Hi all, I am in Perth, Western Australia and have not attempted taking the PSP off my 1994 GXL 80 Series 1FZ-FE Non Turbo EFI petrol engine (Stock Standard) before now.
I have no prior Service History on this motor - picked it up 2 months ago at a bargain price of $2000, Road Registered - Very little Off Road use, Interior in excellent condition for its age.
It has a 'tinny' sounding knock at start up and not so loud at TEMP.
Rev the engine slowly and the knock quietens, is hardly audible till REVS come down to just under 1000 rpm.
Have done all the usual diagnostic checks and replace things like:
- Dropped the oil and engine flush
- Dropped No 2 sump Pan - it had about 1/2" of sludge in the bottom of pan.
- Pick up Screen Filter had Sludge caked on it with 2 x 1/2" clear screen for oil to be sucked up through.
- Degreased and thoroughly cleaned the Pan and Pick Up Screen with a toothbrush.
- Replaced No 2 Pan and fitted new RYCO Z9 Oil Filter and refilled with new 20W-50 oil.
- Oil Pressure was on the LOW side before, now running just under 3/4 mark at TEMP idle.
Knocking sound still there BUT NOT as loud as when first heard.
NOTE: I did screed through the old oil and sludge from the No 2 Pan with a old Microwave Magnetron Magnet (they are very powerful magnets) and NO Metal particles present in Oil or in No 2 Pan.
- Cut in half old Original Oil Filter and inspected the internal filter - NO Metal particles - Ferrous or Non- ferrous ) were seen or present in the old filter.
- Fitted a NEW Z9 Oil Filter , New Cheap Oil and ran an Engine Flush through the engine.
- Again dropped the oil and drained the system.
- Cut open the removed Z9 Oil Filter and again - NO metal particles seen or detected in that oil filter.
- Fitted a new Z9 Oil Filter and filled sump with new 20W-50 Oil.
- Engine Knock not so loud as it was but is still there oil gauge shows just below 3/4 mark at Engine TEMP and idle.
- Dropped the original Coolant and did a Cooling System Flush and refilled with new RED Coolant.
NOTE: No Oil in the Cooling System and No Coolant in the Oil Pan before doing the 2 Flush out regimes.
I have done all the usual elimination checks and replaced things like:
- Dropped the Coolant, ran a Heavy Duty Cooling System Flush and re filled with RED coolant;
- New Drive belts
- Water Pump;
- New Thermostat;
- Idler Bearing;
- A/C Adjuster Pulley;
- TC Chain Tensioner;
- Replaced the Oil Pump Relief Valve, Spring and Washer after cleaning out the Relief Vale housing.
- Cleaned Oil Cooler Relief Valve, Spring, and housing and checked it operated freely - ( was not able to buy a new Oil Cooler Relief valve and spring from Toyota- New one EX- Japan 6 weeks to arrive here in Perth)
- Removed the top bolt above the OIL Cooler Relief Valve and checked that this Relief Valve was not sludged up and had free movement.
- I put a small amount of ATF into the Oil Cooler Relief Valve housing before I did the engine oil flush - Oil Cooler Relief valve operates smoothly.
NOTE: I could not obtain a new OEM Oil Cooler Relief Valve, Spring and Washer from Toyota (none in stock in Oz) - 6 weeks before they would have one to me ex Japan.
Vehicle drives and accelerates good through all the gears.
No rough idling.
No Misfiring.
No ECU Error Codes detected.
Removed the exhaust manifold heat shields as there were a few cracks in the shields.
NO visible signs of exhaust manifold leaks at all.
But the 'tinny' knocking sound is still audible BUT as said it is not as bad as when I first heard the engine running when I bought it.
There is absolutely NO Thumping Knocking sound that I have heard a Rod or Main Bearing makes and as mentioned it quietens when at TEMP and when increasing the REVS.
When I put a Stethoscope Probe on the engine, I hear a very loud knocking when held against the Powers Steering Pump casing.
When Held on the Valve Cover - it sounds like a locomotive.
To my 'Untrained Ear' - Not being a mechanic, it sounds to me like Valve Shims maybe way out of specs?
If I hold it against the engine block at each Cylinder I hear more like a ticking sound but NO KNOCKING sound as described above.
- Have removed all the belts and the tin knocking sound is still heard.
- I have removed each spark lead (in turn) and NO difference in the sound of the knock on each cylinder.
I have a new PSP 'O' Ring and was going to tackle disconnecting the PSP to see if the knock disappears with it just unbolted.
This brings me to my question:
If I unbolt the PSP and start the engine, will the Oil Pump Driven Gears spurt Oil out of the opening where the PSP bolts into?
I don't have a garage or shed to work in, on this vehicle - just on brick paving and under a Carport - NOT wanting engine oil spewed out onto the Brick Paving if I start the engine without the PSP connected.
Better to know now before I do this than have a Major HAZ MAT clean up or have to replace Brick Paving afterwards. :-(
Much a appreciate your more learned experience and advise, in advance.
Cheers
Phil
I have no prior Service History on this motor - picked it up 2 months ago at a bargain price of $2000, Road Registered - Very little Off Road use, Interior in excellent condition for its age.
It has a 'tinny' sounding knock at start up and not so loud at TEMP.
Rev the engine slowly and the knock quietens, is hardly audible till REVS come down to just under 1000 rpm.
Have done all the usual diagnostic checks and replace things like:
- Dropped the oil and engine flush
- Dropped No 2 sump Pan - it had about 1/2" of sludge in the bottom of pan.
- Pick up Screen Filter had Sludge caked on it with 2 x 1/2" clear screen for oil to be sucked up through.
- Degreased and thoroughly cleaned the Pan and Pick Up Screen with a toothbrush.
- Replaced No 2 Pan and fitted new RYCO Z9 Oil Filter and refilled with new 20W-50 oil.
- Oil Pressure was on the LOW side before, now running just under 3/4 mark at TEMP idle.
Knocking sound still there BUT NOT as loud as when first heard.
NOTE: I did screed through the old oil and sludge from the No 2 Pan with a old Microwave Magnetron Magnet (they are very powerful magnets) and NO Metal particles present in Oil or in No 2 Pan.
- Cut in half old Original Oil Filter and inspected the internal filter - NO Metal particles - Ferrous or Non- ferrous ) were seen or present in the old filter.
- Fitted a NEW Z9 Oil Filter , New Cheap Oil and ran an Engine Flush through the engine.
- Again dropped the oil and drained the system.
- Cut open the removed Z9 Oil Filter and again - NO metal particles seen or detected in that oil filter.
- Fitted a new Z9 Oil Filter and filled sump with new 20W-50 Oil.
- Engine Knock not so loud as it was but is still there oil gauge shows just below 3/4 mark at Engine TEMP and idle.
- Dropped the original Coolant and did a Cooling System Flush and refilled with new RED Coolant.
NOTE: No Oil in the Cooling System and No Coolant in the Oil Pan before doing the 2 Flush out regimes.
I have done all the usual elimination checks and replaced things like:
- Dropped the Coolant, ran a Heavy Duty Cooling System Flush and re filled with RED coolant;
- New Drive belts
- Water Pump;
- New Thermostat;
- Idler Bearing;
- A/C Adjuster Pulley;
- TC Chain Tensioner;
- Replaced the Oil Pump Relief Valve, Spring and Washer after cleaning out the Relief Vale housing.
- Cleaned Oil Cooler Relief Valve, Spring, and housing and checked it operated freely - ( was not able to buy a new Oil Cooler Relief valve and spring from Toyota- New one EX- Japan 6 weeks to arrive here in Perth)
- Removed the top bolt above the OIL Cooler Relief Valve and checked that this Relief Valve was not sludged up and had free movement.
- I put a small amount of ATF into the Oil Cooler Relief Valve housing before I did the engine oil flush - Oil Cooler Relief valve operates smoothly.
NOTE: I could not obtain a new OEM Oil Cooler Relief Valve, Spring and Washer from Toyota (none in stock in Oz) - 6 weeks before they would have one to me ex Japan.
Vehicle drives and accelerates good through all the gears.
No rough idling.
No Misfiring.
No ECU Error Codes detected.
Removed the exhaust manifold heat shields as there were a few cracks in the shields.
NO visible signs of exhaust manifold leaks at all.
But the 'tinny' knocking sound is still audible BUT as said it is not as bad as when I first heard the engine running when I bought it.
There is absolutely NO Thumping Knocking sound that I have heard a Rod or Main Bearing makes and as mentioned it quietens when at TEMP and when increasing the REVS.
When I put a Stethoscope Probe on the engine, I hear a very loud knocking when held against the Powers Steering Pump casing.
When Held on the Valve Cover - it sounds like a locomotive.
To my 'Untrained Ear' - Not being a mechanic, it sounds to me like Valve Shims maybe way out of specs?
If I hold it against the engine block at each Cylinder I hear more like a ticking sound but NO KNOCKING sound as described above.
- Have removed all the belts and the tin knocking sound is still heard.
- I have removed each spark lead (in turn) and NO difference in the sound of the knock on each cylinder.
I have a new PSP 'O' Ring and was going to tackle disconnecting the PSP to see if the knock disappears with it just unbolted.
This brings me to my question:
If I unbolt the PSP and start the engine, will the Oil Pump Driven Gears spurt Oil out of the opening where the PSP bolts into?
I don't have a garage or shed to work in, on this vehicle - just on brick paving and under a Carport - NOT wanting engine oil spewed out onto the Brick Paving if I start the engine without the PSP connected.
Better to know now before I do this than have a Major HAZ MAT clean up or have to replace Brick Paving afterwards. :-(
Much a appreciate your more learned experience and advise, in advance.
Cheers
Phil
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