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No I haven’t messed with it. Are you having the same issue?Did you resolve this?
Did you find a video or instructions on how to do it?I took apart a sender, it's easy to see how it could get stuck somewhere in the middle of the trace. You'd think one good bounce and it would fall to level. BUT the copper will be really dirty in the middle of the board.
I am noticing some weird behavior. I thought I was loosing my mind ( maybe I am) but it would show 3/4 then a short while later below 1/2, and I was thinking " I swear my gauge was higher when I glanced at it just a few minutes ago". Anyway I filled the other day- drove maybe 50 miles and it showed 1/2 full. Went and topped it off - it took 4 gallons and then showed 3/4full. In the morning it showed full. So I am having some intermittent inaccuracy. For the past few months I've only let the tank get to 1/2full before refilling. I'm wondering if its getting stuck. There really aren't many threads on the issue here, so the thought of bad float sensor was further down on the list and the possibility of a ground issue somewhere else affecting the gauge needle was on my mind until I saw JerryB's post.No I haven’t messed with it. Are you having the same issue?
its a regular mechanical float, in the tank, under the second row seat. Metal cover on the pump holder with black plastic clips and a screw, cigarette packet sized. it could just as easily be the needle in the meter also.
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Jerry-that pic was AFTER cleaning, lol. It was probably the worst looking trace I've ever seen on a oil or fuel needle. I didn't test it, I just cleaned, and only because I was checking three different fuel pumps back then. I had the tank open for a few days. It worked fine before I cleaned it. I did it just because it was sitting there.
there's probably fsm specs, maybe, in the book. Probably not a fool proof way to determine whats up, other than right then and there with ambient temp.
idk Exactly.
the DTE comes from the meter so I just assume whatever the needle says, is also what the nav screen says.
I think the motors the PCB for all those gauges on the late combo meter look different, far as I know from the early 100s.
I also know you can set the needle to wherever you want it to be on the late 100s meter. Meaning you can roll the needles to wherever you want them while the car is running.
I set my speedometer that way to read correct at 50mph so it's really good at 25-70mph. That's a hassle though separating that part of the panel.
I'd take the fuel float out and power it up with jumpers on the tank cover base and rotate through its range and see what the needle does. The fuel wires of that plug aren't going to be hot with key on but the float level will be. That should be a really easy test.
I don't know how it would act surrounded by air though. I'd spray it off with contact cleaner and cover the hole back up with towels before I did that. I'm sure you know what I'm getting at.
I'm pretty sure the 2005 has one plug each for pump and sender submerged, with a 5 wire single plug on top the white cover.
SO should be easy to remove and the sender and check with the white cover setting back down on the tank opening with jumpers on top.
Before I messed with taking the meter apart and dealing with possibly replacing the motors on the board I would definitely mess with that needle in conjunction with manipulating the tank level sender.
View attachment 1965068
Thanks for the input. I figure if Im going to go to the trouble of ripping the back seats out of the truck and open the tank Im going to replace sending unit and FP & filter while Im in there. If that doesnt solve it, I’ll move to the instrument cluster and start on the gauge.yes the needle in the guage instrument panel.
that pic was AFTER cleaning, lol. It was probably the worst looking trace I've ever seen on a oil or fuel needle. I didn't test it, I just cleaned, and only because I was checking three different fuel pumps back then. I had the tank open for a few days. It worked fine before I cleaned it. I did it just because it was sitting there.
there's probably fsm specs, maybe, in the book. Probably not a fool proof way to determine whats up, other than right then and there with ambient temp.
Thank you Sir- I tend to order everything I need ( and then some) ahead of pulling stuff apart, but I hadn't considered extra clips. I'll have to be extra careful. Appreciate the tip on seat removal- I was thinking about it today wondering if both the double and single needed to come out.probably looking for 5 vdc. any size, 4.5 I guess with any three batteries.
the 6 and 7 manual don't have that pic in the instrument panel info, I think they are completely different, I see they say stopper assuming they mean a needle resting position. The 06 and 7 don't have needle stoppers.
I'm sort of at a loss, I lost my high beam indicator, the blue light. I'm not the guy that can solder on the back of that circuit board.
I just took the double sized seat out, not both, to do the fuel pump. It's really pretty fast/easy.
new denso pumps can be had for cheap/er from Find My Part
have extra yellow fuel line clips incase you fling one off or bend it all up.