- Thread starter
- #61
We picked up the frame yesterday and assembled what we could.
Builds 1974 HZJ40 Build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter The Eradicator
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A fresh frame....so much nicer to work on clean painted stuff.
Working on boxing these 2 bad boys up.
I will send an email shortly.
Ken
Working on boxing these 2 bad boys up.
I will send an email shortly.
Ken
- Thread starter
- #63
More assembly...
Steering box was rebuilt by West Texas Offroad.
New taillights from Cruiser Outfitters.
Steering box was rebuilt by West Texas Offroad.
New taillights from Cruiser Outfitters.
Wow, awesome build and great engine combo. I am wondering if the 73 roller project I just bought from @joekatana was your 1hz engine donor? Doesn't really matter either way but if so maybe someday the two trucks will be together and the body can say hello to its heart! Going 12h-t in the 73 because that is what I have. Only if the funds and a 1hd-t don't show up first
Wow, awesome build and great engine combo. I am wondering if the 73 roller project I just bought from @joekatana was your 1hz engine donor? Doesn't really matter either way but if so maybe someday the two trucks will be together and the body can say hello to its heart! Going 12h-t in the 73 because that is what I have. Only if the funds and a 1hd-t don't show up first
I have a 1HDT showing up at the shop soon if you want
Charlie-
Did you ever think of doing some more of these kinds of builds from the powder coated frames up? You have the skill set to do it. You could sell a built FJ40(or 45) for about 100 grand. Plenty of wheelers out there with the money and would rather someone else put the blood, sweat, and tears into it.
ZUK
Did you ever think of doing some more of these kinds of builds from the powder coated frames up? You have the skill set to do it. You could sell a built FJ40(or 45) for about 100 grand. Plenty of wheelers out there with the money and would rather someone else put the blood, sweat, and tears into it.
ZUK
Maybe a LS 347 ci crate engine with a kickass auto tranny. I'll get the 9.5" 4.10 ring/pinions cryo-treated and set them up just right.
Food for thought. You wouldn't have to do the 8-5 job thing.....be your own boss....for the rest of your life.
Food for thought. You wouldn't have to do the 8-5 job thing.....be your own boss....for the rest of your life.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #68
Ken
The thought has crossed my mind. If I were ever to go down that road, I think it would need to start out as a side project supported by stable work. I could see doing smaller jobs for people evolving into that, but, for now, building vehicles for resale would require too large of an investment.
- Thread starter
- #69
With finals over, I've been moving pretty quickly on this project. I picked up the diffs last week and was able get the axles assembled. I opted to martack the front axle shafts rather than deal with the outer c-clips.
Everything lined up easily on both axles - a good sign that they stayed straight during welding. The original freewheel hubs from this axle stayed on the 73 when 80 axles went under it, so the 40 got a new pair from Cruiser Outfitters.
Drivetrain dropped in and we have a rolling chassis.
It felt weird lifting the beat up tub onto a freshly powdercoated frame.
Everything lined up easily on both axles - a good sign that they stayed straight during welding. The original freewheel hubs from this axle stayed on the 73 when 80 axles went under it, so the 40 got a new pair from Cruiser Outfitters.
Drivetrain dropped in and we have a rolling chassis.
It felt weird lifting the beat up tub onto a freshly powdercoated frame.
- Thread starter
- #70
While the tub was off, I cleaned the rust and old paint off of the floor and beat the big dents out of it, but I had to wait for it to go back on the frame before I could coat it because there were still a few bolt hole locations to finalize. Once those holes were drilled, I rolled on a couple coats of Magnapoxy 2k primer followed by two more of black Monstaliner.
I bolted the front of the body on to start looking at packaging under the hood.
I've been working on plumbing. The fuel lines are all hooked up. The grommet for where the hard lines come through the floor was missing and is NLA so I 3D printed one. I picked up an FJZ80 power steering high pressure hose. It is too long, but the fittings are correct, so I'll take it in Monday to be shortened. For the upper radiator hose, I'm using a cut down BJ73 lower rad hose. It's not perfect - it requires a slight extra bend, but it is very close.
I bolted the front of the body on to start looking at packaging under the hood.
I've been working on plumbing. The fuel lines are all hooked up. The grommet for where the hard lines come through the floor was missing and is NLA so I 3D printed one. I picked up an FJZ80 power steering high pressure hose. It is too long, but the fittings are correct, so I'll take it in Monday to be shortened. For the upper radiator hose, I'm using a cut down BJ73 lower rad hose. It's not perfect - it requires a slight extra bend, but it is very close.
- Thread starter
- #71
The engine bay is filling up quick. Power steering is all hooked up with a cooler mounted to the inner fender. You can also see the windshield washer reservoir from CCOT mounted to the radiator frame.
0.5 Gallon Viair tank mounted for a vacuum reservoir. I am waiting on fittings and hose to finish the lines to the brake booster and 4WD actuator.
I picked up this spare tire carrier from the classifieds. I had to space the tire up and out using 1" x 2" tube to get it to fit.
I am trying out some flexible 3D printer filament from E3D. This is the grommet for the E-brake cable where it passes through the body. It will work well for that, but I'll have to play with the print settings to get it right for other applications.
0.5 Gallon Viair tank mounted for a vacuum reservoir. I am waiting on fittings and hose to finish the lines to the brake booster and 4WD actuator.
I picked up this spare tire carrier from the classifieds. I had to space the tire up and out using 1" x 2" tube to get it to fit.
I am trying out some flexible 3D printer filament from E3D. This is the grommet for the E-brake cable where it passes through the body. It will work well for that, but I'll have to play with the print settings to get it right for other applications.
- Thread starter
- #72
I couldn't find a single premoulded hose that would work for the heater outlet, so I had to splice together two.
Here is the bracket for the air cleaner. It also provides a location to bolt the radiator frame to. I used a 22RE head bolt and a piece of tube as a sleeve to sandwich the tab on the rad frame.
The air cleaner is a Donaldson unit (G082527) with a rain hat (H000466) and mounting band (P777732). As you can see, it is a tight fit, but it clears and the bracket is solid so it shouldn't be rattling against the fender.
I had to notch the rain hat outlet to fit tighter against the cleaner so that it would clear the hood.
Here is the bracket for the air cleaner. It also provides a location to bolt the radiator frame to. I used a 22RE head bolt and a piece of tube as a sleeve to sandwich the tab on the rad frame.
The air cleaner is a Donaldson unit (G082527) with a rain hat (H000466) and mounting band (P777732). As you can see, it is a tight fit, but it clears and the bracket is solid so it shouldn't be rattling against the fender.
I had to notch the rain hat outlet to fit tighter against the cleaner so that it would clear the hood.
- Thread starter
- #73
Last post for now... Here is the bracket I made to support the radiator frame on the driver's side. The engine is in the way, so the best solution was to mount it to the steering box. With this in place, the radiator frame no longer moves at all.
The Aqualu storage tailgate arrived. It is wider and taller than a stock tailgate, so it does not fit flush with the body. It looks like Aqualu tubs have a wider opening with a lip for the weatherstripping to sit against. On a stock tub, it has to sit ~ 1/2" out from the body. It also uses a different bolt pattern for the hinges, so I made these brackets to adapt the bolt pattern and space it out the correct amount.
3D printed stops to keep it from rattling:
The Aqualu storage tailgate arrived. It is wider and taller than a stock tailgate, so it does not fit flush with the body. It looks like Aqualu tubs have a wider opening with a lip for the weatherstripping to sit against. On a stock tub, it has to sit ~ 1/2" out from the body. It also uses a different bolt pattern for the hinges, so I made these brackets to adapt the bolt pattern and space it out the correct amount.
3D printed stops to keep it from rattling:
Awesome work Charlie. Hate I didn’t get to wheel with you at the Ramble.
- Thread starter
- #75
The past couple of weeks have involved quite a bit of research and sourcing of parts, so I haven't been able to get as much done on the vehicle. Here is the valve that will operate the vacuum shift 4x4. This will panel mounted to the dash in one of the stock switch locations. I would like to 3D print a custom knob for it, but probably won't have time; the truck needs to be finished by August for the solid axle summit.
This was tough to find: the female connector housing for the injection pump wiring. Amayama was the only place that showed it as available and, surprisingly, they actually had it. Oftentimes, obscure parts like this will show up as available online when they really aren't.
Here is a panel for some electrical bits. Since the battery will be in the rear, the posts serve as a branch off point for the electrical system, as well as an easy jumper location. The high amp circuits will be handled by those three breakers. Constant power fuses and nearly all of the relays will be housed in the Littelfuse PDM seen here.
Controller for the instrument cluster and diesel tach interface mounted above driver's kick vent. The stock wiring harness is entirely trashed, so I will be building one from scratch. I could find a decent used one, but you would still be dealing with 40 year old parts. This way everything will be contained in one harness; no separate looms for all of the extras. So, I've been spending some money with Waytek, Mouser, Digi-Key, Corsa Technic, Eastern Beaver, and Coolerman.
Still waiting on intake hoses. The elbow is back-ordered, so it will be early-mid next month before I can wrap that up.
This was tough to find: the female connector housing for the injection pump wiring. Amayama was the only place that showed it as available and, surprisingly, they actually had it. Oftentimes, obscure parts like this will show up as available online when they really aren't.
Here is a panel for some electrical bits. Since the battery will be in the rear, the posts serve as a branch off point for the electrical system, as well as an easy jumper location. The high amp circuits will be handled by those three breakers. Constant power fuses and nearly all of the relays will be housed in the Littelfuse PDM seen here.
Controller for the instrument cluster and diesel tach interface mounted above driver's kick vent. The stock wiring harness is entirely trashed, so I will be building one from scratch. I could find a decent used one, but you would still be dealing with 40 year old parts. This way everything will be contained in one harness; no separate looms for all of the extras. So, I've been spending some money with Waytek, Mouser, Digi-Key, Corsa Technic, Eastern Beaver, and Coolerman.
Still waiting on intake hoses. The elbow is back-ordered, so it will be early-mid next month before I can wrap that up.
Nice job. Especially the printed grommet for the fuel lines! It is one of the very few things I have not been able to find for my rebuild. Any chance of you printing a few extra for sale. I am sure there must be many more than just me looking for one.
- Thread starter
- #77
Thanks. I was actually thinking of that back when I printed it, but didn't have the time. I might be able to do it in a couple months, though. I'll PM you then and see if you still need one.
In other news, the lugs for the battery cables haven't arrived yet, so I spent the day doing side tasks. Viair 420C compressor mounted under the driver's seat:
I grabbed these horns from a mid 2000s Mercedes van at a junkyard. Easy mounting and they look loud.
I bolted on a door to take a look at what needs to be done to adapt the later doors to early tub. It looks like the striker will need to move inboard - shouldn't be a problem. I still need to find a pair of check straps.
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Looking good dude. You’re in college too?
One thing I want to point out, I don’t think that steering cooler is going to be very effective there. I’d move it where it will be more exposed to fresh air, or make use a bigger one and put a fan on it.
One thing I want to point out, I don’t think that steering cooler is going to be very effective there. I’d move it where it will be more exposed to fresh air, or make use a bigger one and put a fan on it.
- Thread starter
- #79
I'm not in classes right now - I finished my mechanical engineering associate's last semester and will be transferring for the fall.
Thanks for the advice on the cooler. I was going to put it in front of the radiator, but there isn't room. I'll keep an eye on the temps and figure something else out if it's too toasty.
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Did you put a sensor in there? That would be a neat thing to monitor although I don’t think you have a ton to worry about with 33” tires and no hydroboost or hydro assist. cooler steering fluid is always better though.
