rear lighting on FJ60 (1 Viewer)

[city cruiser]

The rear dome light and license plate lights do not work on my 1983 FJ60. It is original with no mods and no trailer hitch. Any ideas where to look? I noticed that the wiring harness between the tailgate and body was severed, so I reconnected them with a waterproof heat seal. that did not work. I never tested the wires for power, which I should have. All fuses are good and the front dome light works. I did replace the bilbs too. Also my rear defroster works... (a little) so I know its getting some power back there, as well, all of marker and indicator lights work great. Just the dome light and license place lights. BTW those bulbs a a bear to replace with big fingers! thanks for the assistance!

 

[Seth_O]

Does the dome light work when switched to "ON" vs "Door"? Or not at all? Have you put a multimeter on the bulb terminals to see if they're getting power?

My cargo dome works intermittently because the activating switch (in the hatch handle mechanism) works only intermittently, but all the rest of the equip works great. I would start at the furthest point of power for each (where the bulb installs) with a multimeter and work your way backwards.

 

[mattressking]

You start by taking the bulbs out and using a voltmeter to check to see if you are getting power to the terminals when the lights are supposed to be illuminated. If not, move backward through the harness to find where it breaks.

You said the harness was severed and you fixed with waterproof seal....what exactly happened and how exactly did you fix it?

The wiring is extremely simple in these trucks which makes resolving issues very convenient. Stupid question, but you replaced with known working bulbs to start, correct?

 

[mattressking]

Does the dome light work when switched to "ON" vs "Door"? Or not at all? Have you put a multimeter on the bulb terminals to see if they're getting power?

My cargo dome works intermittently because the activating switch (in the hatch handle mechanism) works only intermittently, but all the rest of the equip works great. I would start at the furthest point of power for each (where the bulb installs) with a multimeter and work your way backwards.

Speaking of hatch switch....Pop the lock out, blast it out with brake cleaner or similar, scrub and regrease....mine now works perfectly, no flickering.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

The rear driver's side quarter panel has wiring that can get corroded. It's very common on rusted trucks. It's also a common place where previous owners have hacked together towing harnesses.

 

[city cruiser]

Speaking of hatch switch....Pop the lock out, blast it out with brake cleaner or similar, scrub and regrease....mine now works perfectly, no flickering.

I'll try that! I was thinking the issues were connected, but might independent problems. Thank you

 

[city cruiser]

The rear driver's side quarter panel has wiring that can get corroded. It's very common on rusted trucks. It's also a common place where previous owners have hacked together towing harnesses.

Will take a look! thank you

 

[city cruiser]

You start by taking the bulbs out and using a voltmeter to check to see if you are getting power to the terminals when the lights are supposed to be illuminated. If not, move backward through the harness to find where it breaks.

You said the harness was severed and you fixed with waterproof seal....what exactly happened and how exactly did you fix it?

The wiring is extremely simple in these trucks which makes resolving issues very convenient. Stupid question, but you replaced with known working bulbs to start, correct?

Thank you for the thoughts. Time to dig in!