Builds GW Nugget's Family Haulin Lx450 build (1 Viewer)

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Maybe I can copy Broski... I've got the extended (I believe 2") rear bump stops that came with my Slinky kit in the rear. A 1" front bumpstop extension could be the ticket. I'd need to find aftermarket wheels with exactly the same as stock in 17" to pull that off, right? (feel free to tell me to not clutter up your build)
If you are writing about fitting 37s it is totally OK.
This thread is about the journey to 37s & beyond...

AS per Tools R Us fitting 37s is basically stock wheels with a .5" wheel spacer. So thats a 4" backspace 8" wheel.
With the 4runner, FJC wheels & 1" spacers they land right the the same as 4" BS 8" because they are 3.75" BS 7.5" wheel.
(4.5" BS 9")(4.25" BS 8.5")(4" BS 8")(3.75" BS 7.5") etc...
(I want to call them centered wheels, but I get technically corrected when I say that.)
@brosky rubbed because the tires were to close to the frame. He lowered his bumps 1" & 2" rear.
@baldilocks rubs outside fender because the tire is out 1" then broski.
I understand they put salt in the roads were you are you you need to keep it all sealed up.
Dont look at how or were my stuff is because I'm pushing this out to the edge to see how far & low I can go.
Mine is same as stock wheel with 1.5" wheel spacers.

All Tools did was snip the rear part of the flare. Most all Arizona guys do the FJC 4runer wheel 1" wheel spacers, 850J/863 & L shocks then bump down 2.5" & go wheelin....
I did it that way & it worked great till I wanted out of wheel spacers.


I agree I've been obsessed with suspension why to long.
 
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If you are writing about fitting 37s it is totaly OK.
This thead is about the jurney to 37s & beond...

AS per Tools R Us fitting 37s is basicaly stock wheels with a .5" wheel spacer. So thats a 4" backspace 8" wheel.
With the 4runner, FJC wheels & 1" spacers they land right the the same as 4' BS 8' because they are 3.75" BS 7.5" wheel.
(4.5" BS 9")(4" BS 8")(3.75" BS 7.5") etc...
(I want to call them centered wheels, but I get techinacally corrected when I say that.)
@brosky rubbed because the tires were to close to the frame.
@baldilocks rubs outsde fender because the tire is out 1" then brosky.
I understand they put salt in the roads were you are you you need to keep it all sealed up.
Dont look at how or were my stuff is beacuse I'm pushing this out to the edge to see how far & low I can go.
Mine is same as stock wheel with 1.5" wheel spacers.

All Tools did was snip the rear part of the flare. Most all Arizona guys do the FJC 4runer wheel 1" wheel spacers, 850J/863 & L shocks then bump down 2.5" & go wheelin....
I did it that way & it worked great till I wanted out of wheel spacers.
I agree I've been obsesd with suspension why to long.
My tires rub no where but they do come very close.
 
Did you just have to cut the front and back to flush? Or did you have to cut into the body to the point where you opened it up and weld a new patch panel on?
Lumpskie
Here's a rough sketch of the cut I made on the front fender. I under stand your concern with RUST I live at the beach anything lift out side unprotected rust immediately.
I just Woolwaxed my tow reg. It's only 2 years old ( 17k mi ) and the frame had surface rust everywhere.
And precisely why I wanted my fender cuts all welded up and sealed
332BF73C-513A-4E9A-A890-5B23602EEC8E.jpeg
 
So, I pancake all four tires into the wells (minor) when smashing hard in the dunes and have zero modifications to my bump stops.

I have 17x9, 4" backspace W/35" tires and a 24.5"ish hub to center average. What bump size is recommended to stay here front and back? 1.5"?

Also if I wanted to move to 37" keeping all above the same, what is the recommended bump increase? 2.5"?
 
So, I pancake all four tires into the wells (minor) when smashing hard in the dunes and have zero modifications to my bump stops.

I have 17x9, 4" backspace W/35" tires and a 24.5"ish hub to center average. What bump size is recommended to stay here front and back? 1.5"?

Also if I wanted to move to 37" keeping all above the same, what is the recommended bump increase? 2.5"?
When I went to a 37” inch tire I dropped my bump stops 2.5” front and I think the same rear but I used an aftermarket bump stop in the rear that collapses when mashed so my rear set up is not a good example. I also run tapered coils and longer shocks that drop out farther so I didn’t lose over all wheel travel but simply moved it down.

Jumping in the dunes and coming down hard with wheels straight ahead is what will require the greatest amount of bump stop drop because the tires come straight upward and could mash into the fender unlike when articulating one tire up and one down.

Also consider the tire contacting the front radius arms and the forward area of the inner fender during a hard turn.

I run stock wheels with a 1” spacer and a 37 that has a slightly narrower tread than most so my set up tucks up and in nicely when articulating. The best thing to do is to remove the coils and put the tires back on and use floor jacks to move the axles up, down and all around while turning the wheels to various angles so you know exactly what your situation calls for. It sounds like you have enough lift to do 37’s with out cutting if you had front arms that push the axle forward some and adjustable links at the rear. Well, you might have to trim a little bit from the lower few inches of the aft, rear fender lip. There is also a thing called Fender Rolling.
 
My tires rub no where but they do come very close.
They dont rub now but you did very minimal fender massage to get there. Its documented in your thread.
 
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So, I pancake all four tires into the wells (minor) when smashing hard in the dunes and have zero modifications to my bump stops.

I have 17x9, 4" backspace W/35" tires and a 24.5"ish hub to center average. What bump size is recommended to stay here front and back? 1.5"?

Also if I wanted to move to 37" keeping all above the same, what is the recommended bump increase? 2.5"?
1.5" with 35s
2.5" with 37s
Is where I recommend to start.
My wheels are 3.5" BS 9" wheel which is out .5" more the yours.
My rear bumps are lowered equivalent of 2.5".
I did hammered in the top inner fender & bent inward forward & aft sections.
20170810_082642-3.jpg

Stock is like this.
20170810_082642-1.jpg

I have not removed any metal from the rear fenders, but do have safe minimal rubbing. Ill grap a pic if i can find one.
Hah, got a vid.
 
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When I went to a 37” inch tire I dropped my bump stops 2.5” front and I think the same rear but I used an aftermarket bump stop in the rear that collapses when mashed so my rear set up is not a good example. I also run tapered coils and longer shocks that drop out farther so I didn’t lose over all wheel travel but simply moved it down.

Jumping in the dunes and coming down hard with wheels straight ahead is what will require the greatest amount of bump stop drop because the tires come straight upward and could mash into the fender unlike when articulating one tire up and one down.

Also consider the tire contacting the front radius arms and the forward area of the inner fender during a hard turn.

I run stock wheels with a 1” spacer and a 37 that has a slightly narrower tread than most so my set up tucks up and in nicely when articulating. The best thing to do is to remove the coils and put the tires back on and use floor jacks to move the axles up, down and all around while turning the wheels to various angles so you know exactly what your situation calls for. It sounds like you have enough lift to do 37’s with out cutting if you had front arms that push the axle forward some and adjustable links at the rear. Well, you might have to trim a little bit from the lower few inches of the aft, rear fender lip. There is also a thing called Fender Rolling.
1.5" with 35s
2.5" with 37s
Is where I recommend to start.
My wheels are 3.5" BS 9" wheel which is out .5" more the yours.
My rear bumps are lowered equivalent of 2.5".
I did hammered in the top inner fender & bent inward forward & aft sections.
View attachment 2190862
Stock is like this.
View attachment 2190865
I have not removed any metal from the rear fenders, but do have safe minimal rubbing. Ill grap a pic if i can find one.
Hah, got a vid.


Thanks guys!

I currently have longer LandTank rear/lower arms and adjustable panhards.
 
They dont rub now but you did very minimal fender massage to get there. Its documented in your thread.
Ok but that was with stock arms. Delta arms negate the need to trim.
 
Thanks guys!

I currently have longer LandTank rear/lower arms and adjustable panhards.
If you don’t move the front axle forward one way or another, you will need to trim the lower rear of the front fenders. @Box Rocket documented how he moved his front axle forward by welding plates onto the stock frame brackets and drilled new holes forward of the original holes. This method saves money over buying new arms but requires tools and certain know how.
 
I did cut out 2" from my front fenders to avoid moving axle forward & running stock length control arms.
 
If you don’t move the front axle forward one way or another, you will need to trim the lower rear of the front fenders. @Box Rocket documented how he moved his front axle forward by welding plates onto the stock frame brackets and drilled new holes forward of the original holes. This method saves money over buying new arms but requires tools and certain know how.

What was your solution?
 
I have been playing with the stock OEM rear cone bumps up front.
The idea is to soften the hard hit when the front end bottoms out.
I call them poor boy air bumps.
I have been running a 1" hockey puck with stock front bump stops.
The rear cone bumps sit 1" higher than the stock OEM fronts with vehicle wieght on them.
After a few field tests in the whoops my zip tie's on the shock shafts moved down approx .25" more.
So that is now .75" taller than stock.
Here is my findings:
Screenshot_20200128-124801.png

20200128_132451.png


 
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Its seems the size will cause heavy spring rub on articulation no? My stock ones rub as is. To point out I have caster plates though.
Good thoughts, the metal portion of my stock front bumps did slightly rub also even after removing the lip. See pic below.
Inside diameter of the coil, control arm length & caster angle do affect inside rubbing.
My stock front control arms are 2.5" lower at the frame from the MAF drop brackets.
I will defiantly keep you all posted on this.
One thing though is after removing the lip off the rear cone bumps, it will only be rubber rubing on the inside.
Screenshot_20200129-055600.png

In the video you can see the inside coil rub, but again it's rubber, not metal rubbing like the stock bumps do. See above pic.


After testing this 1" suspension lift, it only give approx 3" of up travel in the front.
I'm glad I did this, I learned a lot from it.
Next will be a 2" suspension lift, lower bumps .5" with an 1" body lift. Stay tuned for the findings..
 
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Does any of the information above have or give any value to the 80 series community or am I the only obsessed suspension freak on ih8mud trying to figure this all out on my own?
Or is this all old news & everyone has moved on because I've been stuck in the suspension phase of my build for the last 4 years.

I'm tired myself of being stuck here, but I want to know for sure, for sure, for sure that I have the best ride & handling 80 series I can have.
The thought of rather then a 3" or 4" suspension is a 2" suspension lift is closer to the stock geometry therefore better high speed maneuvering, turning while under hard braking & just a better more predictable feel on the road.

At this time I'm still holding onto the 1" body lift & a 2" suspension idea.
Currently waiting on a pair of 50mm front "RED" coils coming from AUS...
 
I'm just waiting until you find out the best option there is, then I plan to steal the idea (ditto on all the other builds on here). Kudos to the pioneers that put in the time and money figuring this stuff out. If it weren't for "freaks" like you, poor guys like me could never get close to figuring out the final product.
 

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