Builds 1963 FJ45LP SWB Fixed Top "Sweet Simplicity" (7 Viewers)

[cult45]

So a charge idiot light works by running two differing volts across two terminals and measuring the difference between them, in this case the output of the alternator and perhaps zero volts. Once the difference is less than what a charging alternator puts out the light glows. Bad explanation - I only know bc I just researched this. If an OEM idiot light is thin on the ground you could install an ammeter and an oil pressure gauge in that cluster and run a charge idiot light elsewhere. Not original but at least it will be practical.

Nice carbs btw!

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

Looks like I’m going this route


@FJC Mtneer where did you hook the voltage lead (I’m assuming a switched source)? Was thinking of something off the fuse panel, or did you inline fuse the meter?

Sorry just saw this. I hooked it to the ACC pin on the back of the ignition switch. IIRC that's actually where it's supposed to be. Works great.

 

[middlecalf]

Looks like original body color under the cab up to the front body mounts, Seminole Red or whatever the red was in ‘62/‘63, then black over orange primer on the kick panels and firewall. Of course there’s more rust than any of those. So maybe rust converter and gloss black like the frame? Maybe.

 

[FJ45VTOZ]

If you have gone to the trouble to remove the cab i would paint it original red; looks in pretty good shape. At least it will show you it was done properly and someone has not climbed under it with a black spray can

 

[middlecalf]

How does one go about removing the tool box? My spot weld drill bit setup doesn’t allow access to most of the spot welds. There’s a top flange on the sidewalls that’s bent the same direction as the bottom flange where the spot welds exist, preventing access. Really really really stupid design, only justifiable if there’s no expectation of needing access. But a really bad expectation. Is there a compact right angle spot weld drill setup, maybe for a Dremel or such?

I’m getting very close to bagging the metal replacement approach to the holes in the floor and going with the mesh/bondo approach. There’s are lot of rotten areas on this rig that supposedly had solid floors. My mistake.

 

[cult45]

Don't despair, you've come this far. Do it right or you'll be kicking yourself.

 

[KT40]

Can you locate the spot welds from the underneath. Since the body is off, makes it easy to access.

 

[middlecalf]

Maybe.

 

[S4Cruiser]

I used a spot weld cutter to remove the toolbox in my ‘70. I don’t remember it being any more miserable then any of the other spot welds I drilled out with that tool...they all kinda sucked! Sometimes drilling a small pilot hole to keep the spot weld cutter from waliking helped.

 

[middlecalf]

You’d think this thing was structural. Spot welds every 2 inches. Had to drill pilot holes through to find spot welds on the underside, only way to get access. Still a few welds can’t get to, have an oscillating tool coming hopefully that works. This thing wasn’t meant to come out. And this is the easy part. Very ugly.

 

[middlecalf]

Why wouid the instrument cluster bezel be chromed and then painted body color? This is after stripping.

Looks like chrome is a debatable issue. I’ll strip the glove box and see what it is. Even if original (but over chrome?) I’m not a fan of body colored dash stuff but the dash itself.

 

[middlecalf]

This was a bugger, right up there with the center arm shaft and shackle pins. It finally gave in to my new oscillating saw.

It will need some flange repair.

 

[middlecalf]

Now the fun begins.

Anyone ever remove the ledge behind the seat? The seam between the three panels (floor, ledge, cab sill) is shot in several places.

As well as the seams between the ledge and the back panel. I’d need to cut around the support channels, correct?

 

[middlecalf]

And continuing with dash PO stuff, got this glove box non-working locking knob off (somewhat cut off) while John P’s @pardion Pocket knob awaits install.

Just need to patch the nice big hole and restore the flange a bit first.

 

[cult45]

I have seen someone unpick the rear box, repair inside it and prime it prior to reassembly. Can’t recall if it was here or on Fakebook but I seen it with me own peepers. Personally I’d bolt the roof and windscreen on before committing to any structural welding.

 

[middlecalf]

Windscreen is no problem, it’s permanently attached, welded windscreen (somewhat of a rarity I guess). The roof is not very structural as is, it needs a bit of repair. I’m thinking of doing one edge of the box at a time, keeping the middle part intact, it has the seat brackets and tool box holddown tabs. I’ll have to accommodate seat belt brackets that are non-existing either way.

 

[middlecalf]

Guess I am doing a frame off. Lol.

At some point I’ll find where the rust stops.

Waviness in the pics is from bad pano photo technique.

 

[middlecalf]

Got both rockers off, even the angle channel at the front of each rocker that’s bolted in place. The bolt access inside the cab in the A pillar was a challenge. The lower bolt that bolts through the apron was simply cut.

Now on to the floor, ledge and sill. Interesting, there are the occasional bolts and nuts, all Toyota, but there’s also intermittent welds on the flanges. Does anyone know if the welds are original?

And another design or assembly concern - looks like the inside of the rockers has no treatment or primer. That explains a lot.

 

[middlecalf]

The driver’s side rear body mount is a bit wonky - not flat along the mounting surface. Can’t imagine how this got bent, it’s rather thick. I don’t have a torch that could get this hot enough to pound flat. It’s out-of-flat by 1/4” or so. Do you think I need to address this or will the rubber body mounts (there’s 6 on this cab) allow for this, maybe with a bit of shimming? Previous posts (a year ago, lol) show that the cab was mounted with big rubber shims, almost like a redneck body lift of sorts. I could also cut the top part off, flatten it and bend the sides vertical, and then weld it back on. I don’t think I want to cut the whole thing off.

 

[middlecalf]

Distraction from the body work, added a small scotch glass to the rig.