal allergies. But I’m glad that I had a couple of days that I could self-isolate and keep away from my wife, kids, patients, and the general public.

Ian, I have gone over whether not to check the oil pump at least one million times. Given that all other tolerances on this motor look so good, I feel confident that it is in good shape internally. And if it ever craps out, I’ve got a brand new oil pump and timing case housing on the shelf, which I should easily be able to access from the front of the truck.

As far as pictures and part numbers go, I learned that from @roma042987- It’s surprising how often I go back to my other threads to find part numbers that I have used. It’s coming in pretty handy so far.

Tomorrow, it’s back to the real world for a little bit of work. I’m trying to get in and out of the hospital quickly, doing just as much as needs to be done without lingering. Things have not gotten too bad here in Austin, but I’m just waiting for the other shoe to drop. We are definitely on edge, waiting to see how bad it’s going to get. Fingers crossed.

 

[roma042987]

I wonder if that pan will work with 1HZ? It is annoying to see all that oil trickle down when changing the filter.

Edit: Looks like it might. Found this link which also shows the bolt p/n as well: 1HZ Oil Filter Catch Tray

Yes. The HZ I put in Tucker's fj40 has that nice little pan. His engine was from a 105.

 

[roma042987]

Galen, had no clue you can use vinegar to remove rust. Did you mix it with anything?