FZJ80 died while idling for 10 minutes and has been shifting slow recently (1 Viewer)

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Chattanooga, Tennessee
For the last month my 80 has been shifting a little slower, I didn't think much of it since the 80s aren't known for their fast shifting, but yesterday, I put my car in park and left the AC running while I was waiting for someone. About 10 minutes of keeping the car in park the RPMs started jumping after being stable for the 10 minutes prior. After the RPMs had been jumping for about 30 seconds the car just died and the dashboard lit up like it usually does when it dies. I put the key back into the ignition instantly after it died and it started back again with no issues with RPM. I just checked my transmission fluid after letting the the car sit over night and the fluid read HOT despite not driving it over 16 hours ago. I attached below what the transmission dipstick read. I am a complete newb with this. Oil level and engine temps are fine. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

unnamed (8).jpg
 
Transmission is unrelated to the engine dying.

To properly check.your transmission fluid, you must drive it 10 miles or more to warm it up.

Then you check it with the engine running and with it in Drive. PARK (Edited to clarify per the FSM) (wheels chocked or parking brake set or against a curb). Truck must be level.

What you are seeing is typical for cold transmission with engine off.
 
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Transmission is unrelated to the engine dying.

To properly check.your transmission fluid, you must drive it 10 miles or more to warm it up.

Then you check it with the engine running and with it in Drive. (wheels chocked or parking brake set or against a curb). Truck must be level.

What you are seeing is typical for cold transmission with engine off.
Thank you I was pretty sure the transmission wasn't related to the engine dying but just wanted to make sure.
 
Transmission is unrelated to the engine dying.

To properly check.your transmission fluid, you must drive it 10 miles or more to warm it up.

Then you check it with the engine running and with it in Drive. (wheels chocked or parking brake set or against a curb). Truck must be level.

What you are seeing is typical for cold transmission with engine off.
How does this look?

IMG_0191 (1).jpg
 
If you drove it 10+ miles, stopped in DRIVE, pulled it, wiped it off, reinserted, pulled it and that's the result, I would say.you are one PINT low. Add the correct fluid (check owners manual), drive it, and check again.

It should be at the TOP hash mark, but not over it when it's correct and full.
 
If you drove it 10+ miles, stopped in DRIVE, pulled it, wiped it off, reinserted, pulled it and that's the result, I would say.you are one PINT low. Add the correct fluid (check owners manual), drive it, and check again.

It should be at the TOP hash mark, but not over it when it's correct and full.
Yeah the time i stopped it and checked it was probably less than a minute after driving. thanks!
 
If you drove it 10+ miles, stopped in DRIVE, pulled it, wiped it off, reinserted, pulled it and that's the result, I would say.you are one PINT low. Add the correct fluid (check owners manual), drive it, and check again.

It should be at the TOP hash mark, but not over it when it's correct and full.
Does it really need to be in drive? I am not doubting you I have just never been told this. It seems like a dangerous task for the factory to recommend.
 
Does it really need to be in drive? I am not doubting you I have just never been told this. It seems like a dangerous task for the factory to recommend.
You are correct. Toyota states in park.

See attached photo.

Every other vehicle I've owned is hot and idling in D with parking brake set.
1989821
 
Does it really need to be in drive? I am not doubting you I have just never been told this. It seems like a dangerous task for the factory to recommend.

Yeah I have never heard of checking automatic tranny in Drive that is the dumbest thing I have ever heard, and could really kill someone, the information, people put out here shocks me. o_O o_O o_O o_O o_O
 
Transmission is unrelated to the engine dying.

To properly check.your transmission fluid, you must drive it 10 miles or more to warm it up.

Then you check it with the engine running and with it in Drive. (wheels chocked or parking brake set or against a curb). Truck must be level.

What you are seeing is typical for cold transmission with engine off.


Are you kidding, check it in drive, dude if you do not know, don't touch the key board you may injure someone do to your ignorance :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
 
Lets get back on track.

What year 80 series are we working with here? 93-94 have the A442F with a stand-alone transmission control module which you can jump for diagnostic codes and the 95-97 have the A343 which has the transmission control module integrated within the ECU.
 
Are you kidding, check it in drive, dude if you do not know, don't touch the keyboard you may injure someone do to your ignorance :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

I've always checked my fluid with the trans in Neutral, I thought this was the standard because that's what my other Japanese cars require but I did just look at the FSM and now realized I've been doing it wrong............................
 
Lets get back on track.

What year 80 series are we working with here? 93-94 have the A442F with a stand-alone transmission control module which you can jump for diagnostic codes and the 95-97 have the A343 which has the transmission control module integrated within the ECU.

I'm going to have to look into this for my '93. It's started acting oddly in the shift from 3rd to 4th.
 
Here you go. This is the section in the FSM that will point you in the right direction, let me know if you have any questions.
 

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I've always checked my fluid with the trans in Neutral, I thought this was the standard because that's what my other Japanese cars require but I did just look at the FSM and now realized I've been doing it wrong............................

Yeah some Neutral and some park, but never drive :oops:
 

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