Crank, no start - after repairing starter (1 Viewer)

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Apr 2, 2018
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Bozeman, Montana
So...I replaced the solenoid contacts on my starter. It now cranks great, every time. One problem though.....it now does not fire???!!!

It's a 1984 HJ60 with a 2H motor. Mechanical injection, so how the hell can it not fire? I didn't touch the fuel system. It cranks better than ever now, with the new solenoid contacts. Is there some kind of wire that doesn't allow it to send fuel? Is this one of those freak coincidences, when you fix something, and something totally unrelated breaks simultaneously??? Any ideas? It's never had a problem starting before - just the solenoid not working. Aggravating to say the least.
 
My 13BT engine has a "vacuum shut off valve". When the key is turned on, electricity keeps the valve closed (I think). When key is off, lack of electricity allows valve to open and pull intake butterfly shut, thus killing engine.

When my shut off valve died, the vehicle would not start because the valve was open.

The temporary fix was to find the vacuum line responsible and to take it off.
 
My 13BT engine has a "vacuum shut off valve". When the key is turned on, electricity keeps the valve closed (I think). When key is off, lack of electricity allows valve to open and pull intake butterfly shut, thus killing engine.

When my shut off valve died, the vehicle would not start because the valve was open.

The temporary fix was to find the vacuum line responsible and to take it off.
Hmmmm.....this is weird. I'll look around to see if I find anything resembling that. It seems weird that fixing a starter would mess with anything, but years ago, on an 86 bronco I had, I changed a fuel filter for the heck of it....and truck was down for 6 weeks. Turned out to be completely unrelated electrical part (thin film something or other) sensor B.S. part that crapped out by pure coincidence at the same time. I trouble shot the fuel system for days....brutal. The 86 bronco was the first year of fuel injection on bronco 302 motors, so it was a s*** show. There are so many of these 2H motors out there - someone will know the obvious fix.
 
When you removed the battery cable did you maybe disturb one of the glow plug fusible links? I have a 2h that doesn't like to start without the glow system working. The fusible links on mine are located near the passenger side battery terminal. A test light on the glow rail should tell you if it is getting lit up.
 
When you removed the battery cable did you maybe disturb one of the glow plug fusible links? I have a 2h that doesn't like to start without the glow system working. The fusible links on mine are located near the passenger side battery terminal. A test light on the glow rail should tell you if it is getting lit up.
I'll take a look. I just changed the fuel filter - since I needed to do it anyway....so now I'll bleed the system. This kind of stuff drives me nuts.
 
Is the edic moving to the correct positions?
 
I'll take a look. I just changed the fuel filter - since I needed to do it anyway....so now I'll bleed the system. This kind of stuff drives me nuts.

You changed the fuel filter? or you did this after the no-start fault developed? If you didnt pre-fill it the system will need re-priming.

if you hadnt touched the filter and the no-start fault developed, I'm with other posters who've suggested you may have disturbed the glow system.. 12V applied directly to the glow rail will get you started (5 seconds) until you can fully diagnose the fault.
 
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Is the edic moving to the correct positions?
I'm not sure what the "edic" is? The glow pugs are getting juice - so that eliminates the glow plug theory.

Here's a question---Does the ignition wire on the starter have any function other than telling the starter to turn? Is there some type of thing (wire,sensor) that would tell the fuel pump not to send fuel? It seems to me that it should be a electrical issue, since I only pulled the starter off, and Bam! this happened?? Kick to the groin.
 
The EDIC( I forget what it stands for) puts the fuel pump in start, run or stop modes. Its an electrically powered arm near the fuel pump with a rod attached. You should see it move as the key is turned
Im not too familiar with them, but it definitely needs to be activated to start the engine.

pic
2004811
 
The glow pugs are getting juice - so that eliminates the glow plug theory.

The starter wire has no secondary function that would control engine starting.

How exactly have you confirmed that the glow system is working? If its an HJ60 fitted with the superglow system there's a myriad of faults that will cause it to misperform. I would strongly recommend getting a big fat peice of wire and applying 12V+ directly to the glow rail for 5-10 seconds then immediately trying to start it again.
 
The starter wire has no secondary function that would control engine starting.

How exactly have you confirmed that the glow system is working? If its an HJ60 fitted with the superglow system there's a myriad of faults that will cause it to misperform. I would strongly recommend getting a big fat peice of wire and applying 12V+ directly to the glow rail for 5-10 seconds then immediately trying to start it again.
I just checked with a test light...it lit up. So, these 2H motors require glow plugs even when it is summer time?....seems weird. My unimog doesn't even have glow plugs, and my International 530 didn't have them either, neither did a couple Kenworths, Volvos, and Macks I've driven. They sucked to start when cold, but still would. Don't get me wrong - I'll try it, it just seems odd that it would start with glow plugs, but not even try without.

Are you suggesting that I basically touch one end of a wire to the hot side of the battery and the other end to the glow plug rail for a couple of seconds to see if it changes things?...or how would I do it?

I even gave it a small shot of starting fluid...it sputtered, but no start.
 
The EDIC( I forget what it stands for) puts the fuel pump in start, run or stop modes. Its an electrically powered arm near the fuel pump with a rod attached. You should see it move as the key is turned
Im not too familiar with them, but it definitely needs to be activated to start the engine.

pic View attachment 2004811
I'll look for this EDIC thing. Any idea which way is run, and which way is stop?
 
Are you suggesting that I basically touch one end of a wire to the hot side of the battery and the other end to the glow plug rail for a couple of seconds to see if it changes things?...or how would I do it?

Yes that's exactly what I am suggesting, get a nice fat piece of wire, and give the glow rail direct 12V+ for 10 seconds.. then try starting the vehicle.

The EDIC rod should PULL the fuel control lever towards the firewall for start. It will PUSH the fuel control lever towards the radiator for stop.
 
So, I got it fired...:). The EDIC thing was the issue. I wiggled it around for a while, then had my assistant try to start it, and it started!

BUT....now it is pulsing. The EDIC thing is moving back and forth as though it can't decide to run or stop??? Any ideas on that.

I also wiggled what may be the wire that goes to the EDIC...on the bottom or the EDIC near the starter. I'm not sure if the wire wiggle was the key, or the working of the EDIC rod back and forth???
 
You may have disturbed an Engine or body earth when you did the starter.. this often causes the EDIC issues you've described.. and may have contributed to your glow issue.
 

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