Exhaust system questions (2 Viewers)

[jatree]

Which portion(s) of the exhaust system should I focus on during a baseline? Are there any parts that are definitely replace after 150k miles? Or things that should be done preventatively?

So far I've replaced the PCV Valve and top two ventilation hoses which were both hard/cracked. I'll be ordering the charcoal canister suggested in other threads and hope that it will help some with the smell

A few months ago, my EGR Vacuum Modulator blew/melted on the way back from a long drive. Since replacing, it I haven't had any issues (but haven't driven over 30 minutes either) but I'm wondering what caused it. I also know there is a small leak between the two cats. O2 sensors were replaced 4y (12k miles ago). I believe I have an after-market muffler that is louder than my liking. Many of the small hoses off the intake manifold are hard and I want to replace them. And at some point I want to remove/clean the intake and maybe do a VSV bypass or something though all my EHR-related tests seemed fine.

How do I know if the downpipes should be replaced? Is the aftermarket replacement even good?
On the cats, how would you approach them - get them tested somehow and try to put back together with a new gasket? I'm not sure how to make the decision on that vs replacing with single aftermarket part.

Should I replace everything from the cat-back? Is re-routing over the frame worth it? I hesitate to stray from OEM but also know I want to put a bigger spare down there.

As you can tell I'm trying to figure a lot out so any threads, answers, or advice is welcome. I want to catch up on maintenance and do anything worth doing preventatively, but without going crazy so I can actually drive the thing.

 

[voodu3]

I went down this same road when I started working on my 80. I assumed that with over 200k on the exhaust system it would need to be replaced. I took it to a good exhaust shop and had it checked out and it was good to go. They said run it til something goes. As far as the down pipe and cats check out @OTRAMM
OTRAMM Land Cruiser Repair exhaust videos. When I do have to replace mine this is the way I’ll go. On the top side I’d get rid of anything you don’t need unless you have hard core emissions inspections. Definitely replace the old vacuum lines they will cause running issues when they start to leak.

 

[greentruck]

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. The components are stainless steel, mostly, so have a long lifetime that's hard to imagine if your first Land Cruiser experience was in a 40 or 55 (like mine was.)

Muffler gave out around 160,000 but I live in the Rust Belt. New OEM was outta the budget at the time, so shop welded their (also too loud) muffler in using the old connecting ends. That way I can go back to OEM.

I've also replaced the little rubber thingee that holds up the muffler from hanger back by the resonator. Relatively cheap and easy fix.

If the leak between the cats is a gasket, I'd have them try to R&R, but just remember the perils of taking it apart, and ending up breaking something due to age/rust, which could then get expensive. Same thing applies to the Y-pipe.

Unless you're hardcore in the rocks and getting stuck down to the frame, not sure the over the frame way out is worth the trouble. I can see the point, BTDT, but unless you plan such efforts, maybe not.

 

[jatree]

I went down this same road when I started working on my 80. I assumed that with over 200k on the exhaust system it would need to be replaced. I took it to a good exhaust shop and had it checked out and it was good to go. They said run it til something goes. As far as the down pipe and cats check out @OTRAMM
OTRAMM Land Cruiser Repair exhaust videos. When I do have to replace mine this is the way I’ll go. On the top side I’d get rid of anything you don’t need unless you have hard core emissions inspections. Definitely replace the old vacuum lines they will cause running issues when they start to leak.

Thanks, took some time to find a good shop but finally found one I'm visiting this week. I used to watch the OTRAMM 80 series repair videos and don't think they have a full video but do have the short vids at the bottom of this, good tip Land Cruiser Stainless Exhaust

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. The components are stainless steel, mostly, so have a long lifetime that's hard to imagine if your first Land Cruiser experience was in a 40 or 55 (like mine was.)

Muffler gave out around 160,000 but I live in the Rust Belt. New OEM was outta the budget at the time, so shop welded their (also too loud) muffler in using the old connecting ends. That way I can go back to OEM.

I've also replaced the little rubber thingee that holds up the muffler from hanger back by the resonator. Relatively cheap and easy fix.

If the leak between the cats is a gasket, I'd have them try to R&R, but just remember the perils of taking it apart, and ending up breaking something due to age/rust, which could then get expensive. Same thing applies to the Y-pipe.

Unless you're hardcore in the rocks and getting stuck down to the frame, not sure the over the frame way out is worth the trouble. I can see the point, BTDT, but unless you plan such efforts, maybe not.

Yeah breaking something is exactly what I'm afraid of. At the same time, I think I can get away with a single cat with WA state getting rid of emissions testing.

On over the frame, I was mistaken in thinking I could add room to the spare tire area and since I'm not hardcore in the rocks probably wouldn't go through the extra expense of going over the frame there. Thanks

I'll know more soon but besides the leak and checking flow through the cats, I want to decrease the sound. I think I have an aftermarket magnaflow muffler from the PO and it's loud. Something closer to stock would be right.

An added bonus to working on the system now would be decreasing the exhaust smell during warmup for when I back in and park. I think the large amount of condensation makes it seem worse than it is but I accept constructive feedback occasionally

 

[baldilocks]

At 150k a WA state 80 should have a solid exhaust system except for maybe the muffler. What brand O2 sensors were installed previously? It makes a difference.

All engines run rich at start up and will stink until reaching a certain temp. The charcoal canister is no longer available from Toyota and has nothing to do with cold start up odor. If you really need an evap canister you can get an aftermarket unit from a local parts store. You’ll have to research Mud to find out what people are using now. A lot of us have the Rochester VC120 from autozone but it seems that someone said it’s no longer sold.

I live south of you in Battle Ground, WA and just happen to have my throttle body and upper Plenum removed from my engine right now for cleaning and new vacuum hoses, etc. Today I decided to keep my rig stock as far as all the VSV’s and vacuum hoses go, especially those that are hard to get to just in case I have to sell for some reason and someone from CA or the Portland metro area comes with cash. Having said that, my EGR valve is disabled by doubling back a couple vacuum hoses and my PAIR system has been removed and O2 sensors relocated to the exhaust manifolds. These modifications can be reversed very easily.

I realize yours is newer and does not have the PAIR system. My suggestion is to keep the emissions system as close to stock as possible except for what deletes and disabling you can do without getting to deep just in case you need to sell it. This is important to some buyers. These trucks run many miles/years with the factory equipment and removing it doesn’t net us anything huge. Like someone else said, if it ain’t broke don’t fix it. Welcome to your new world.....

 

[BROMO95]

Bring your truck to A1 Muffler in Everett. Wayne, the owner will make you a complete exhaust system from exhaust manifold back for a reasonable affordable price. Stop by at my house if you like to see his work on my truck. I can introduce you to him if you like. I brought him the cat converter and muffler of my choice and he did the rest for only $350 out of the door.