Builds His and Her GX 460 Builds (3 Viewers)

[r2m]

Don't need lower control arms unless you're going with long travel axles.
The only thing you may need if you go more than 3 inches would be a diff drop kit.

 

[BMRisko]

Do you have any pics of the Kaymar at a distance? I'm this * * close to calling Ward at LRA to get an order on the books. The 460 has been on the market for 10 years now and still no really good domestically made rear bumper options as far as I'm concerned, which is very disappointing.

 

[TX GX460]

@BMRisko, see below. If you are looking for any specific angles or greater distances let me know and I will try to get some taken.

 

[BMRisko]

Thanks! Really like how low profile it is while somewhat maintaining an OEM look. Are there any issues that have crept up since installing or are you still happy with everything?

 

[TX GX460]

Thanks! Really like how low profile it is while somewhat maintaining an OEM look. Are there any issues that have crept up since installing or are you still happy with everything?

Smooth sailing so far. Two swing arms are a little less convenient than one, but I like how they don't swing out as far as the single arm. I am still very impressed with the design and build quality. Very smooth operation and just solid. I am happy I made the switch.

 

[TX GX460]

I'm behind getting my 200 series build thread started, so I figured I would post some of the design details for the drawers here. Several of the ideas can be used in any box.

The first concept is how to place the drawer fridge in a moveable drawer. The fridge doesn't pull much power, but I still wanted to use 12 AWG wire for safety and efficiency. This is too thick and inflexible to bend over itself above the drawer slides, so I need another solution. I purchased a 3x12 gauge coiled power cord from Walmart (cheaper for the same product than Amazon). I cut off the ends and secured it to the box frame in the back, and extended it through a hole in the rear of the drawer, where I trimmed and secured the other end.

You will probably notice the wire along the top of the cord. I needed the drawer to open and close with ease, but the cooked power cord does not spring back very quickly and also tends to sag. So I purchased a Key-Bak retractable key chain holder from Amazon. It uses a Kevkar cord and has enough spring tension to hold up the power cord and keep it linear during extension and retraction. I connected it to the power cord with zip ties.

Just in case it still hangs up, I put a small hinged access just large enough to reach through above the power cord where the drawer meets the frame in back. If the power cord ever gets stuck between the drawer and frame, I can reach in an fix it quickly. The photo below is with the drawer completely closed. I will try to get one with it open as well to show the power cord.

 

[TX GX460]

I used two wires from the power cord for the fridge. The third one I used for the drawer lights (sharing ground with the fridge).

I wanted automatic lights that turned on when the drawers were opened. I ended up using the following magnetic switches and lights: Magnetic Switch Amazon product ASIN B0009SUF08Xprite Led Rock Light for Bed... Amazon product ASIN B017XFF9IM
One box of lights worked to handle both drawers. They are two strings of 4 light pods each.

Because power was already extended to the left drawer for the fridge, I just had to extend power in- line to the switch placed between the drawer and frame, and from there to the lights. They fit nicely in the space for the slides. Below are some photos of the installation. Note that the power lead to the lights is "NC", or normally closed.

Looking at the switch on the side of the drawer with the drawer open:

I used black wire for ground, white for power to fridge, and green to power lights:

 

[TX GX460]

For the right drawer I had to run power to the lights that allowed extension of the drawers. The wires for the lights were plenty long for this. I ran the ground and power wires through the box above the slides and placed the magnetic switch just on the other side. I cut the positive wire and connected it to the switch, again using the NC terminal. I left the ground wire intact.

I then ran the wire a little more than halfway up the side of the drawer, where I secured it before running back to the rear again through an access hole.

I did this to reduce the amount of wire travel. In this configuration, the loose/moveable portion of the wire in the slide channel is only half the length of the drawer.

I ran the lights under the carpet for the main drawers, which I think gave them a clean look.

 

[TX GX460]

I decided not to put visible locks on these drawers. Anything of real value is not going to be stored there. So I used locking drawer slides instead and flush-mounted them so the latching mechanisms were just behind the drawer fronts. On the left side, the latch sits behind a flap of carpet. That way, if you pull on the drawer fridge handle, only the fridge opens unless you know to look for the latch. On the right side, I covered the latch with carpet so it doesn't stand out but it is still visible.

And below is another photo of the forward section after it was finished. I am using my Raingler net from the GX to divide the dog area. I am either going to modify this or order a new one to better fit our space and meet our needs. I like that Raingler now has a velcro-closing center panel option in these nets to allow dogs through but still seal the area. I may go that route, but will likely need them to raise the opening location to fit my higher drawers.

 

[TX GX460]

And while we are a little off topic, below are pics of my wife's 200 series with her new BudBuilt sliders, coated in Cedar Purple powder coat from Prismatic Coatings, and her plasti-dipped engine cover.

I had some texture issues on the rattle can plasti dip, but given the location I didn't see the need to spend a lot of extra time trying to fix it.

 

[r2m]

I'm behind getting my 200 series build thread started, so I figured I would post some of the design details for the drawers here. Several of the ideas can be used in any box.

The first concept is how to place the drawer fridge in a moveable drawer. The fridge doesn't pull much power, but I still wanted to use 12 AWG wire for safety and efficiency. This is too thick and inflexible to bend over itself above the drawer slides, so I need another solution. I purchased a 3x12 gauge coiled power cord from Walmart (cheaper for the same product than Amazon). I cut off the ends and secured it to the box frame in the back, and extended it through a hole in the rear of the drawer, where I trimmed and secured the other end.
View attachment 2035345
View attachment 2035346

You will probably notice the wire along the top of the cord. I needed the drawer to open and close with ease, but the cooked power cord does not spring back very quickly and also tends to sag. So I purchased a Key-Bak retractable key chain holder from Amazon. It uses a Kevkar cord and has enough spring tension to hold up the power cord and keep it linear during extension and retraction. I connected it to the power cord with zip ties.
View attachment 2035348

Just in case it still hangs up, I put a small hinged access just large enough to reach through above the power cord where the drawer meets the frame in back. If the power cord ever gets stuck between the drawer and frame, I can reach in an fix it quickly. The photo below is with the drawer completely closed. I will try to get one with it open as well to show the power cord.
View attachment 2035364

Clever idea using a cable for your coiled power cord!

 

[Torn]

Any idea if the ARB Summit bar will fit on the 2010-2013 gx460? Everyone points to the older deluxe bar, but since we have to custom cut anyway...

 

[TX GX460]

Any idea if the ARB Summit bar will fit on the 2010-2013 gx460? Everyone points to the older deluxe bar, but since we have to custom cut anyway...

It would mount to the truck just fine. The reason people point to the Deluxe is because the Summit bar was released for the redesigned Prado 150 in 2014, and the bumper cutting templates are for the post-facelift model. That's not relevant to the GX, since the templates are worthless. But sometimes the design change includes some geometry changes to the ARB sheetmetal to better compliment the vehicle design. It's hard to tell without having them side-by-side to measure and compare. I am going through the same issue with the LC 200, because I like the 2016+ Summit bar design better than the Deluxe and am trying to figure out whether it will fit. In the case of the 200 ARB bars, it is clear the geometries have changed so the decision to try is made more difficult.

The main question is where trimming would have to be. I don't think that the geometry of the Prado 150 Deluxe and Summit bars are all that different, but take a look for yourself at the photos below for some general comparisons. The ARB summit bumper sits up surprisingly high on the truck, very close to the bottoms of the 2014+ headlights. You will want to compare the geometries of the two GX 460 designs and the two ARB designs to make sure the headlights will clear the bumper, especially the bulbous HID section towards the outside of the lights. Also remember that there are mounting clips below the lights that need to be taken into account. As seen below, there is more clearance in that area, but you will want to do some measurements to be sure. Mule Expedition Outfitters was able to make it work fine with the deluxe bar on the white GX below, so if the geometries for the Summit bar didn't change (something I can't guarantee, although I personally don't see anything that sticks out as significantly different), it should work. Unfortunately if you are the first to do it, you never know for sure until you try.

Good luck! If you go that route make sure to post pics of the process and results here!

 

[BMRisko]

I may have overlooked it, but what antenna mount are you running on the hood? Appears to be lower profile than some of the ones I've seen. I have a Comet w/ 3 plane adjustability (I can't stand antennas that aren't perfectly straight), but it is a pretty chunky mount.

Nevermind...see it is on the bullbar. I could have sworn in some older pics it was up near the windshield. Must be my eyes deceiving me!

 

[TX GX460]

I may have overlooked it, but what antenna mount are you running on the hood? Appears to be lower profile than some of the ones I've seen. I have a Comet w/ 3 plane adjustability (I can't stand antennas that aren't perfectly straight), but it is a pretty chunky mount.

Nevermind...see it is on the bullbar. I could have sworn in some older pics it was up near the windshield. Must be my eyes deceiving me!

Your eyes aren't deceiving you. Very early on I ran a mount on my hood near the windshield, but once I added the ARB bumper I permanently ran the wire to the bumper antenna mount location. The hood mount was a cheap Amazon brand ("Aweek"). It was only adjustable in two rotational planes. It served its purpose but I much prefer the hard mount on the bumper.

 

[Torn]

Good luck! If you go that route make sure to post pics of the process and results here!

I am almost definately going this route. I really like the quality and strength of the ARB bumpers. Based on all the images it seems like fitment shouldn't be an issue. I do have a camera in the front and radar cruise so things to worry about. I wonder if that camera relocation kit will work. May need to get a replacement grill to fix the left over hole.

The kaymar rear is also very high on my list. Haven't found a better alternative yet. I do wish it had the single swing of the metaltech though.

 

[r2m]

Just a quick question: do the ARB bumpers come with holes for the parking sensors? I don't think I can see any in the above photos.
If you don't have Parking Assist, then never mind.

 

[Torn]

Just a quick question: do the ARB bumpers come with holes for the parking sensors? I don't think I can see any in the above photos.
If you don't have Parking Assist, then never mind.

Yes if you get the correct part number.

 

[r2m]

My MetalTech came with holes, but did not have the notch to orient the sensor in the proper rotation. I've been told that the newer ones now have that notch, but if you're interested, definitely ask if they corrected that.
Just a note about the MetalTech bumpers, Just came back this last weekend from a 3,800 mile road trip with my wife through the south west, and love the bumpers along with the rest of how I have my rig set up. I was hoping all my research paid off when I built her and it did! We had an awesome time in a comfortable and perfect running vehicle!!

 

[TX GX460]

I personally believe the ARB bumper is the best designed and manufactured front bumper available. It appears more solid than the Ironman or similar offerings. Yes if you get the Deluxe or Summit you can get parking sensors, and with the Summit you can also get headlight washer openings. My front and rear bumpers both came with parking sensor openings pre-cut. I have a discussion and photos early in this thread on how to install the sensors in the ARB front bumper.

@Torn, I think you are right that the Summit will work; I just can't guarantee it. I see no reason why the camera relocation kit won't work. If it doesn't come with a separate camera you can always buy an inexpensive one and just leave the original in place but unplugged. You might want to do it just for a different field of view. I personally don't like how the front camera lens is set up myself and would prefer a narrower field of view with improved distance perception and less distortion.

As to the rear bumper, I actually like the dual swing-out better from a space perspective. I no longer extend out halfway into the driving lane in a parking lot every time I open the rear door. If you don't want Jerry can holders, you can order the Kaymar with just a single side tire carrier arm and leave the second spindle covered. That gives you the ease of a single swingarm with the functionality of a tire carrier. And it would save you some money too. You would need to custom relocate the license plate, but that shouldn't be a big hassle. Kaymar also has the option to run two tire carriers if you feel the need to do so.