Anyone recognize this Blue 1971, and/or it's mods? (1 Viewer)

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Not a factory color, but I think you know that.
I had an FJ40 that looked very close to this, I’ll have to find a picture, it wasn’t as nice as this, but reminded me of it.
Here is a color chart for 1971. I would look In The glovebox or under a dash bezel or someplace like that to find the original color.

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Those front discs if nobody said it are probably stock just with the backing plate removed modification
I run 38’s on my widened stock steel wheels no rub. Lol I’ve run 33’’s 12.5 on 15 x7 wheels no rub or issues or spacers at all either nice truck go drive it looks good Chrome was a Toyota option back in the day also
 
I like the rig with the exception of the chrome. One thing I did notice that would concern me are these bolts. Not sure if the PO turned the heads down or what but there are no class markings so they could be Grade 2 hardware which is not something you would want to use to hold your tow hooks, bumper, etc... I would replace these with the proper strength fasteners (grade 8 or better).

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I like the rig with the exception of the chrome. One thing I did notice that would concern me are these bolts. Not sure if the PO turned the heads down or what but there are no class markings so they could be Grade 2 hardware which is not something you would want to use to hold your tow hooks, bumper, etc... I would replace these with the proper strength fasteners (grade 8 or better).

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Great find! Will do, as I shop Bolt Depot often, for my Pickup.
 
My widened Steelies are 15x7...I run 35x12.50s with no concern. I’d prefer an 8” wide wheel, but these are fine.

What isn’t fine are my cut rear fenders...

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That fit is a little scary, but I like it! Do you know if the backspace was altered when they were widened? Do you have any lift, and how much if so? Thanks
 
40 has a 2.5” suspension and 2” body lift
 
I love this. But the 60 crank nut is as Alf said, about 140.
That fit is a little scary, but I like it! Do you know if the backspace was altered when they were widened? Do you have any lift, and how much if so? Thanks

Backspacing has to be the same, ~3 1/2" or less to clear the calipers if you run a 15" rim. You can run more backspace with a larger rim
as the inside of the rim moves away from the caliper. The design of the rim also matters. What profile is rolled into the rim can affect
the fitment. I've had some 3 1/4 aftermarket brands fit where the next would contact the caliper. If you're not buying a factory rim
many times it's just a matter of trying a rim out for clearance. Wheel manufacturers will have a fitment guide but that doesn't mean they're right. No sense arguing with their rep. All they'll tell you is "The book says it fits"


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Yeah, cause I need my balls broke even more :bang:

The AMP PowerSteps are getting removed as well! That's gotta be proof that the PO was an older guy. I gotta unpimp this ride . . .
If power sliders are the only way to enjoy your Cruiser in the twilight of your life, then more power to you. You can't always find a
friend good enough to follow you around all day grabbing your ass and helping you up. Besides, if you're that old all your friends
are already in the same boat
 
So guys, is there any chance the PO used 1 1/2" wheel spacers just because he simply wanted the look of the tires sticking out past the fenders???

What I'm getting at is, could it possible for me to run the set up that came with it (33x12.5R15 on 15x8 wheels) - without spacers?

I'll have to strip it back down and check fitment/clearances, so I have to answer my own question. Of course, then I'll have to raise the damn header of my garage to get it in!

I really like the look of the stock Toyota wheels with the 33x10.5R15, but I have the same problem with the garage header.

Decisions . . .
 
So guys, is there any chance the PO used 1 1/2" wheel spacers just because he simply wanted the look of the tires sticking out past the fenders???

What I'm getting at is, could it possible for me to run the set up that came with it (33x12.5R15 on 15x8 wheels) - without spacers?

I'll have to strip it back down and check fitment/clearances, so I have to answer my own question. Of course, then I'll have to raise the damn header of my garage to get it in!

I really like the look of the stock Toyota wheels with the 33x10.5R15, but I have the same problem with the garage header.

Decisions . . .
Yes. Some like a wider track. Better on side hills, may even feel more stable in turns. Generally with a 15 x 8 rim the most you'll have to run is 1/4", assuming they purchased a 3 1/4 ~ 3 1/2 back space rim. The only time a 1 1/2" spacer is required for fitment is if the backspace was extreme like 4~ 4 1/2". The only reason I could see someone intentionally putting ill fitting wheels on a truck is because they were free. This truck doesn't look as if someone was cutting corners
 
Yes. Some like a wider track. Better on side hills, may even feel more stable in turns. Generally with a 15 x 8 rim the most you'll have to run is 1/4", assuming they purchased a 3 1/4 ~ 3 1/2 back space rim. The only time a 1 1/2" spacer is required for fitment is if the backspace was extreme like 4~ 4 1/2". The only reason I could see someone intentionally putting ill fitting wheels on a truck is because they were free. This truck doesn't look as if someone was cutting corners

Thanks for your continued input, I really appreciate it. Can you tell me what the standard offset for stock Toyota 15x5.5 wheels is?
 
offset is always the same no matter the rim width. The idea is to set the bolt face of the rim far enough in so that the rim
doesn't contact the calipers, rod ends or other brake parts. The standard LC offset for a 15" rim on a disc brake front end is 3 1/4~3 1/2
You can do less. As the offset gets smaller the wheel pushes farther from the brakes and tie rod. A larger diameter rim can get away with
more offset. If the rim is large enough the whole hub and brake assembly will pass easily through the center of the rim. I'm sure
if you ran 20's the front end components would look like toy car parts sitting inside a huge cavernous wheel
 
I’d pull a wheel and measure the offset and see if the spacer is required or not.

Could probably get a “close enough” measurement without even pulling a wheel....
 

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