Possible Negative affects due to larger tires? (1 Viewer)

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So, you’re saying that if I had a more expensive tire, the screw that popped my tire wouldn’t have popped a KO2 or something more expensive?

Possibly. Most tires are load range E which Might have been tougher
 

I guess I should have said Load range C vs Load E. 6ply vs 10 ply....... 10ply would have stood a better chance.
Sorry your new tire got a screw in it....
 
I guess I should have said Load range C vs Load E. 6ply vs 10 ply....... 10ply would have stood a better chance.
Sorry your new tire got a screw in it....

He didn't say where the screw got in the tire. I've had tons of flats from screws and nails and not a single one was ever in the sidewall.
 
He didn't say where the screw got in the tire. I've had tons of flats from screws and nails and not a single one was ever in the sidewall.

Most sidewalls are 2-3 ply. C and E refer to the colored layers below.
1574105536139.png
 
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I ran over a screw on the road.

Yes, and just to compare apples to apples, if you compare your Falken WildPeak AT3W P275/65R18, 4 ply rated, @47.4lbs to a Falken WildPeak AT3W LT275/65R18, 10 ply rated, @60.2lbs, there's a 12.8lb difference. While that additional weight and stiffness does have some negatives on a mostly road driven DD, one positive of that thicker/tougher/heavier tire carcass is that it is generally more puncture resistant (in both the tread and sidewall areas).
 
Most sidewalls are 2-3 ply. C and E refer to the colored layers below.View attachment 2136389
the puncture was in the middle other tread. So instead of being rude and downgrading the tires I purchased maybe just say, “wow, that sucks”, or nothing at all. Regardless of tire, this would have happened to any tire.
 
the puncture was in the middle other tread. So instead of being rude and downgrading the tires I purchased maybe just say, “wow, that sucks”, or nothing at all. Regardless of tire, this would have happened to any tire.

I had thought that E load tires only had stronger sidewalls but his graphic, and jLB's commentary, the point is that the entire tire is stronger and could have prevented the puncture. Obviously that's not a sure thing, it would have just been more likely to survive. I agree that krice came off rude though haha
 
Any tire other than the OEM specified tire would impact your speedo. I would be WAY MORE concerned about wheel spaces and lifts as they alter the engineered geometries and increased cantilever and angles exponentially increase rate of wear of all components involved. Run the numbers and you will be sold on OEM. Take off your running boards, install some front mud flaps, get some OEM sized BF Goodrich A/T tires and call it a day.
 
You guys are brutal. @sum1, I'm sure Discount Tire already has you patched up and back on the road so enjoy those new tires.
 

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