Builds Project Patina-November 1968 FJ-40 (1 Viewer)

[cheeese]

Nolen, I just made it thru all 69 pages of this thread- what a transformation paid for with busted knuckles, a few choice words, and a hell of a community. Beautiful work. Of course now I’m going to look for a derelict 40…

 

[wngrog]

Thanks man! Looks like my parts will all be here today. Unfortunately. It will be Thursday or Friday before I can install them.

Custom 6.80” flat Pitman Arm from Parts Mike landed.

 

[wngrog]

Got all the parts in. Finally.

Do it yourself PS hoses with AN fittings is the biggest no brainer ever.

Then I realized I’m still dead. The size I had Parts Mike ream my Pitman arm to is wrong. And the bad wrong. Too big.

Outsmarted myself again.

Hoping one of those 40 to 80 tie rod end adapter sleeves will make this right.

So close.

System is bled. No leaks. Just need a damn Pitman arm.

 

[cheeese]

Are those high-heat zip ties holding the insulation on, or are they temporary?

 

[wngrog]

Are those high-heat zip ties holding the insulation on, or are they temporary?

Regular. Did not know High Heat zip ties existed. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[Ol Yeller]

Regular. Did not know High Heat zip ties existed. Thanks for the heads up.

SS tie wire...

 

[wngrog]

Yeah I’ve used that on header wrap. This wrap was on another hose I bought and did not use. It was held on with plastic wire ties. I’ll watch em.

 

[wngrog]

While I had some help today with @USMC22 and @ntsaint we snatched the top off Patina. Sure would like to be driving it today. I’ll get a proper Pitman arm inbound tomorrow.

 

[BMThiker]

White/clear plastic zip ties are the most susceptible to UV/heat degradation. Quality black plastic ties are usually UV resistant, but high heat will kill just about any flexible plastic (non ABS/fiberglass reinforced).

Here's a good line of zips
Amazon product ASIN B001DEHZ14

 

[DirtRoads]

Regular. Did not know High Heat zip ties existed. Thanks for the heads up.

They do. They're usually blue.

 

[wngrog]

2 days shy of 2 months this project took me. After a bunch of missteps with parts along the way I can finally report that Project Patina is back on the road again under her own power.

Steering is nice and tight. I need to fine tune it and let all the bubbles work out if the system.

Steering slop is all gone. What a difference this makes eliminating 2 51 year old steering pieces.

 

[JackA]

Power steering.......you're getting soft....lol

 

[wngrog]

Power steering.......you're getting soft....lol

It was to rid myself of two non rebuildable steering parts. I didn’t need it to steer but I like to drive this thing fast and it was a bit scary.

 

[JackA]

It's all good. My wagon will get the same eventually.

 

[wngrog]

It's all good. My wagon will get the same eventually.

Got mine bled good today. It’s not 100% centered turn to turn but it’s incredible how smooth and slack free the steering is now.

Bad news is that something is amiss. I have a vacuum leak or something. It’s running rich and backfiring a bit.

Drives fine once you throttle through but something is wrong. Was the finest of fine tuned @FJ40Jim carbs before hand.

I replaced the carb gaskets but I’m still getting a throttle rise if I hit the base of the carb with carb cleaner.

Ordered more gaskets.....

 

[wngrog]

Went for a great drive today before it got too hot.

It’s amazing how nice this think steers now. Straight and true with very little if any steering slop.

The assumed vacuum leak is still there but does not effect how it drives. Just sounds like it has phlegm in its throat taking off in first.

I was damn near out of gas.

I’m going to play with my drag link to get the steering wheel straight versus pulling the wheel. I think I have a bit more steering to the passenger than driver side. This is kind of like math to figure out so it may take me a few tries.

Of course I had to stop for a pic

 

[wngrog]

 

[wngrog]

Speaking of fuel gauge, as you can see in the video, coming back from a tank of non ethanol my tank was still showing empty.

I was really bummed as that’s the only gauge in my cluster that works. It’s always been very accurate and reliable.

Got back. Checked switched 12v. It was hot. Terminal was clean.

Took my grounding tool and grounded the tank and the gauge lit up.

Turns out, the tank has been grounding itself from resting on the bare metal tub since I redid the wiring 3 years ago. Adding the Lizard Skin put a nice layer of rubber betweeen the two killing my ground.

I ran a small ground wire to the seam of the tank and now I have my gauge back.

It’s the little things.....

 

[wngrog]

Turd. Polished.

 

[wngrog]

3 years ago we gutted this bitch