What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (27 Viewers)

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really got into for president's day, installed a new t-case that we rebuilt a couple of weeks ago with a part-time kit, 3.1:1 low range gear set and 10% high range under drive gear. All parts and labor provided by Cruiser Outfitters.

Also swapped out a tired ARB awning cover took about an hour with a drill and pop rivet gun. this was a super buy of about $30 from Cruiser Outfitters, pretty sure it is the cheapest ARB product I have been able to purchase.

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@mderrick hows the gear whine? I've heard some people say its substantially louder.
 
Added ARB led lights to the bumper! Yes they are almost not even noticeable when I have the retrofitted H1 headlights on, and yes my truck still shakes and vibrates at highway speeds and yes driver side inner tie rod end has dangerous amount of play in it.
But I got my priorities straight!
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Hey bud, where did you get your winch control box mount? I need a more lower profile coz the one I have now is too high.
 
Hey bud, where did you get your winch control box mount? I need a more lower profile coz the one I have now is too high.
The mount came with the bumper. It is a narrow V shaped piece of metal. I had to mount the control box pn the mount first and then mount the bracket on the bumper
I can try to take closer pics tomorrow
 
well been following for months but no posts really... sooo today I started prepping for my Dissent bumper install after the powder coat. Went with Evo gray with black accents so I needed to rid some chrome on the grill. Also used bumper wiring harness to wire bullet led lights for turn indicators and prepped the fog lights for some led 3x3. Still haven’t decided on which to get so I’d hope the forum can point me in a non Rigid direction. I Unboxed my smittybilt x20 10k and Japan 4x4 AHC spacers. Once it’s all on I’ll dial in my pressures and install the King springs. Oh and added my first sticker



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I need to know about this. I miss the luxury of having a key fob!

Check out the thread @Mauser has for Master Key and ECU Reflash. PM him here on the board and he can work out the details with you. Pulling out the ECU and shipping it to him is easy enough to do. The biggest PITA of the whole project is the truck being disabled for the week or so it takes to get everything back and forth through the mail.

Takes less than 10 minutes to reinstall the ECU and program the remote fob to work with the truck once you get it back.
 
Recently painted both bumper covers (which had both taken some hits/been the victims of bad resprays) black, and just got the right side trim reattached after spraying it with color matched touch up spray. What a PITA—will be painting the left side molding on. the. truck. But very pleased with how it all looks.
Would have loved to have just deleted the trim altogether but didn’t want to a) spend thousands or b) futz around with bondo and wet sanding for weeks (can only work on warm days...)

before and after:

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Recently painted both bumper covers (which had both taken some hits/been the victims of bad resprays) black, and just got the right side trim reattached after spraying it with color matched touch up spray. What a PITA—will be painting the left side molding on. the. truck. But very pleased with how it all looks.
Would have loved to have just deleted the trim altogether but didn’t want to a) spend thousands or b) futz around with bondo and wet sanding for weeks (can only work on warm days...)

before and after:

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What brand paint did you use for the trim? Did you clear it?
 
What brand paint did you use for the trim? Did you clear it?

no clear coat on the whole truck—one of the things I like (/hate) about Natural White.

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Completed the hybrid conversion ;)
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A fixed roof mounted panel with a PWM controller isn't the most efficient (but hey, it is cheap). It should help keep my house battery up while running a fridge on days I don't drive the cruiser. I still need to work of my rooftop cable management, but the system seems to be working.
  • 100w Rich Solar flexible panel (ETFE)
    • Rubber door edge guards
    • 3M VHB tape
  • Renogy 10awg PV cables
  • Renogy Voyager Charge Controller (waterproof, PWM, 20A, battery temperature sensor)
  • 20amp circuit breaker at the battery
 
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I almost sank my girl Huey :cry: Florida might not have much mud but I found quicksand and saltwater. Thank goodness the tide was still going out. A good friend with a skid steer cane and rescued us. We almost winched out but the connection to the battery got so hot it it melted. So happy to make it home. Does anyone in here have a wheel winch? I guess I blew a relay. No headlights, blinker or radio but my running lights and brights work. She’s all cleaned up now and has slight PTSD from me driving

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Installed CVJ CV's and replaced the lower ball joints. I was impressed at how well the original wheel bearings functioned and how clean the grease and seals all looked. For 124K miles, I can't say that I have ever seen wheel bearings with such little wear. Even the seals looked brand new. Made me regret buying all new toyota wheel bearings and seals. I guess I'll keep them all on hand for when I really need them.

Side note: Do not apply too much grease to the outer CV shaft, too much grease and it'll hydrolock and make it impossible to get the c-clip back on the outer shaft once its all put back together. IF it does got together, you risk seal damage or worse if any air caught inside gets hot and expands.

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Recently painted both bumper covers (which had both taken some hits/been the victims of bad resprays) black, and just got the right side trim reattached after spraying it with color matched touch up spray. What a PITA—will be painting the left side molding on. the. truck. But very pleased with how it all looks.
Would have loved to have just deleted the trim altogether but didn’t want to a) spend thousands or b) futz around with bondo and wet sanding for weeks (can only work on warm days...)

before and after:

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Looks great where did you get the steel hubs?
 
Did some cosmetic work on my rear leather seats. Over all seats are in decent condition but had some areas of fading and wrinkling that were deep and starting to wear away some of the color. I only focused on the wrinkles and areas well worn where the leather dye was missing off from constant rubbing. I found some products that can patch and fill these areas as well as some leather dye, that is very, very close. From what I've read, over the course of the next month or so the color darkens slightly which should make it a great match! Loving the new look so far and having it not showing its actual age like before!
Sorry I don't have any true before photos. The white stuff is the leather filler which looks and feels just like the leather once it's all said and done.

This is the company I used to locate color by sending them the info (color codes) found on my door tag.
Seat Doctors Mobile Vinyl and Leather Seat Repair

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Looks great where did you get the steel hubs?

The wheels are Toyota P/N 42611-60D30. 16x6, 0 offset. Got them from Cruiserparts--ROW 70 series takeoffs. Pretty sure they sold the small stock they had, though.
In case you were actually curious about the hubs themselves, those are the same ones we all have--most folks have theirs covered.
 

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