What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (33 Viewers)

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Is there a parts list you followed for the interior leds?
The 4 door courtesy lamps, and the 2 front map lights are just 194 bulbs. The center dome and courtesy take 31mm festoon bulbs (3) and the rear dome takes a single 31mm festoon.

Order (6) 194s of your choosing, and (4) 31mm festoons of your choice and you're good for the interior. The following are what I ordered just last week for a Cruiser, and you'll even end up with a few left over 194s. All for less than $25:

31mm Festoon type
and
194/168 style
 
Stumble and fall. Code 306. New Denso ignition coil. Two bolts and one clamp later install took twenty seconds. Code gone, no misfire and stumble. Thank you Scan Gauge II from Comet (permanently installed in the 1997 80 series).
 
Nothing to repair but finally I had time to wash and drive the LX and took some pics


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:cheers:
 
Also fab’d up a rear shelf for stowing small items while sleeping in the back. Yea the side compartments are there, but I found myself wanting an “end table” sort of place to stash my glasses and other knick knacks. Strong 1/8” aluminum with a soft rubber lip. I may offer these for sale, any interest?
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Replaced my GROM Aux input with a BT-3. Pro tip: anyone upgrading between GROM units, the cables are the same so I didn’t have to pull the head unit, just unplugged the AUX Zane plugged in the BT-3. Really convenient.

@dwh13 How is the overall sound quality?.. I am planning to order one for my 04 LC
 
Decided the trailer needed some rock flaps as well. Bought some heavy rubber 18x24 flaps and broke out the 5/16 drill bit. Probably overkill, but the bolts to attach the flaps are Grade8 :)

Then, went on another Hill Country off-road shakedown. Trailer performed flawlessly. LX had a few hiccups with trans temps on off-road climbs (hit 213 on the trans temp at one point - see last pic). Hopefully the manual torque lock converter I'm getting will help address this. The temp fell off rapidly once I'd get to the top of the hill and begin steady cruising.

Anyway, next step for me is to start welding up some additional crossbars on the rack, awning mounts and devise a better way to manually lift and lower the rack (lower for transport and getting in the garage - raise for camping). Since I'll be adding on 4 removable sidewind trailer jacks to the trailer, I'm thinking of welding on 4 more of the pipe mounts a little higher to the corners of the trailer and then weld on some "feet" to each of the 4 vertical legs of the tent rack. My vision would be to be able to mount the trailer jacks inverted on the pipe mounts and crank against the "feet" that are welded to the vertical legs to raise the tent rack (would have to go around to each corner a little at a time) and then secure with a Grade 8 thru-bolt. Hopefully that all makes sense. I only need to lower/raise the tent rack approximately 9".

With the recent HVAC system failure at my house, I've had to reallocate a few grand of upgrade budget towards fixing that :( So, my grand plan for full onboard electrical with linear actuators, side boxes, sidemounted spare and a new top will have to go on temporary hold.

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Also fab’d up a rear shelf for stowing small items while sleeping in the back. Yea the side compartments are there, but I found myself wanting an “end table” sort of place to stash my glasses and other knick knacks. Strong 1/8” aluminum with a soft rubber lip. I may offer these for sale, any interest?
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I would be interested in something like that. What are the dimensions?
 
Decided the trailer needed some rock flaps as well. Bought some heavy rubber 18x24 flaps and broke out the 5/16 drill bit. Probably overkill, but the bolts to attach the flaps are Grade8 :)

Then, went on another Hill Country off-road shakedown. Trailer performed flawlessly. LX had a few hiccups with trans temps on off-road climbs (hit 213 on the trans temp at one point - see last pic). Hopefully the manual torque lock converter I'm getting will help address this. The temp fell off rapidly once I'd get to the top of the hill and begin steady cruising.

Anyway, next step for me is to start welding up some additional crossbars on the rack, awning mounts and devise a better way to manually lift and lower the rack (lower for transport and getting in the garage - raise for camping). Since I'll be adding on 4 removable sidewind trailer jacks to the trailer, I'm thinking of welding on 4 more of the pipe mounts a little higher to the corners of the trailer and then weld on some "feet" to each of the 4 vertical legs of the tent rack. My vision would be to be able to mount the trailer jacks inverted on the pipe mounts and crank against the "feet" that are welded to the vertical legs to raise the tent rack (would have to go around to each corner a little at a time) and then secure with a Grade 8 thru-bolt. Hopefully that all makes sense. I only need to lower/raise the tent rack approximately 9".

With the recent HVAC system failure at my house, I've had to reallocate a few grand of upgrade budget towards fixing that :( So, my grand plan for full onboard electrical with linear actuators, side boxes, sidemounted spare and a new top will have to go on temporary hold.

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Are you in low range when the trans gets this hot?
 
Are you in low range when the trans gets this hot?

No. I'm doing the Pin7 mod on my 98LX so I can manually select whether or not to engage the CDL in 4LO. I did notice on another short hill where I engaged 4LO, the trans temps didn't climb as high. Presumably because I could get into 3rd at a lower speed and the engine wasn't having to try as hard due to the gearing help.

I have 2 big concerns with the trans temps:

1) Towing off-road. Seems that might be mitigated by 4Lo
2) Towing on-road in mountains. Not sure if being in 4Lo (with CDL disengaged) is the best idea or even possible. I would think that since I wouldn't have the CDL engaged, there wouldn't be any additional binding in the drivetrain beyond what would be present in 4Hi. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think of the transfer case like the 2 front chain rings on a bicycle and the transmission as the 4 speeds on the rear cogset. When you climb steep hills on a bike, you use the smaller front ring. The Torque Lock Converter seems to make the most sense in these cases where I can stay in 4Hi, but lock the converter in 3rd.
 
Do the pin7 mod - that basically makes your 4Lo a lot more usable. I am not sure what the onroad towing experience be like with 4 Lo (I think the gearing maxes out before you reach highway speeds) but for lower speed towing it will definitely help with trans temps.

Also before doing anything as drastic as torque converter manual lock, perhaps a bigger trans cooler will be less intrusive and still as effective?

No. I'm doing the Pin7 mod on my 98LX so I can manually select whether or not to engage the CDL in 4LO. I did notice on another short hill where I engaged 4LO, the trans temps didn't climb as high. Presumably because I could get into 3rd at a lower speed and the engine wasn't having to try as hard due to the gearing help.

I have 2 big concerns with the trans temps:

1) Towing off-road. Seems that might be mitigated by 4Lo
2) Towing on-road in mountains. Not sure if being in 4Lo (with CDL disengaged) is the best idea or even possible. I would think that since I wouldn't have the CDL engaged, there wouldn't be any additional binding in the drivetrain beyond what would be present in 4Hi. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think of the transfer case like the 2 front chain rings on a bicycle and the transmission as the 4 speeds on the rear cogset. When you climb steep hills on a bike, you use the smaller front ring. The Torque Lock Converter seems to make the most sense in these cases where I can stay in 4Hi, but lock the converter in 3rd.
 
Lifted my 07' LX470 with a OME 2.5'' medium load kit. I am now wondering how to get slightly more lift, specifically in the rear? I see 10mm rear spring spacers on @sleeoffroad , are these compatible with an OME lifted truck? Also, heavy shocks are not an option at this point. It is my understanding that if these spacers are compatible, I could install them on the rear and simply adjust TB's for +10mm in front, retaining the rake set by Slee. any advice/suggestions/feedback is much appreciated!
 
Any rear spring spacers made for 80, 100 or 200 series will fit. Slee, Dobinson and @TRAIL TAILOR has spacers. I have OME springs in the back and wanted a little more so I put 30mm spacers in the back.

The front TBs can be cranked for additional height but you will need to be cautious of not having enough droop. If your TBs weren't re-indexed they may not have much room left for cranking either. 2.5" is pretty much the max I have seen on these trucks!


Lifted my 07' LX470 with a OME 2.5'' medium load kit. I am now wondering how to get slightly more lift, specifically in the rear? I see 10mm rear spring spacers on @sleeoffroad , are these compatible with an OME lifted truck? Also, heavy shocks are not an option at this point. It is my understanding that if these spacers are compatible, I could install them on the rear and simply adjust TB's for +10mm in front, retaining the rake set by Slee. any advice/suggestions/feedback is much appreciated!
 

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