06/07 Air Induction Pump Failure & Bypass (2 Viewers)

[jerryb]

if you can hear the fan it's on it's way out. If it fails with certain codes the bypass won't solve the cel. For most, it solves it.
When you read playing fire that's what they mean. It will fail. If you always replace with factory toyota parts back up too original state that wouldn't matter to you.
If you're into saving money or whatever or don't care about the SAI then you want the bypass before a one of those codes happen that the bypass won't fix.

 

[hewitttech]

@hewitttech I incorrectly wrote a DTC of P2445 I've corrected that to a P1445 above.
Why is the P1445 coming up in a 2UZ VVT?
Is this for one of the two switches on the back of engine connected to the water bypass joint rear on BK1 (LH side) (other on RH side BK 2). Which has the tube running from it into the exhaust manifold were the block off plate goes?
I can hear the AI system shut down with a loud sound. Hard to hear otherwise.

Yes the P1445 is Air Switching Valve No. 2 Stuck Closed Bank 2, the passenger side vacuum actuated air switching valve at the back of then engine. Usually on the 4.7L with this setup the valve is physically stuck closed because of corrosion and carbon buildup in the valve. It could also be a leak in the vacuum line that controls it or a bad VSV.

 

[2001LC]

Yes the P1445 is Air Switching Valve No. 2 Stuck Closed Bank 2, the passenger side vacuum actuated air switching valve at the back of then engine. Usually on the 4.7L with this setup the valve is physically stuck closed because of corrosion and carbon buildup in the valve. It could also be a leak in the vacuum line that controls it or a bad VSV.

Thanks for the reply.

I'll add; if this only happens when OAT below freezing it may be moisture in the secondary switch, vac line or VSV.

 

[hewitttech]

if you can hear the fan it's on it's way out. If it fails with certain codes the bypass won't solve the cel. For most, it solves it.
When you read playing fire that's what they mean. It will fail. If you always replace with factory toyota parts back up too original state that wouldn't matter to you. If you're into saving money or whatever or don't care about the SAI then you want the bypass before a one of those codes happen that the bypass won't fix.

Yes, typically on the 4.7L vehicles if you can hear the air pump running it is on it's way out and there is no way of knowing how long it will take before ultimately damaging the pump motor and causing a P0418 and or P0419 on vehicles with two pumps.
Now comments like this are were a lot of the confusion and misinformation come from. Just because you get a code like a
P0418, P0419, P0412, P0415, P2431-P2438 doesn't mean we can't take care of the problem with a kit, it just means that you may need extra kit addons to go with it for those specific codes.
The whole point of our bypass kits are so you don't have to pay $2500-$3500 to the dealer to replace all the parts just to end up back in the same place 6 months to a year later when it fails again. You do not have to install one of our bypass kits before it fails. However, getting the bypass kit installed before having a failure that causes an electrical fault code like those mentioned above will save you money because the bypass kit by itself would be all you need. We have kit addons for all of the codes mentioned above. For more information about what the kit can and can't do by itself and what kit addons we have for certain codes please check our our codes page here: Hewitt Tech Codes Page - Kit Addons Explained

 

[Balto1223]

What's the word on the full delete kit? Surely it's getting to the end of beta stage, right?

This past winter, and the winter before, I recall hearing this "shop vac" like sound. It doesn't sound strained or abnormal, but it does have me a little worried.

Also, what would be the estimated price of the full delete kit? If it's much more, I can't see how it'd be worth it. The other kits basically tell the computer that the pump is running as it should, correct? What more does the full delete kit do?

Don't take my questions wrong here, just doing some research before committing. I'm extremely happy there are options other than the costs at the stealership.

Thanks

 

[WestTX28]

I replaced the timing belt & wp on my '05 4.7 Tundra last weekend. Truck is rarely used and only has 84K miles. When I got it all back together I noticed the air pump was a little loud. I put a Hewitt-Tech PnP bypass on my '06 Land Cruiser almost 4 years ago after AIP failure. So I'm 0 for 2 on the 2UZ-FE Secondary Air Injection System. Definitely a weak point on an otherwise fantastically robust engine. I went ahead and ordered another bypass module to eliminate and be done with it. Just glad there is a solution.

 

[Wesley Crusher]

Just experienced this issue on my 07 LX with 132k miles. My shop quoted me @ $2500 for parts and labor. Thank god for this thread. I just saved myself a small fortune.

Hoping to receive the kit and install it this week.

 

[94SRUNNER]

Just experienced this issue on my 07 LX with 132k miles. My shop quoted me @ $2500 for parts and labor. Thank god for this thread. I just saved myself a small fortune.

Hoping to receive the kit and install it this week.

Did you have an CEL or did you hear the noises?

 

[Wesley Crusher]

Did you have an CEL or did you hear the noises?

Yup, CEL, VSC Trac and VSC Off lights have been on since Wed afternoon. A day or two prior is when I started to hear the shop vac sound upon cold start and yesterday evening as I was driving (to the shop, actually), my LX went into limp mode and couldn’t accelerate past 20mph or so.

 

[hewitttech]

What's the word on the full delete kit? Surely it's getting to the end of beta stage, right?
This past winter, and the winter before, I recall hearing this "shop vac" like sound. It doesn't sound strained or abnormal, but it does have me a little worried.
Also, what would be the estimated price of the full delete kit? If it's much more, I can't see how it'd be worth it. The other kits basically tell the computer that the pump is running as it should, correct? What more does the full delete kit do?
Don't take my questions wrong here, just doing some research before committing. I'm extremely happy there are options other than the costs at the stealership.
Thanks

Normally if you are hearing the pump on a 4.7L engine the air pump is on the way out and just a matter of time.
We ran into a very late beta issue (last week starting production) with a test vehicle at high altitude and had to make some tweaks but has not been tested at high altitude again.
We are however going ahead with an initial production run of 50-100 units starting this week. They will remain as coming soon but will be contacting people on our contact list first. We will not make them available on our website until I have at least finished instructions but they will be available to order by phone and we can ship without instructions and walk you through installation.

The pricing for the Next Gen units will likely be set at $450. It might seem like more but if you consider the current bypass kits can only prevent the system from running and often requires at least 1 extra kit addon for a complete solution(pump packs, pressure sensor replacements etc..) to take care of all your codes it isn't considering what it does. The Next Gen units are still only sold for off-road use or excempt use but it Will let the computer and emissions monitors think that the system ran like it was supposed to. The current bypass kits cannot do this which is why a new solution was needed for the 12' and newer systems (all 15' and newer) that run the secondary air system at shutdown. For now the Next Gen units will let you remove EVERYTHING if you add the pressure sensor option to them. Otherwise you need to retain just the factory air switching valves to use the pressure sensors in them. Other than that you can toss your air pumps and all the other pieces if you wanted without needing any extra kit addons like our pump pack, valve packs etc.
The Next Gen unit replaces one or both of your air injection control drivers you don't have to replace them when the system craps out and takes it with them. With the current bypass kit the air injection control driver still has to be looking at the pump and talking to the ECM. This is where the magic happens.

If you want to order one please give us a call so we can discuss your options further and find the right solution. We will take preorders now that we are starting production and will ship them when ready with or without instructions if you like.

 

[Wesley Crusher]

Once the bypass unit is installed, are we able to drive for a short distance (<100 miles) without the block off plates? I’m planning to drop off my rig on Monday at the shop for some work and if they can install the plates for me, that would be great. The bypass unit seems simple enough that I could do myself.

 

[hewitttech]

Once the bypass unit is installed, are we able to drive for a short distance (<100 miles) without the block off plates? I’m planning to drop off my rig on Monday at the shop for some work and if they can install the plates for me, that would be great. The bypass unit seems simple enough that I could do myself.

The only concern with driving without the block off plates is if your air switching valves are physically stuck open or leaking. If they were you would probably go back into limp mode for the valve stuck open codes. Driving the vehicle with physically stuck open or leaking air switching valves can let enough exhaust flow to damage the pressure sensors that are built into the air switching valves. Most of the time the damage occurs when someone has been driving it that way for quite a while though and a day or two typically isn't going to hurt it. Again this is only if they are physically leaking or stuck open. If you can clear your codes and drive normal with just the bypass module installed you don't have to worry about this and can get the plates in when convenient. A lot of the times this is because the valve stuck open codes are caused by a failing air pump and the air switching valves themselves are OK and not actually stuck open or leaking. You will still always want to get the plates installed because they are the only thing that ensures that the valves will not leak and cause problems later down the road. Even though the bypass module prevents the system from running those valves can still leak and if they do you would have to get the plates installed and clear the codes again. It is always best to install it all at once if you can so you don't have to worry about it or need the plates later on and can't find them.

 

[jefftb]

Semi-thread revive...


Guys I feel like an idiot but can someone take a pic of where each of these plates are to be installed. Just received the Hewitt kit and the installation instructions for the plates does not look at all like our 2006 100 Series.

FWIW....ours went out at 227,000

 

[NoTempoLimit]

@TexasCrane Great thread but the link to the product on tundrasolutions.com is not working. Any other way to link to that product?

 

[jerryb]

Two pipes on either side of highlighted valves, that's a r runner I think. Same place for LC Lx

 

[JunctiJuvant]

First off, I created an account just to come post on this issue (long time lurker). This forum has been a god-send on multiple * occasions.

I finally installed a Ru-Tech Solutions bypass kit. Not sure difference between theirs and Hewitts’ above, but it seems to have worked. I have an 07 100 LC, 166k miles. Issues began this Winter. The Bypass plates are a PAIN IN THE ASS - best to come in from underneath using a small 10 mm wrench. Also hit the bolts with some KROIL first and let sit. Took me about 2 hrs but after I reset my computer (unplugged battery), all the CEL and VSC lights are off

 

[hewitttech]

@TexasCrane Great thread but the link to the product on tundrasolutions.com is not working. Any other way to link to that product?

Gen-1 kits:
Our V36H kits for the 2005-2007 vehicles: V36H Bypass Kits 2005-2007
Our V54H kits for the 2008-newer vehicles: V54H Bypass Kits 2008-newer

Gen-II kit:
Here is a link to the Gen-II kits: Gen-II Bypass Kits 2005-2020!

Right now, unfortunately, the only 4.7L we cover are still just the 07-09 Tundra and 08-09 Seq. We did receive the connectors we were waiting for but our manufacturer produced the wrong keying and we are waiting on a new lead time for them to correct their error. Once we have those It should not take long to make them available for all the other 4.7L vehicles.

 

[nothappening]

Gen-1 kits:
Our V36H kits for the 2005-2007 vehicles: V36H Bypass Kits 2005-2007
Our V54H kits for the 2008-newer vehicles: V54H Bypass Kits 2008-newer

Gen-II kit:
Here is a link to the Gen-II kits: Gen-II Bypass Kits 2005-2020!

Right now, unfortunately, the only 4.7L we cover are still just the 07-09 Tundra and 08-09 Seq. We did receive the connectors we were waiting for but our manufacturer produced the wrong keying and we are waiting on a new lead time for them to correct their error. Once we have those It should not take long to make them available for all the other 4.7L vehicles.

At one time I think I heard you all were working on a solution for broken studs. Has any progress been made? Or did I just imagine that?

 

[hewitttech]

Still rolling that one around in my head just a matter of finding time to get to it. It's probably time to hire a third engineer.

 

[niche]

Re-starting this thread for 2020! Got cel lights and codes this past this week 190k miles
Looking to get Hewitt kit. What is the correct one for 2006 lx470?