Builds 75 Series Truck - VZ shade tree special (2 Viewers)

[2fpower]

and first order from Toyota

 

[2fpower]

The backing plate on the passenger rear was mangled up on the bottom; however, the VZ spec part number was no longer available. I assume bolt pattern is the difference. I ordered a standard backing plate from my local dealer, and may have to weld them together to make it look right.

 

[2fpower]

Let me get this right..... you put your left foot in, you take the same left foot out....then you put your right foot in then you shake it all about????

Put the oil cooler on with the new gasket, and then started filling with water again..... then came the waterworks...

You’re looking at the tail end of the head. The lower freeze plug appears to be a water galley. Sounds like we are pulling an engine

 

[2fpower]

Since I am going to have to pull the engine to be able to pop in this freeze plug, so might as well do the head gasket, and since I am taking apart the bottom end, might as well rebuild the engine.

I keep getting ahead of my self, but want to prepare for that step.... First need to confirm we don't have other issues with the water leaks, then I can start ordering parts to do this. Wish I could test the tranny before I had to pull the engine, but passed that step.

I have a grind kit for a 1FZ FE, and just looked up parts and it appears the head gasket and most gaskets are the same part number. Head is different part number 11101-69095, which appears to be on a lot of forklifts, so is available. Major differences are no EGR, fuel pump is mounted on head. The unfortunate thing is our local club has a head swap deal so we always have a rebuilt head sitting ready to be swapped into a rig. Of course it won't work on this rig.... so will have to wait for a shop to do the work.

So question for Sir @Onur - I have a grind kit, and now likely need to do the whole engine rebuild, so I will need a few more gaskets. Here is my list, what am I missing?

916271-66020 water pump gasket
0311-99006 Rear main seal
15147-66010 oil strainer pickup gasket
96721-19010 O ring for dipstick tube.
90301-73004 O ring for cylinder block rear? Not sure what this part is 11271-66010, but it shows a gasket???
timing gear stuff. 96721-24022 and 96761-24042 and 15785-66010

front seal, front oil pump gasket (have these already)

non-us stuff.
90923-06016 Fuel pump insulator (carb specific part)
21165-66010 carb insulator
15785-66010 another oil cooler gasket??

 

[cruisermatt]

Why do you need to rebuild the engine or replace the headgasket? it runs, right? You could probably just undo the bellhousing bolts, pull the engine forwards, put the freeze plug in. Few hours.

 

[2fpower]

Why do you need to rebuild the engine or replace the headgasket? it runs, right? You could probably just undo the bellhousing bolts, pull the engine forwards, put the freeze plug in. Few hours.

You have a point..... My thought is if I need to pull the engine out to do this freeze plug, I might as well put it on a stand and flip it over to do all the bearings and rear main, then at that point why not.......... Definate case of "while you are at it"....

I will noodle your thoughts. I will feel like a fool if I don't do the head gasket while it is out and it is bad.

 

[cruisermatt]

I don’t buy into “while you’re in there” any more.
I don’t see why you need to pull the engine completely out? You have the radiator out, right? You can’t pull the engine 6”-8” forwards?
Headgaskets aren’t time bombs.. they’re good or they’re not. The bearings looked fine and you did a compression test right? No water in the oil, and no oil in the water?

Just me though. I like driving Land Cruisers more then wrenching on them.

 

[2fpower]

I don’t buy into “while you’re in there” any more.
I don’t see why you need to pull the engine completely out? You have the radiator out, right? You can’t pull the engine 6”-8” forwards?
Headgaskets aren’t time bombs.. they’re good or they’re not. The bearings looked fine and you did a compression test right? No water in the oil, and no oil in the water?

Just me though. I like driving Land Cruisers more then wrenching on them.

You bring up some good points, really do apprecate your thoughts, as I fall into the while you are at it quite a bit and I am trying to do this right, but not doing a full restoration.

I can't confirm water/oil and oil/water, as the oil cooler was blown apart and the two clearly were mixing up. Weak points are freeze plugs and the oil cooler, so hoping that is the extent of the damage, but can't rule out a cracked in the head until I pressurize it. So, my plan regardless if I pull it forward or pull it out is to pop the freeze plug in and then pressurize the system.

Local dealer has some freeze plugs on the shelf, so I will grab those today.

 

[FJBen]

Personally, seeing whats going on with this engine and actually almost every part of the vehicle, there would be ZERO chance of me NOT rebuilding this engine. You don't know how many miles are actually on this...and by the looks this rig has had a tough life. I get budget and time, but this isn't a soccer mom 80 series that was just neglected.

I would hate to "fix" little things, get it running then pull it out again. At the rate you are knocking this thing out, you should be able to get it rebuilt and KNOW you don't have to worry about anything else on the engine. Magnaflux block and the head, clean it, rebuild and enjoy.

 

[G-Cat]

I agree with Matt if I am paying a shop for the work. If I had 2fpower skills, I'd do all kinds of "While I'm in there".

At this point, I'd lean towards throwing the 1FZ in there (again, if I had the skillset)

 

[SNLC]

I would put money on that truck being shipped to the USA with water in the block. Some cold temps and the plugs went which is what they are supposed to do.

Much better than a crack block.

Cheers

 

[Honger]

I would put money on that truck being shipped to the USA with water in the block. Some cold temps and the plugs went which is what they are supposed to do.

Much better than a crack block.

Cheers

I was gonna say something similar... based on the bad freeze plugs (multiple now) and the cracked oil cooler I'm betting some water froze and got you where you are now.

These are bulletproof motors. You've got good compression numbers. You've satisfied yourself on the bottom end bearings.

Keep this drive-able so you can teach those kids how to drive a manual.

 

[2fpower]

Again, I appreciate everyone’s thoughts...., Decided to pull the engine 4 inches forward to be able to pop in the new plug and see if that fixed it Well, I didn’t want to type this this morning to give me some bad luck but still it happened....

So when looking at what gaskets I need this morning to do full engine rebuild I saw there was a freeze plug in the head up underneath the timing cover.... it must be out

I also had water coming down the oil journal in the back..... assuming that water is somehow filling the valve area

 

[Honger]

This is the gift that keeps on giving...

 

[2fpower]

So here weg go. Thanks to @tornadoalleycruiser for the long-term hoist rental

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

That hoist has pulled a lot of cruiser engines. We should have put notches in it per engine

 

[2fpower]

And we officially have a boat anchor.... well at least the head is ruined. This is at top of timing chain area. in bottom picture you can see where my scope is pointed. right at the top. Oh well.....

 

[2fpower]

This is the gift that keeps on giving...

And I thought Christmas only came once a year.

 

[cruisermatt]

Ok, now that is a justified engine pull.

 

[2fpower]

Well, if it wasn’t for that reason....,