Man-a-Fre Auxiliary Fuel tank (1 Viewer)

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Jun 12, 2011
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Location
Los Gatos, CA
Finally time to upgrade my fuel system on my ‘74 40. Bought the overpriced man-a-fre auxiliary 21 gal tank to feed 5.7 LS recently installed. Fill neck suggestions? Anyone have experience with this system?
Planning on removing the under seat tank altogether. Tips and tricks?
Thx!
 
I used a spare stock filler tube from my '74 cruiser. Combined with the rubber tube that connected the filler tube to the tank. Then a short length of rubber filler hose and a piece of exhaust tubing expanded by the muffler shop to fill in the space.
 
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I purchased the BTB/Man-A-Fre tank in 2015 and installed it once I removed and disposed of the old stock tank which was rusty and leaky. Here is my experience.

Within several weeks the exterior started to rust where the paint was peeling away. My fault, I should have had it powder coated. I had the filler moved to the rear of the vehicle and had the side skinned over for a cleaner look. In order to fill the tank I need to move the spare tire out of the way but that is easy to do. The biggest problem is the tank isn't lined so I now have rusty fuel. I bit the bullet a few weeks ago and bought a plastic tank from Mark and will install it later this summer reusing the steel skid plate if I can.

If I had it to do over again I would have bought Marks first, less expensive although it doesn't have a skid plate, will not rust inside and I supported a vendor here on MUD, not a retail store.
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How hard is it to drop the tank? Any issues I should know about. I have to replace my rear quarter panels. Any info would be great
 
I purchased the BTB/Man-A-Fre tank in 2015 and installed it once I removed and disposed of the old stock tank which was rusty and leaky. Here is my experience.

Within several weeks the exterior started to rust where the paint was peeling away. My fault, I should have had it powder coated. I had the filler moved to the rear of the vehicle and had the side skinned over for a cleaner look. In order to fill the tank I need to move the spare tire out of the way but that is easy to do. The biggest problem is the tank isn't lined so I now have rusty fuel. I bit the bullet a few weeks ago and bought a plastic tank from Mark and will install it later this summer reusing the steel skid plate if I can.

If I had it to do over again I would have bought Marks first, less expensive although it doesn't have a skid plate, will not rust inside and I supported a vendor here on MUD, not a retail store.
View attachment 1946558View attachment 1946559
I purchased the BTB/Man-A-Fre tank in 2015 and installed it once I removed and disposed of the old stock tank which was rusty and leaky. Here is my experience.

Within several weeks the exterior started to rust where the paint was peeling away. My fault, I should have had it powder coated. I had the filler moved to the rear of the vehicle and had the side skinned over for a cleaner look. In order to fill the tank I need to move the spare tire out of the way but that is easy to do. The biggest problem is the tank isn't lined so I now have rusty fuel. I bit the bullet a few weeks ago and bought a plastic tank from Mark and will install it later this summer reusing the steel skid plate if I can.

If I had it to do over again I would have bought Marks first, less expensive although it doesn't have a skid plate, will not rust inside and I supported a vendor here on MUD, not a retail store.
View attachment 1946558View attachment 1946559
Damn, hope that doesn’t happen. Just finished cutting all the rust out, hope that doesn’t happen to mine. Who is this “Mark” you speak of, I’m intrigued.
 
Marks Off Road. One of the vendors here on MUD and extremely respected and knowledgeable. Look up www.marksoffroad.net

Dropping the BTB/Man-A-Fre tank isn't that hard, loosen the fill ines and remove four bolts and it will drop out.
 
How hard is it to drop the tank? Any issues I should know about. I have to replace my rear quarter panels. Any info would be great


Aux Tank in the rear?

How difficult, depends mainly on how heavy.

This is my experience, based on NO lift... no lift meant 44 had to be jacked higher, in order for the dropped tank to clear the truck.

1. Drain the tank
2. Disconnect the lines... clearly marking what goes where
3. Disconnect the wires... sender and ground... label them
4. Chock your tires
5. Jack up your truck and secure it on jack stands. Note: I had to make a 2x4 frame to set under the rear sill, to keep 44 high enough to clear the tank. I used my hi-lift jack to raise the truck high enough.
6. Place a floor jack snuggley under the skid plate/tank. Note; I built a frame to place between my floor jack and the skid plate, to keep the tank upfright, as I lowered it.
7. Disconnect all bolts
8 Carefully lower the tank
 
Aux. tank skid plate Gee Whiz information:
The reason Marks tank does not have a skid plate (at least not the very righteous aluminum skid plate that use to be available as an option) is (a) those nylon tanks were laboratory tested stronger than the thinner wall sheet metal tanks, they don't rip apart on the rocks, and (b) because of this few too many were buying the skid plates, soooo Marks supplier had to discontinue manufacturing the skid plates due to sinking far too many $$$ into inventory for far too long. There was actually 1 skid plate sold for every 10 tanks sold.
 
Aux. tank skid plate Gee Whiz information:
The reason Marks tank does not have a skid plate (at least not the very righteous aluminum skid plate that use to be available as an option) is (a) those nylon tanks were laboratory tested stronger than the thinner wall sheet metal tanks, they don't rip apart on the rocks, and (b) because of this few too many were buying the skid plates, soooo Marks supplier had to discontinue manufacturing the skid plates due to sinking far too many $$$ into inventory for far too long. There was actually 1 skid plate sold for every 10 tanks sold.

Interesting bit of information. Thanks.
 

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