GTurbo and blown head gasket! (1 Viewer)

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Jan 10, 2006
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www.ginglesinspections.com
I managed to blow a headgasket last week on my way home after a fun weekend of trails. I suspected I had a head gasket leak for the longest time (prior to the GTurbo install)-- I would be low on coolant every couple months and it wasn't leaking anywhere nor ending up in the oil.

I have a '92 HDJ81 with a GTurbo Bad Boy. I run the turbo at 28PSI and have upped the fueling, water to air intercooler and larger exhaust. Other than what's normally expected with a head gasket replacement such as clean surfaces, clean head bolt threads out of lower end, new head bolts, new gaskets, etc (and I'll be getting a valve job/head service completed too), is there anything else I should do to prevent this from happening again in the future?

From what I gather on here with running a GTurbo, I shouldn't have to upgrade to head studs, performance head gasket, etc.
Any help or insight is appreciated! I also emailed Graeme to see what he has to say but figured I'd ask for you all's experiences.

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I wouldn't see any need for head studs etc at 28 psi, just use a genuine head gasket and follow the FSM procedure.
 
So a little update, I emailed Gturbo back in February and got a prompt response just haven't posted it here -- Fortunately I have been busy with work during coronavirus. Here is the response I got from them,

"If you have a 1HD-T and running that boost level i would suggest running a Diesels Unlimited MLS head gasket and ARP Head Studs. They are $480AUD for the Gasket and $990 for the Head Studs.
You will not have any issues with the head after these modifications. "​

I'm hesitant spending that much money right now if the stock headgasket and new OEM bolts are sufficient.

Is there another MLS option out there that is less expensive? There is a gasket on Ebay but seems too cheap. Ebay MLS headgasket

Does anyone have experience with a similar set-up as mine? I would consider replacing everything OEM and lowering boost to 22psi or so. Thoughts?
 
You will be fine with an OEM head gasket and studs. Plenty of guys are running more boost than that on unopened motors.
I ran 26 psi on mine, unopened at 300,000 km. Did a number of 1000 km trips, some towing, most at a constant ~20 psi and only stopping for fuel. No more oil in the catch can than usual, no oil burnt etc etc
 
I would consider even new toyota head bolts. I swapped mine and the old were consistently stretched.
 
I would consider even new toyota head bolts. I swapped mine and the old were consistently stretched.
They're a torque to yield bolt so are single use in my book. They can be measured and reused if in spec, replaced if not. Personally, replace regardless, it's not worth the risk for a critical fastener.
 
They're a torque to yield bolt so are single use in my book. They can be measured and reused if in spec, replaced if not. Personally, replace regardless, it's not worth the risk for a critical fastener.
Absolutely!
 
I’m not sure they are torque to yield. But regardless would recommend replacement.
 
I’m not sure they are torque to yield. But regardless would recommend replacement.
From memory the torque procedure is 69 NM plus 90 plus 90 degrees. The plus *rotation* is typically a sign of a torque to yield bolt
 
From memory the torque procedure is 69 NM plus 90 plus 90 degrees. The plus *rotation* is typically a sign of a torque to yield bolt
agree, typically but maybe not in all cases. The Cap bolts on connecting rods are the same. And the manual wants you to check oil clearance with plastigauge while still doing the full torque procedure. Then we loosen and re assemble.. So if they are TTY we'd need 2 sets.
 
So any updates? I blew the head gasket in my 1HD-T running a GTurbo last summer. Had a shop do the head a and new gasket and bolts but had over pressurized coolant overflow after. It seems to have simmered down but I just bought the ARP head studs and am gonna install. Can I install the new studs without removing the head? Just swap them one by one and then torque?
 
28psi is too much more for stock head bolts.
You need to change it to ARP studs.
 

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