Builds 1963 FJ45LP SWB Fixed Top "Sweet Simplicity" (2 Viewers)

[middlecalf]

I’m diggin’ the ash tray. Fits in well for a 60’s rig. Queue Jimi Hendrix.

 

[middlecalf]

Slow is that slow does. But finally got a tailpipe and a few dash things put back.

 

[middlecalf]

And I got the hinges back on, no pics, too boring and common place. When I took them off, the cab was on its roof. A struggle but not anything like putting them back on with cab upright. I cursed the Toyota engineers all the way to the dark bowels of hell. Can’t imagine how they did this on a production line, unless the dash was welded in after.

 

[FJ45VTOZ]

And I got the hinges back on, no pics, too boring and common place. When I took them off, the cab was on its roof. A struggle but not anything like putting them back on with cab upright. I cursed the Toyota engineers all the way to the dark bowls of hell. Can’t imagine how they did this on a production line, unless the dash was welded in after.

done that too, talk about scarred knuckles and a full swear jar..

 

[middlecalf]

copper wire wrap plus the 5mm nut to keep F.D up @pardion

 

[ozcrusier]

1963 seats do you need a look at the back of them easy to pull unbolted.

 

[middlecalf]

No, I’ve got other pics of the backs. I just realized the base of your seats is going to be different because of RHD vs LHD, so the drivers seat is over the tank instead of the tool box. Thanks for the effort. I hope your feeling better and looking forward to more progress on your rig. (BTW, it looks like you have the masonite-like interior panels still in place).

 

[ozcrusier]

It’s a time capsule inside the cabin but the engine bay is where it’s missing parts. I didn’t think about lefty righty oh well not to worry.

 

[ozcrusier]

Masonite

 

[middlecalf]

Oh that’s cool! And you have an interior light - half generation newer has those apparently because mine doesn’t (and you have the windshield brackets, mine is just solid).

 

[middlecalf]

 

[ozcrusier]

If you decide to run Masonite it can be soaked in water and bend to desired shape.

 

[middlecalf]

Working my wire harness currently. If anyone cares I have a question wrt BR wire. See here..

I have a question wrt this BR (black-red) wire and protection. The attached pics are from the Toyota Land Cruiser Repair Manual Chassis & Body manual, no date but the images match what’s on my ‘63 FJ45.

The BR wire originates at the same location on the starter as the heavy white wire, so it has unswitched power. On the early rigs that don’t have ammeters the heavy white wire directly feeds power to two of the terminals on the fuse box. The BR wire feeds power to the starter switch, which then feeds power to the starter (BW wire), coil (BY wire), and the other terminal on the fuse box (via G wire). As other have done as shown in an earlier post I’m going to install a fusible link in the white wire at the starter to protect that circuit in case of a short.
View attachment 2212868View attachment 2212869View attachment 2212870

But what protects the BR wire? It appears to pass directly to the starter switch and it’s smaller than the 10 or 12g white wire so it can’t handle as much current. Should the BR wire be included in the fusible link, if it can? Thoughts? @Coolerman @ToyotaMatt

 

[middlecalf]

This was fun (not ) but it’s in.

The put-the-gasket-on-the-windshield-first-then-wrap-a-string-around-it-to-pull-the-inside-lip-in-place “trick” failed because the available OEM weatherstrip is for the later slightly longer windshields and would not stay in place on the glass of this smaller older glass. So put the weatherstrip in place on the frame, then worked the glass in place with lots of cussing, soap, plastic (!) tools and a much more patient wife as helper, er manager.

Essential tools. All that’s left of the lock strip is about 8”. DONE!

 

[wngrog]

That’s why I’ve not replaced the one on my 68

Good work.

 

[middlecalf]

The rig didn’t have a VR so wasn’t sure which of two locations on the drivers side firewall one mounts one. This one seemed the best. What’s the other spot for? I have two VRs, this one has 10-ohm resistance between F and IG terminals, which is what Rudi @bj40green says is correct IIRC. The other one I have is older I think and only has an ohm or so resistance. Not sure if this is an issue. BTW, had to laugh that the VR is held on with M5 bolts while the horn relay uses M6 bolts.

 

[middlecalf]

So I’m suppose to have a VR that spans both bolt locations that functions with the generator and works with the early wire harness. Parts pic from JP @ClemsonCruiser and FSM pic is from Destin’s early 40 FST build.

Both the VR and generator (and associated harness) are long gone. I have a late 60’s alternator (B, E, F and N terminals) and a couple of 3-wire VRs. In order to keep the CHG light functionality I’m going to have to find a 6-wire VR that has a V relay to work with this alternator or get a GM 10SI alternator with internal VR that has a direct feed to the CHG light (via WR wire) and punt the external VR.

I think.

 

[middlecalf]

My application letter to the Society for the Preservation of Cream Puff Rigs (SPCPR) got rejected. Don’t understand why.

This hole in the middle doesn’t look PO drilled. Wonder what the parts catalogs show. Who knows.

 

[wngrog]

Boo

 

[ClemsonCruiser]

I’m going to have nightmares just from looking at those pics Paul

You’ve certainly got your work cut out for you with that roof.