My Desmog Thread (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

So I have to wonder if desmogging is illegal if the end result is better emissions. For instance if you go to a fuel injection system that vastly improves the em missions of your vehicle and you pass a smog test are you still in the wrong?
 
Gsw234 said:
Hey guys - question for you. I just finished my desmog with parts from JimC. All has gone fairly smoothly. I'm still awaiting a rebuilt carb and recurved dissy from him, but that may be month more. So in the meantime I'm doing what I can to get this running well.
Started up today, 5degrees F, and ran for about 10 minutes. It was a little rough. I've adjusted the timing. Then I noticed some loud muffler noises and looked down and saw the catalytic converter was red hot!
  1. What is causing the red hot cat? Just way too rich?
  2. Would it be beneficial to remove the cat? (Think I damaged it?)
  3. What is the ideal timing on a desmogged rig? 7 degrees?
  4. Why is it running so rich? Stock carb, with screw still capped from factory. (it was running rich before desmog, but I never noticed a red hot cat)
Thanks for all the help guys!!
Click to expand...
Maybe I just need to wait for @FJ40Jim to work his magic on my carb...
 
Gsw234 said:
I just finished my desmog with parts from JimC.
Started up today, 5degrees F, and ran for about 10 minutes. It was a little rough. I've adjusted the timing. Then I noticed some loud muffler noises and looked down and saw the catalytic converter was red hot!
  1. What is causing the red hot cat? Just way too rich?
  2. Would it be beneficial to remove the cat? (Think I damaged it?)
  3. What is the ideal timing on a desmogged rig? 7 degrees?
  4. Why is it running so rich? Stock carb, with screw still capped from factory.
Click to expand...
  1. Too much HC and too much O2. HC could be from running lean. O2 could be from AI or exh leak or lean.
  2. Possibly. A partially melted cat is restrictive and runs hot.
  3. Ideal timing yields highest torque at 2000rpm.
4.stock carb is jetted rich to ensure plenty of CO & HC to feed the fire in the cat. If the float level is up and/or air jets are restricted, it will be even more rich.
 
Seth S said:
So I have to wonder if desmogging is illegal if the end result is better emissions. For instance if you go to a fuel injection system that vastly improves the em missions of your vehicle and you pass a smog test are you still in the wrong?
Click to expand...
You are conflating legal & illegal with right & wrong.
It is illegal to modify emission control equipment.
 
FJ40Jim said:
You are conflating legal & illegal with right & wrong.
It is illegal to modify emission control equipment.
Click to expand...

I agree but I’m wondering if you can recertify with a new system and be legal again.
 
Gsw234 said:
  1. What is causing the red hot cat? Just way too rich?
  2. Would it be beneficial to remove the cat? (Think I damaged it?)
  3. What is the ideal timing on a desmogged rig? 7 degrees?
  4. Why is it running so rich? Stock carb, with screw still capped from factory. (it was running rich before desmog, but I never noticed a red hot cat)
Click to expand...
  1. Potentially unburned fuel, if it was running a little rough it could be a misfire.
  2. You probably didn't damage it, up to you if you want to remove, pending state emission laws and your personal feelings about it.
  3. I'll Defer to Jim but yes I believe 7* BTDC
  4. Has the carb ever been rebuilt?
 
Thanks for the ideas guys! This forum is great.

1 Was running a little rough...
2 Fortunately don't have to worry about emissions. Guess I could take it out and see if it makes any difference.
3 I'll go through the timing again
4. I rebuilt the carb. I'm not positive it's working exactly as it should though. I've got a spare that @FJ40Jim has. Just getting antsy to get it running right
 
Last edited:
FJ40Jim said:
You are conflating legal & illegal with right & wrong.
It is illegal to modify emission control equipment.
Click to expand...

"I am free, no matter what rules surround me. If I find them tolerable, I tolerate them; if I find them too obnoxious, I break them. I am free because I know that I alone am morally responsible for everything I do."
-Robert Heinlein
 
Any advice on breaking the EGR cooler bolts loose? I have purchased an extraction socket set, but still can't seem to get them to budge. I don't want to break off the bolt head.



1917904
 
Ah! Thank you Jim, I very much appreciate it sir! After looking at the diagram of the EGR cooler, that thought did cross my mind. It looked like the bolt was only threaded in the block, not the actual cooler, and that it may indeed slide off, if the bolt head broke. Seems like the only case where breaking the bolt head off may be advantageous.
 
Last edited:
FWIW, the hole in the block is not through into the crankcase, so if the bolt breaks off and can't be removed, it can just be trimmed off flush with the threaded boss. Nothing is gonna leak around the bolt.
 
Trying to desmog my 1985 FJ60. Both of my VCV valves are bad, as are every other VCV valve I can find on friend's parts rig, or in boxes of parts. So attempting to desmog without VCV valves since they are hard to find. Eventually maybe some electricly operated valves to serve the same function, but for now, EVAP system vented to atmosphere, Evap suction at carb base is plugged. Distributor ventilation hooked directly to air cleaner. Choke breaker hooked up as stock. Decel fuel cut switch is as stock.
Vacuum advance hooked to advancer port at carb base and to outer diaphragm on the distributor. PCV line TEE going to HIC is removed and PCV running to pipe on formerly EGR manifold port. HIC and HAI are not hooked to anything. All other carb ports are plugged. EGR, gone. AIR rail gone. Smog Pump replaced with idler pulley. Not exactly a Jim C approved installation but does anybody see any problems with this plan.
 
Last edited:
Thanks so much Jim- The other question I had on the above installation....im using one of your rebuilt carbs, but with a stock, not recurved distributor. Ive been going back and forth with running the advance line to the outside or the inside diaphram on the vacuum advance. Initially I had the advance set at 7 degrees, with vac line to the inner primary advance port. It ran better when I ran the advancer line to the outer port. I then tried to advance timing to about 11 degrees and use the outer advance port, which it runs really well with no pinging, but I do get some dieseling on shutdown. Im thinking since I havent had a recurve that the outer secondary port on the dizzy helps limit total advance, but where would initial advance be best set at? What total advance number is best for a desmog?
 
Has anyone here ever bypassed the air injection but keep the EGR intact? I'm currently in the process of replacing my smog pump with a used one purchased from another MUD member. A slightly leaking power steering pump is probably the culprit that destroyed the old air pump, and now I'm scared to put the used smog pump in and have it explode as well. My plan is to de vein the smog pump, install it, and cap off the air injection system until I can resolve the p/s pump leak but leave the rest of the emissions system intact. My rural county in CA, doesn't require yearly smog testing so there wont be any issue there but I don't want to scrap the whole system in case the rules change, plus the emissions system in my truck was functional up until the smog pump locked up.
 
@FJ40Jim. Message me pleaee. For some reason i.cant message you.

Re: carb cores OEM
 
retiredguest said:
Has anyone here ever bypassed the air injection but keep the EGR intact? I'm currently in the process of replacing my smog pump with a used one purchased from another MUD member. A slightly leaking power steering pump is probably the culprit that destroyed the old air pump, and now I'm scared to put the used smog pump in and have it explode as well. My plan is to de vein the smog pump, install it, and cap off the air injection system until I can resolve the p/s pump leak but leave the rest of the emissions system intact. My rural county in CA, doesn't require yearly smog testing so there wont be any issue there but I don't want to scrap the whole system in case the rules change, plus the emissions system in my truck was functional up until the smog pump locked up.
Click to expand...


Different vehicle but i've been running the 78 in my 2f like this for a while. When I bought it the smog pump didn't have a belt on it so just removed it. Left the air injection stuff until I could deal with it.
I believe it's fine as long as the check valve in your air injection manifold is working properly?

EGR is still all there
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

arklatex60
  • Question
Getting started on a desmog
Replies
17
Views
1K
NicksFJ40
NicksFJ40
FloTheFJ60
Desmog ? - workaround for no BVSV for evap system
Replies
0
Views
394
FloTheFJ60
FloTheFJ60
D
Novice FJ60 rebuild - it runs! need advice please on what hoses to put where to complete the desmog - read previous threads but can't understand terms
Replies
0
Views
441
Dave L
D
J
  • Poll
FJ60 Values W/ DeSmog vs W/O
Replies
5
Views
958
Miloslavich
Miloslavich

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 2 (members: 0, guests: 2)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom