Builds DINGO- 60FZJ-UTE LS3 EROD (PROVEN CA SMOG) (2 Viewers)

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How do you clean the tcase housing so well? Thing looks amazing.
 
I received the Ron Davis radiator today and I have to say.... I walked around all day with a little spring in my step!

J

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What’s a unit like that cost and is it a direct replacement for the stock 60 radiator or do modifications need to be done for it to fit?


It is a direct bolt up pattern and no mods. Ron Davis will make the in/out to your specs. This one is for the LS3 Erod.

Price........... To quote @beno.... IF YA GOTTA ASK.................. $1565.00 shipped with all the goodies.


J
 
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It is a direct bolt up pattern and no mods. Ron Davis will make the in/out to your specs. This one is for the LS3 Erod.

Price........... To quote @beno.... IF YA GOTTA ASK.................. $1565.00 shipped with all the goodies.


J
What’s the warranty?
 
What’s the warranty?

All there on the website.....




Limited Warrantee:
Racing Parts have no warrantee. All others for a period of 90 days, Ron Davis Racing Products warrants that the products sold here under shall be free of defects in workmanship or materials. THIS WARRANTY IS EXCLUSIVE AND IN LIEU OF ANY WARRANTY OF MERCHANTABILITY, FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, OR OTHER WARRANTY OF QUALITY, WHETHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED. Ron Davis Racing Products does not warrant or guarantee installation or adjust ment of the part. This warranty does not cover damage due to misuse, abuse, negligence, improper installation, acts of God or other causes beyond the control of Ron Davis Racing Products. Any alteration or misuse of the product after manufacture voids this warranty in its entirety. In no event shall Ron Davis Racing Products be responsible for any indirect, incidental or consequential damages. In the event of a defect in workmanship or materials, purchaser’s or other user’s sole and exclusive remedy is for repair or replacement of the part without charge.

The following are failures that are not manufacturer defects and therefore not covered under warranty.

Improper Flush - Cooling systems require a through flush of the engine, overflow tank, hoses and heater core. Failure to do so will lead to mixing coolants and contaminates, creating a deadly cocktail for the radiator and cooling system.

Corrosion – The correct coolant mixture prescribed by the coolant manufacture of choice must be maintained. Mixing incompatible components can cause catastrophic damage to the radiator and cooling system.

Electrolysis – Electrolysis is the systematic removal of the protective layer on the inside of the radiator tubes due to improper grounding. Electrical grounding problems can stem from poor installation of aftermarket accessories or incorrect vehicle collision damage repairs on street applications. Brass components in the cooling system are to be avoided, as brass promotes electrolysis. (See attached instructions “Testing for Electrolysis in Cooling Systems”)
 
This build is looking really nice. I was wondering with the access. drive syst. you chose does the a/c comp. clear the frame? I know they sell another setup but was just thinking which setup would work better in that tight frame. Keep the nice work.
 
In a project like Jason's, I would only pick 2 manufactures for radiators. Ron Davis or Griffin. You cannot go wrong with either. Both are incredibly well built and neither manufacture will steer you wrong.

Quality comes at a price, something many people have forgotten in the age of cheap and disposable crap.
 
Great thread! I'm subscribed! I've been wanting to do this for a while now and you have me rethinking how to address the rear wheel arches and the wheelbase length (to fit an out of box solution for the tray). I was thinking of the below to address the wheel arches and would appreciate you thoughts on weither to go that way / or not. I did a vortec in an 80 a while back, Another Texas LS1 Swap, and ending up ditching the dual cats and did a Y pipe to a single 3" cat.

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Great thread! I'm subscribed! I've been wanting to do this for a while now and you have me rethinking how to address the rear wheel arches and the wheelbase length (to fit an out of box solution for the tray). I was thinking of the below to address the wheel arches and would appreciate you thoughts on weither to go that way / or not. I did a vortec in an 80 a while back, Another Texas LS1 Swap, and ending up ditching the dual cats and did a Y pipe to a single 3" cat.

View attachment 1957030


I'm at 132" wheelbase. I know it's a pic, but looks long in comparison to mine. Also, if you want to have anyone ride in the back seat DO NOT keep the angled rear glass. It is the easiest way to graft to the cut, but look at where your seat and headrest in the stock 60 are now. The head rest would be against the glass or further back. So you either have to remove leg room or have a negative angle rear seat...

I thought about a "full" rear door, but there is a lot of re-work and supporting to do it. A hybrid of the stock rear and front door merged together.

Just more work than I'm willing to do for basically the same out come; access to the rear seats.

J
 

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