For Sale Austin, TX: 1997 Lexus LX450 w/ blown engine (1 Viewer)

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Location
United States
No F/R lockers; silver; currently in Liberty Hill.

Truck is in average condition for having 230k miles. I purchased in the middle of last year. On the way from Dallas to Fort Worth after buying it, it overheated due to a radiator leak. Trailered it back to Austin and replaced just about the entire cooling system, including the radiator, radiator hoses, and water pump. I did not do the PHH because I only have so much patience, but there’s no indication of any current issues with it (and hey, you’re gonna pull at least the heads so perfect time to do it).

After Thanksgiving I was headed back to Austin from Fort Worth and the engine started to overheat again, vibrate, and lose power. Pulled off into a parking lot and let it cool down. Started it again and got tons of smoke out of the exhaust (light gray, so maybe a mix of coolant and oil). Trailered it back to Austin and the engine wouldn’t start, just made a loud clunking sound. At some later point it started up and ran enough to move it a few hundred feet. Initially hoped it was the head gasket but once we got it back to Austin started working off the assumption it’s probably a bottom end issue.

BUT THEN it started up and, after moving it around a few times, started running a lot better. Idle is really rough, but once the RPMs get over ~2k or so, the engine runs smoothly (...ignoring the large amounts of grey smoke it produces). So, we're back to thinking it's a top end issue (e.g., head and valve stem seals).


Prior to its near death, it was burning oil fairly rapidly.

Things that have been done since I got it: Replaced the shocks with KYB Gas-a-Just shocks and the steering dampener with the Old Man Emu dampener. Replaced front and rear door speakers. Replaced a bunch of other small stuff, including a new Optima yellow top battery. Sunroof leaked so I had standard maintenance done to it by Texas Auto Tops of Austin which solved the problem, which was caused by the drains being clogged. Had Land Cruiser Specialists do about $2500 worth of work, including: new axle seals, brake pads, repacked birfields, wheel bearings, hub seals, cleaned throttle body, replaced EGR vsv, and fixed some vacuum leaks.

I replaced the PS pump, still squealed, so I had Land Cruiser Specialists replace the new one. Still squeals. Replaced the tires with BFG AT T/A KO2 tires, which now only have 5-10k miles. Transmission is a little clunky shifting into drive sometimes but otherwise shifts well. A/C/heater works well.

Discovered the fuel tank has a leak on the top where the fuel filler connects. This has apparently become a common issue and necessitates a tank replacement unless you want to weld on a fuel tank (not viewed as a particularly good idea). Paint clear coat is spotty.

When we got it back to Austin after I first bought it, we discovered that the rear driver side quarter panel had been repainted and the color didn’t completely match (not particularly noticeable depending on the light). The fender flare paint on that quarter panel started coming off/bubbling soon thereafter.

I have a removable roof rack for it.

Other issues:

1. Pinstripes were kinda removed (probably so they didn’t have to replaced after the quarter panel repaid)
2. Minor oil leaks, including the distributor (not surprising on a truck of this age)
3. Lowest part of the side cladding on one side is missing (an inch or two tall piece that runs just below the doors)
4. At least two window seals need to be replaced (it’s safe to assume they’ll all need to be replaced). No issues in rain but result in a lot of wind noise and high pressure water (e.g., from a power washer) will get through.
5. Some of the door seals are starting to lose small chunks. Does not appear to have any impact on the actual seal.
6. Front bumper corner is not entirely flush with the truck (off about a half inch).
7. Rear bumper has a dent/missing paint (sharp linear indentation like you would get from a door edge)
8. Cruise control doesn’t engage; haven’t pulled the code.
9. Triangle trim pieces in the corner of the front doors broke while trying to replace the speakers and will need to be replaced.
10. Some of the dash lights probably need to be replaced.
11. Front driver’s seat is starting to wear and get stiff but doesn’t have any major cracks yet (maybe still savable with some proper conditioning).
12. Front seat won’t move forward or back.
13. Carpet stain in the second row next to the center console.
14. Rear speaker covers were broken before replacing the rear door speakers; probably some modification required to get them to fit over the new speakers even for non-broken ones.
16. Three of the locks don't work (motors, most likely; driver's front and both rear doors)
17. Front driver side window has a broken track
18. Probably some additional minor issues I’m not remembering.

All total I probably put $3500 - 4500 into it before the engine issues. With the exception of the engine and rear quarter panel, most of the stuff is fairly minor/easy to fix (and the quarter panel is purely cosmetic).

Clean title. I have ~200 detailed pictures for potential buyers.

$5000 very negotiable

(super excited to see how many people still talk s*** about the price)

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You're almost certainly better off doing the HG and selling it for significantly more than you can as a non running rig.
It may be worth X in parts (which you'd likely do better parting out) but as a whole you're going to be on the losing end no matter what as a non runner.
I won't argue numbers cause you can ask whatever you want and someone might pay it, but it ain't gonna happen on Mud.
 
You're almost certainly better off doing the HG and selling it for significantly more than you can as a non running rig.
It may be worth X in parts (which you'd likely do better parting out) but as a whole you're going to be on the losing end no matter what as a non runner.
I won't argue numbers cause you can ask whatever you want and someone might pay it, but it ain't gonna happen on Mud.
Yes, I'm well aware of all of that.

It doesn't justify the absurdly low values people are throwing out or their reactions to my price.
 
How do you justify an $1800 valuation?

I justify an $1500 valuation by the fact Im willing to give you $1500 for the truck, get it home at around $300 and then part it out for $3000 or so depending on condition or possibly throw $1500 more at it and then try and get 5500 for it. Sounds like a lot of work for not much reward but i like doing these things in the winter months.

I also justify a $1800 valuation by the fact that someone beat me to the spot an went to $1800. You can take it or leave it but at the moment thats what I use to justify price. An open wallet. You find someone to step up an go to $2000 and I'lll agree that thats the value.

Dude it sucks that you spent a lot of time and money finding what you felt like was a quality truck only to have the engine let go on you but it happens. Doesn't mean you get all your money back.

Another option if you have the time and equipment is part it out. Lot of parts that are worth money. You could get 3k or so but its work and time consuming plus the left over mess.

One last option, if its as nice and special as you say then why not throw some more money at it and keep it for yourself. Your desired truck with new powerplant. What could be better.
 
Heres the catch that needs to be factored in....while it would be nice for the owner if it was a simple $800machine shop refresh of the head/ and $800-$1000 labor for the work...... there are a bunch of expensive unknowns:
1- head could be toast /not fixable.throw away, - then go source a used head - have that tqken to machine shop and now your adding another $1300.

2- shop gets head off and finds the block is also warped or etched pitted bad and needs to come out to be resurfaced. add another $1500.

3- then shop finds a big ol lip on the cylinders.....or they drop the pan and find some shavings.....and hou are now $3-4k in........with a decision to make..... do i go this far and not do bearings, rings etc.?

......aaaaaaand kaboom......Seller is now just deopped another $6k+ into his rig he wants to sell.....

Or the buyer who paid more than $1500 for this is wondering why hes 6months and $8k + into a rig ...when he could have just gone out and purchased a running driving low miler for $5500-6000.

The reason the seller is selling........is because he doesnt want to go down that rabbit hole

And the reason buyers want it cheap.....is they need some cushion in case the rabbit hole is deeper and costlier than just a simple headgasket.

Lots of unknowns. Some risk if the seller takes a chance.......and some risk if buyer takes a swing.. These all weigh on where the price settles out.
 
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I justify an $1500 valuation by the fact Im willing to give you $1500 for the truck, get it home at around $300 and then part it out for $3000 or so depending on condition or possibly throw $1500 more at it and then try and get 5500 for it. Sounds like a lot of work for not much reward but i like doing these things in the winter months.

I also justify a $1800 valuation by the fact that someone beat me to the spot an went to $1800. You can take it or leave it but at the moment thats what I use to justify price. An open wallet. You find someone to step up an go to $2000 and I'lll agree that thats the value.

I had multiple, higher offers within a week of listing it on Craigslist. So then I guess we agree your offer is ridiculous.

Dude it sucks that you spent a lot of time and money finding what you felt like was a quality truck only to have the engine let go on you but it happens. Doesn't mean you get all your money back.

Never thought I would.

Another option if you have the time and equipment is part it out. Lot of parts that are worth money. You could get 3k or so but its work and time consuming plus the left over mess.

One last option, if its as nice and special as you say then why not throw some more money at it and keep it for yourself. Your desired truck with new powerplant. What could be better.

No s***? Can't believe I never thought of that.
 
Heres the catch that needs to be factored in....while it would be nice for the owner if it was a simple $800machine shop refresh of the head/ and $800-$1000 labor for the work...... there are a bunch of expensive unknowns:
1- head could be toast /not fixable.throw away, - then go source a used head - have that tqken to machine shop and now your adding another $1300.

2- shop gets head off and finds the block is also warped or etched pitted bad and needs to come out to be resurfaced. add another $1500.

3- then shop finds a big ol lip on the cylinders.....or they drop the pan and find some shavings.....and hou are now $3-4k in........with a decision to make..... do i go this far and not do bearings, rings etc.?

......aaaaaaand kaboom......Seller is now just deopped another $6k+ into his rig he wants to sell.....

Or the buyer who paid more than $1500 for this is wondering why hes 6months and $8k + into a rig ...when he could have just gone out and purchased a running driving low miler for $5500-6000.

The reason the seller is selling........is because he doesnt want to go down that rabbit hole

And the reason buyers want it cheap.....is they need some cushion in case the rabbit hole is deeper and costlier than just a simple headgasket.

Lots of unknowns. Some risk if the seller takes a chance.......and some risk if buyer takes a swing.. These all weigh on where the price settles out.

None of this is new information and at least some of it blatantly doesn't apply. You also ignore the fact that rebuilt engines can be had for ~$4k. If you've already spent $3k into an engine tear down and you're just now figuring out that the engine block is ****ed, you're a moron.

Like...why would someone drop the pan after already having taken the cylinder heads off and sent them off to be machined? If you don't have your head up your ass, the first thing you'd do is drain the oil and send it off to get analyzed.

Once again, you're full of s***.
 
None of this is new information and at least some of it blatantly doesn't apply. You also ignore the fact that rebuilt engines can be had for ~$4k. If you've already spent $3k into an engine tear down and you're just now figuring out that the engine block is f***ed, you're a moron.

Like...why would someone drop the pan after already having taken the cylinder heads off and sent them off to be machined? If you don't have your head up your ass, the first thing you'd do is drain the oil and send it off to get analyzed.

Once again, you're full of s***.

Damn man, such a bitter attitude. I work in the car business buying cars allllll day long. I know another guy that works in the car business and buys and sells tons of cruisers. Between the two of us we've bought literally tons of cars. Some running, some not. I've also spent tons of time looking for 80s and paying attention to the market. My first attempt at an 80 was a $1000 money pit with a 3FE since $1000 sounded cheap to me. I have a VERY good idea what this truck is worth.

$1800-2000 max. For me personally? I'd probably pay no more than $1500. Either way you look at it you're gonna spend another 1500-2000 on it, so you'll have ~3500 in a non locked lx450 thats worth 5000. That 1500 is the reward for spending time and energy and dealing with the bull**** of getting it running. You have absolutely zero chance selling it to someone who knows what they're doing for more than that.

Now on the flip side, I believe you absolutely do have a chance putting it on fb marketplace or craigslist for $3500 and getting $3000 for it from someone who doesn't know what their doing (ex: me a few months ago, knowing little about 80 series except that I wanted a cheap one I could fix up myself)
 
Craigslist offers don’t count- it’s still for sale I see
 
Heres a good example for you. Buddy blew an hg same as you.

Gets it apart. Takes head to machine shop- turns out the head is warped beyond out of spec so they recommend he find another,

he drops $300 for a used one. Takes that to the machine shop. That one they find a crack between the valves and warping right on the cutoff oem spec. That one goes into trash.

So he finds a third head- $450 which ( hes now wary and decides to pay a bit more for one that was pulled from a running engine- not blown hg one- takes that to machine shop for inspection and rebuild.........and it turns out that one is more than warped beyond toyotas recommendations. The guy who sold it to him osnt answering phone or texts and lives far away.

4th times a charm..... head just needs a few valves.....and the $880 machine shop bill plus $1050 in heads has him $1900 into his its just a headgasket job.

Luckily he doesnt have a shop doing it and minimizing labor costs.....but start adding up Assorted other costs: oem head bolts arent cheap. And rhen all the while you are in there stuff like full cooling system overhaul which should be done etc etc. list can add up $ fast. Even diy . So if hes $3k into it doing it all himself.....id imagine a shop going thru all this would put that to an easy $5k real fast.

Givenyou are already $7500-10k into this cruiser.(depending on purchase price) ......i dont think the prospect of potentially adding another $3-5k looks like the attractive option vs simply recouping 20-25% percent of that cost and putting $2k in your wallet.
 
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Damn man, such a bitter attitude. I work in the car business buying cars allllll day long. I know another guy that works in the car business and buys and sells tons of cruisers. Between the two of us we've bought literally tons of cars. Some running, some not. I've also spent tons of time looking for 80s and paying attention to the market. My first attempt at an 80 was a $1000 money pit with a 3FE since $1000 sounded cheap to me. I have a VERY good idea what this truck is worth.

$1800-2000 max. For me personally? I'd probably pay no more than $1500. Either way you look at it you're gonna spend another 1500-2000 on it, so you'll have ~3500 in a non locked lx450 thats worth 5000. That 1500 is the reward for spending time and energy and dealing with the bulls*** of getting it running. You have absolutely zero chance selling it to someone who knows what they're doing for more than that.

If I fixed the head gasket and put it for sale for $5k, it'd sell in a few days. That's significantly lower than market value.
 
:deadhorse::deadhorse::deadhorse::deadhorse:


I think he gets it. Let the dude post it for what he wants.
Yeah, this site is full of twats. But I already knew that...and why I tried my best to think ahead. Apparently I underestimated the level of stupid.
 
Heres a good example for you. Buddy blew an hg same as you.

Gets it apart. Takes head to machine shop- turns out the head is warped beyond out of spec so they recommend he find another,

he drops $300 for a used one. Takes that to the machine shop. That one they find a crack between the valves and warping right on the cutoff oem spec. That one goes into trash.

So he finds a third head- $450 which ( hes now wary and decides to pay a bit more for one that was pulled from a running engine- not blown hg one- takes that to machine shop for inspection and rebuild.........and it turns out that one is more than warped beyond toyotas recommendations. The guy who sold it to him osnt answering phone or texts and lives far away.

4th times a charm..... head just needs a few valves.....and the $880 machine shop bill plus $1050 in heads has him $1900 into his its just a headgasket job.

Luckily he doesnt have a shop doing it and minimizing labor costs.....but start adding up Assorted other costs: oem head bolts arent cheap. And rhen all the while you are in there stuff like full cooling system overhaul which should be done etc etc. list can add up $ fast. Even diy . So if hes $3k into it doing it all himself.....id imagine a shop going thru all this would put that to an easy $5k real fast.

Givenyou are already $7500-10k into this cruiser.(depending on purchase price) ......i dont think the prospect of potentially adding another $3-5k looks like the attractive option vs simply recouping 20-25% percent of that cost and putting $2k in your wallet.
Maybe if he had a shop doing it, he wouldn't have had to go through three trash heads because they'd know what they were doing.

Again, if you're spending $3k for a ****ing head, you're a ****ing moron.
 
IT HAS 365K MILES

365k miles with a running engine > non running and driving example

As you already have seen posting on here for sale can open many cans of worms. It's a nice looking truck, probably in the $6k range if fully operational, as it stands I'd say $2000 max, likely closer to $1800.

If its just a head gasket I'd get it taken care of and it'll be a lot easier to sell.
 
We can all learn apparently from your buying and selling strategies......or in the words of another texan “strategery”. :)

im a little slow and trying to wrap my head around the poser pic of your broken cruiser next to a Landrover..... i think theres some sort of equivalency there ??
 
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365k miles with a running engine > non running and driving example
Did you purposefully ignore all the other differences?

I know that the inability to make factual distinctions is a plague, but you guys are absolutely amazing.
 
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We can all learn apparently from your buying and selling strategies......or in the words of another texan “strategery”. :)

im a little slow and trying to wrap my head around the poser pic of your broken cruiser next to a Landrover..... i think theres some sort of equivalency there ??

I'd recommend just paying someone who knows what they're doing to figure it out for you instead of trying to do it yourself.
 
I reread the original ad

-Blown Headgasket
-Burning oil Rapidly before headgasket
-Squealing PS Pump
-Sometimes clunky transmission shifts
-Fuel Tank Leak
-Paint doesn't match
-Drivers window doesn't work

I really do appreciate the honesty in the ad. It's exactly how I would of listed it for sale. Like you, I would be trying to maximize what I got from it. I have no issue with your truck or the price you want from it. I have a 2001 740i and it would probably take $10k for me to let go of it, when the reality is it's worth $2000. I get it man.

But you posted this on a forum filled with experts. Filled with people who know exactly what your truck is worth in reality. And then you decided to get rude with everyone who started pointing things out.
 
I have bought quite a few 80 series with either blown motor or trans. Highest I have paid to date is $1,200.00. They are not Unicorns. The roller is worth $1,000.00. Axles can be had for $400 and up.

Fact is the truck is a crap shoot at best. As either a donor or swap candidate is where your buyer will come from.

I base these numbers on hard experience. I have 3 80 rollers sitting in front of my shop now and another in the shop under a 60 body.
 

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