Ordered my Steering Rack today...what else do I need.....? (2 Viewers)

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just replaced mine on Monday. Oil filter assembly removal is not necessary, remove filter only, then unbolt drives side motor mount from chassis and lift engine up about an inch.

others that have removed the oil cooler assembly have had headaches getting it properly sealed to the block. Engine mount is the way to go.

Notation on motor mount.

Rear-most is bolt and nut, 14mm both sides.
Front is deceiving, from underneath you will see what looks like a nut, but it’s actually a captured welded to mount bolt, also it is 15mm.... so no need to fiddle there, just release the bolt from the top.
 
Notation on motor mount.

Rear-most is bolt and nut, 14mm both sides.
Front is deceiving, from underneath you will see what looks like a nut, but it’s actually a captured welded to mount bolt, also it is 15mm.... so no need to fiddle there, just release the bolt from the top.

Thanks, that should save me some trouble. These aging eyes don't see so well anymore....so that bit of info is helpful.
 
Couple of tips that may or may not have been covered.

Unfasten the fan shroud by removing securing bolts, before raising engine. Shroud gets cracked if not!
Use a flare nut wrench on the low pressure (return line) line. Many damage this flare fitting on DS, by not using proper wrench.
 
Couple of tips that may or may not have been covered.

Unfasten the fan shroud by removing securing bolts, before raising engine. Shroud gets cracked if not!
Use a flare nut wrench on the low pressure (return line) line. Many damage this flare fitting on DS, by not using proper wrench.

Will do, thank you Sir.
 
Well, as luck would have it, my rack went out this afternoon. These things are a beast to drive without any power steering and 33" tires. I'll probably replace the rack, hoses, and pump at this point. Wish me luck.

I've ordered replacement parts, and will document with pictures. Just a heads-up - my rack and pinion separated completely on the passenger side. I'm not sure if this was due to a failed seal, or a catastrophic failure, but had I been driving at highway speeds, it could have been bad based on the look of things.
 
Got a few more 'while you're in there parts' today, but still waiting on others. Have to give a shout out to Cruiser Outfitters again, since they make ordering parts (and especially packages) so very easy.

Got Outer TRE's, New OEM Flanges, Ball joint kit...uppers and lowers, Wheel bearing kits, Snap rings, Jam nuts, etc...
I really like being able to source so many parts from one vendor. Plus they KNOW how rough UPS is going to be on packages, so they pack your order accordingly. Good job guys!

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Still waiting on CV axles, Rotors and some bushings to show up from various places, but we're getting there.
 
make a list when you get a chance. I'm on the way to doing the same with 205k on the truck.

Well....I'm doing some things that aren't really associated with replacing the Steering Rack itself and I'm sure some parts are still serviceable. But since I'm in that area any...I am going to 'freshen up' much of the suspension and drive-train.

My CV driveshafts came in today and against conventional wisdom (go with OEM) I am going to be the Guinea Pig for a pair of NAPA's HD premium offering. I will inspect the OEM's that I take off to determine if they are worthy of rebuilding and IF so, have them serviced and keep them for the future use. In the meantime...I wanted to give these aftermarket units a fair shake.

Since the LX is my Wife's DD and rarely sees any 'off-roading' I am expecting (hoping) these will hold up for awhile. She drives 40 miles a day (round trip) and isn't particularly rough on vehicles. The CV's appear to be of decent quality and manufacture. I did notice when trial fitting the new Flanges to the splines that they are quite a tight fit. In fact...I lubed them with some white Moly grease and still had to 'tap' them into place with a brass hammer (and back off again).

You aren't going to slide these on by hand (initially). I imagine they would better fit flanges that are worn some and no doubt will loosen up with use. But, better 'tight' to begin with than loose.

****EDIT: Correction, Outer boots are the more desirable 'Thermo-Plastic'.


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My CV driveshafts came in today and against conventional wisdom (go with OEM) I am going to be the Guinea Pig for a pair of NAPA's premium offering. I will inspect the OEM's that I take off to determine if they are worthy of rebuilding and IF so, have them serviced and keep them for the future use. In the meantime...I wanted to give these aftermarket units a fair shake.
Keep us updated. What do the cost?
 
Rotors showed up...as well as my 'lower' LCA bushings, but of course...the Uppers didn't make it yet. So no point starting without them.


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Those NAPA CV units look pretty beefy!
 
And though I am of the OEM the first time around mentality...these look to be good candidates!

We shall see. They 'might' be viable options for some applications (low yearly mileage, little to no off-road).

BUT if they turn out to be a big turd of an idea....I promise I will come back here and report on it. Then everyone who already knew 'that thing just ain't gonna flush' can say so... and I will have learned my lesson. Hopefully that doesn't happen, but you never know.
 
Watch out for the heater Tees too when you raise the engine. I would disconnect some heater hoses if the Tees are not metal Tees.

Excellent advice. Took care of that a few years back when changing out my Starter. Just barely bumped one of them with the intake and it crumbled.

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Any reason for not getting CARDONE 665185HD from RockAuto? They have a better price there. 5% RockAuto promo code usually covers their shipping cost.

^^^^

Yes. The reason was...I didn't know about them. Appears to be the exact same CV....just 1/3 less the cost. :frown:

I do try to support our local businesses...but $40.00 less (per side) for the same product is a substantial savings.
 

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